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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 133

post #1981 of 2893
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

Thanks nutcracker, how does this compare with Saphir?

I heard from a pro shoeshiner that BB wax polishes don't shine as easily as Saphir. but then BB also has their signature 'High-shine' formula that is supposed to be a fool-proof way to get a mirror shine.

If you want to compare BB vs Saphir price-wise, they are about the same. Columbus (the manufacture) positions these as their high end product, and claims their polishes use as less artificial ingredients/solvents as possible.

The lineup is pretty extensive, going up to a handmade leather trunk filled with goodies that cost $3000 USD+. I've used the stuffs mentioned above, but not their wax polishes.

The 'Collections' shoe cream look quite tempting though. It used to be called 'Aging Cream' and its supposed to contain a high dose of pigments so you can replenish the mottled effect of an antique/museum leather (by finger painting on the leather??). I guess they changed the name to give it a wider appeal (as a general purpose cream).
post #1982 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by VegTan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Buckles look to me very prominent, but this is very beautiful. Most of photos of Kawaguchi-san are real shoes for clients and look pretty good.

The buckles seem to be transplanted from Chrome Hearts^^
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1493985_2.jpg

Or from the same supplier.
post #1983 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Does it really make a difference?

I don't really think it does. In fact, I would be a little leary of putting a conditioner on a leather outsole except under extreme conditions.

FWIW, one of the best soling materials for wading in rocky, boulder strewn rivers is felt. Rubber doesn't come close for gripping wet or algae covered rock. The reason that felt is so good is that it is fibrous. Perhaps it comes down to surface area but each fiber grips individually, conforming to rough surfaces and "catching" on any protrusions no matter how small.

To some extent, leather is the same way--it is a fibrous mat and very good in wet conditions for most people--better than rubber, IMO. The problem with leather is that it wears more quickly in wet conditions. This is not because the leather is dissolving, it is because the moisture softens the bonds between the fibers. Adding a moisturizing creme may very well have the same effect and actually accelerate wear while at the same time...because of the oils and fats...decrease the ability of the leather to gain traction.

If you are going to use a conditioner...on any and any part of fine leather...use something that disappears into the skin--your own skin. If it leaves an oily residue it's no better for the leather than slathering a layer of tallow on your arm would be.

--
Edited by DWFII - 12/5/13 at 7:00am
post #1984 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I don't really think it does. In fact, I would be a little leary of putting a conditioner on a leather outsole except under extreme conditions.

FWIW, one of the best soling materials for wading in rocky , boulder strewn rivers is felt. Rubber doesn't come close for gripping wet or algae covered rock. The reason that felt is so good is that it is fibrous. Perhaps it comes down to surface area but each fiber grip individually conforming to rough surfaces and "catching" on any protrusions no mater how small.

To some extent, leather is the same way--it is a fibrous mat and very good in wet conditions for most people--better than rubber, IMO. The problem with leather is that it wears more quickly in wet conditions. This is not because the leather is dissolving, it is because the moisture softens the bonds between the fibers. Adding a moisturizing creme may very well have the same effect and actually accelerate wear while at the same time...because of the oils and fats...decrease the ability of the leather to gain traction.

If you are going to use a conditioner...on any and any part of fine leather...use something that disappears into the skin--your own skin. If it leaves an oily residue it's no better for the leather than laying down a layer of tallow on your arm would be.

Very well put. I use rejuvinator oil that has good penetration, only once a year.
post #1985 of 2893
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I don't really think it does. In fact, I would be a little leary of putting a conditioner on a leather outsole except under extreme conditions.

FWIW, one of the best soling materials for wading in rocky, boulder strewn rivers is felt. Rubber doesn't come close for gripping wet or algae covered rock. The reason that felt is so good is that it is fibrous. Perhaps it comes down to surface area but each fiber grips individually, conforming to rough surfaces and "catching" on any protrusions no matter how small.

To some extent, leather is the same way--it is a fibrous mat and very good in wet conditions for most people--better than rubber, IMO. The problem with leather is that it wears more quickly in wet conditions. This is not because the leather is dissolving, it is because the moisture softens the bonds between the fibers. Adding a moisturizing creme may very well have the same effect and actually accelerate wear while at the same time...because of the oils and fats...decrease the ability of the leather to gain traction.

If you are going to use a conditioner...on any and any part of fine leather...use something that disappears into the skin--your own skin. If it leaves an oily residue it's no better for the leather than slathering a layer of tallow on your arm would be.

--

Thanks for your insight and advise DW. I notice that after the outsoles recover from the rain (a few days or so), they may look awfully dry with flaky fiber. I was under the impression that overtly dry soles tend to wear faster (or even crack), and the conditioner (or mink oil?) helps replenish the lost moisture??
post #1986 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Thanks for your insight and advise DW. I notice that after the outsoles recover from the rain (a few days or so), they may look awfully dry with flaky fiber. I was under the impression that overtly dry soles tend to wear faster (or even crack), and the conditioner (or mink oil?) helps replenish the lost moisture??

Well, to some extent that will depend on the quality of the leather. But I don't see any problem with an occasional application of Bick4 or Lexol, as long as you let the leather dry a day or so before walking it again.

FWIW, in over 40 year, I've never worn anything but leather outsoles...in all kinds of weather and with high heels (western boots) and never had any problems with either traction or drying and cracking. And, in fact, my experience and the experience of customers has been that treated outsole don't wear any longer and probably, usually, wear out faster. I even experimented with siliconing my outsoles for a while.

Of course, I tend to favour good quality outsoling and I can replace my outsoles whenever I deem necessary. But beyond that the logic just doesn't support the notion that, all other things being equal, conditioning an outsole with heavy creams or oils helps much, if at all.

No matter what we talk about here...with regard to shoes or leather...and the Traditions notwithstanding, there is a logic and a rationale for every aspect, every cause and effect, and every choice makers have settled on over the centuries. It's not magic, really it isn't. The explanation is out there.
post #1987 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Yohei Fukuda "Ebony" from the Heritage Collection
Full brogue oxfords with imitation brogues
Black Calf with Antique Finish

Tints of greens and browns are exposed to create a delicate nuance. Quite stunning..







and of course, the sublime sole.....


from Yohei Fukuda tumblr


magic shoes...fantastic

post #1988 of 2893
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Well, to some extent that will depend on the quality of the leather. But I don't see any problem with an occasional application of Bick4 or Lexol, as long as you let the leather dry a day or so before walking it again.

FWIW, in over 40 year, I've never worn anything but leather outsoles...in all kinds of weather and with high heels (western boots) and never had any problems with either traction or drying and cracking. And, in fact, my experience and the experience of customers has been that treated outsole don't wear any longer and probably, usually, wear out faster. I even experimented with siliconing my outsoles for a while.

Of course, I tend to favour good quality outsoling and I can replace my outsoles whenever I deem necessary. But beyond that the logic just doesn't support the notion that, all other things being equal, conditioning an outsole with heavy creams or oils helps much, if at all.

No matter what we talk about here...with regard to shoes or leather...and the Traditions notwithstanding, there is a logic and a rationale for every aspect, every cause and effect, and every choice makers have settled on over the centuries. It's not magic, really it isn't. The explanation is out there.

Appreciate your insight! I'll try not to stress too much about keeping my soles looking pretty smile.gif
post #1989 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Appreciate your insight! I'll try not to stress too much about keeping my soles looking pretty smile.gif

There you go! fing02[1].gif

Sometimes I think folks just don't "get" shoes...the whole concept and genius of shoes. I mean outsoles are meant to be worn out and replaced...and, at bottom, meant to be replaced many times with as little fuss as possible.
post #1990 of 2893
Thread Starter 


Our favorite(?) men's style magazine, MEN'S EX has a new issue out today!

Not too much on shoes, but there's a spread introducing 2 of our favourite stores in Asia, The Armoury and Kevin Seah Bespoke!
post #1991 of 2893
DW, what's your say on vintage leather soles? I've taken to smacking a layer or two of shoe cream or conditioner on old pairs to rejuvenate the leather, which must have dried up entirely after, say, thirty years of idling in someone's closet. Dry leather cracks faster, after all.
post #1992 of 2893

Il Micio Di Hidetaka Fukaya

 

Take a 360° virtual tour of his workshop with google street view.

post #1993 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

DW, what's your say on vintage leather soles? I've taken to smacking a layer or two of shoe cream or conditioner on old pairs to rejuvenate the leather, which must have dried up entirely after, say, thirty years of idling in someone's closet. Dry leather cracks faster, after all.

VRavio,

Again use something "light." If it feels like it might be good for your skin it might be good for the leather. Beyond that, if it has dried up that much nothing will bring it back. If there's some life left in the leather, then a conditioner such as Lexol or Bick4 will suffice. Oils or creams heavy in oil will not revive dead leather and will suffocate good leather.
post #1994 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by VegTan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Fascinating! Looks like quite a few tanneries from overseas are exhibiting too!

Thanks for the info!

Unfortunately, only some leathers come from Lineapelle

Sorry!

http://kokontrip.exblog.jp/21418994/
e0072660_15244217.jpg
post #1995 of 2893
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post



Our favorite(?) men's style magazine, MEN'S EX has a new issue out today!

Not too much on shoes, but there's a spread introducing 2 of our favourite stores in Asia, The Armoury and Kevin Seah Bespoke!

 

How does one acquire copies of Men's Ex in the US?

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