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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 15

post #211 of 2955
Nutcracker, do you know if any of the RTWs available for export to the US? Also, for the bespoke pairs, how many fittings are necessary, and how much time needed between each fitting? If one visited Japan say twice a year, and stayed one week per visit, would they be able to get a pair sent to them after the second visit?

Like everyone else, I'm greatly enjoying this thread, by the way. Thank you for your efforts.
post #212 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Nutcracker, do you know if any of the RTWs available for export to the US? Also, for the bespoke pairs, how many fittings are necessary, and how much time needed between each fitting? If one visited Japan say twice a year, and stayed one week per visit, would they be able to get a pair sent to them after the second visit?

Like everyone else, I'm greatly enjoying this thread, by the way. Thank you for your efforts.

For a bespoke pair, it takes a really long time. Often it takes 2-3 fittings with a trial pair session, one week gap between them is optimistic. Surely, if they might fit your slot if they like you, but it is highly unlikely because even the initial stages such as last making will take more than a week.

However, some place also does bespoke shoe without fittings, for those it might be quicker, but highly unlikely .
post #213 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Nutcracker, do you know if any of the RTWs available for export to the US?

Like everyone else, I'm greatly enjoying this thread, by the way. Thank you for your efforts.

Thanks!! In regards to the RTW shoes, I really don't know, but I highly doubt it. If anything, they would probably want to sell shoes in China. Regal shoes are being sold in many Asian countries including China.

For smaller RTW companies, like Miyagi Kogyo, I suspect they are willing to export if they can find a dealer who's interested. In fact, there is a store in NYC called Michael Andrews Bespoke that is listed as a dealer of Miyagi Kogyo brand shoes (from the official page).
post #214 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Also, for the bespoke pairs, how many fittings are necessary, and how much time needed between each fitting? If one visited Japan say twice a year, and stayed one week per visit, would they be able to get a pair sent to them after the second visit?

Many Bespoke makers only do once (assuming they fit ok, and usually at the 2~3 months mark), others do twice or more. Lead time for completion is usually 6 months, busier makers take longer. Rarely do orders require 1 yr or more (like G&G) in Japan.

For example, Saion's Bespoke takes only 6 months to complete, but requires a total of 5 visits (first visit, first fitting after 2 months, second fitting+taking home the trial shoes at 3-1/2 months, bringing back the trial shoes at 4 months, and finally receiving the completed shoes at 6 months).

If you plan to visit twice, and choose a maker that does only 1 fitting, then I say technically yes they should be able to send the shoes to you after the fitting. This is assuming your only fitting session came out fine, and you're willing to go through the trouble of shipping the shoes back if you don't like the final product. I also suspect some makers would be apprehensive with the idea, especially for the initial order.

Many bespoke makers offer full-handmade MTO shoes that requires only initial measuring/fitting with gauge shoes. No fitting session for these order. could be a viable option for you. add911_11 may have been referring to these.

Believe it or not YOHEI FUKUDA offers MTO shoes w/o fitting session, and made to same standard as bespoke. Priced at ¥273,000+ (vs ¥399,000 for his bespoke). check out his website. The "Classic Collection" and the "Heritage Collection" are all available for MTO. Lead time is still 1 year for them.
post #215 of 2955
Your analyst is correct. For time conscious customer, it is advisable to go under full handmade MTO route.

I have yet to try such operation, the full bespoke procedures does take a lot of time.
post #216 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Thanks!! In regards to the RTW shoes, I really don't know, but I highly doubt it. If anything, they would probably want to sell shoes in China. Regal shoes are being sold in many Asian countries including China.

For smaller RTW companies, like Miyagi Kogyo, I suspect they are willing to export if they can find a dealer who's interested. In fact, there is a store in NYC called Michael Andrews Bespoke that is listed as a dealer of Miyagi Kogyo brand shoes (from the official page).

Regal really don't belong in this thread. Maybe 10 years ago they might have deserved a place, but their current offerings are terrible, kind of the Florsheim of Japan.
post #217 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Regal really don't belong in this thread. Maybe 10 years ago they might have deserved a place, but their current offerings are terrible, kind of the Florsheim of Japan.
Looked up regal because I didn't know much about them and.......
post #218 of 2955

Excuse my ignorance - never heard or seen of RTW Florsheim shoe in real life....

 

Who are they comparable to English makers?

post #219 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Regal really don't belong in this thread. Maybe 10 years ago they might have deserved a place, but their current offerings are terrible, kind of the Florsheim of Japan.

Regal makes dress shoes at different price points, and yes I find the styling and quality questionable even in their mid-range shoes.

But they do offer solid, classic styled dress shoes at a higher price point. Regal Tokyo in Ginza offers them, along with a MTO and a Bespoke service.
Regal also has a high-end line (split into a separate brand) called Shetland Fox. Their boutique is in Hibiya, but also available in department stores like Isetan.
post #220 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Looked up regal because I didn't know much about them and.......

I'm posting these again for those who's interested in RTW shoes. From MEN'S EX: World of Hi-end Shoes Vol.5. Please Enjoy!!

open the pics on another window / tab for higher resolution





post #221 of 2955
Please don't keep posting. I cannot afford another pair of shoes. This thread is so full of win.
post #222 of 2955
You are making me think really hard about a lay over at Japan for my trip to Asia late this year...
post #223 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

You are making me think really hard about a lay over at Japan for my trip to Asia late this year...

lol8[1].gif You should hope for the yen to slide even more then.....
post #224 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

I scanned these pics from the past LAST magazine, and took the liberty of translating them.

Atsuta Koji (Atsuta Kutsuten)



A graduate from the Tresham Institute (UK) > worked at Frank Harvey (UK) making custom shoes > hired by Kawamura Prosthetic (Japan) as the chief designer of orthopaedic shoes > most recently worked at Stephano Bemer chiefly as a modelista; before starting his own Bespoke practice in Osaka.

Last making process:

Lasts are made completely from scratch, not from a base last or a rough turned stock. Instead, resin casts are made from plaster molds of the client's feet, and shaped accordingly.


Making of a plaster mold


The completed mold. Resin are poured into this.


Perfect foot imprints in cast foam resin.


The cast imprints are shaped, based on his medical/orthopedic knowledge and an aesthetic sense honed at Bemer's workshop


Custom orthopedic insoles are made for those who require.


The left one with a deep instep was shaped to accommodate an insole. The right one doesn't. The space between the ball is relatively flat.


Check shoes in plastic resin are made by applying/pasting the resin over the last.


(right) The completed last
(center) The check-shoes with insoles and mock heels. 1st test fitting.
(left): Test shoes. The counters are already in. After the final fitting, the shoes are relasted and finished.


The completed pair, and the last made with foam resin.


His only sample shoe adorn the window.


Those living in Osaka are in luck.

Pictures/text taken from LAST Issue 03.

Give 3D printing another 3 years, then you won't need this casting business anymore. You could laser scan the feet, 3D print it in 15 minutes (a hour today?), then you got a complete 3D model of the foot. You can then tweak as much as you want, then rescan, and make as many last as you want, might even able to do some fancy analysis once someone sees a market to write a software for this...
post #225 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post


Give 3D printing another 3 years, then you won't need this casting business anymore. You could laser scan the feet, 3D print it in 15 minutes (a hour today?), then you got a complete 3D model of the foot. You can then tweak as much as you want, then rescan, and make as many last as you want, might even able to do some fancy analysis once someone sees a market to write a software for this...

 

There's already machines/software that does exactly what you said and more.  Except not at a consumer/retail level.

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