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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 130

post #1936 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

The waist/heel tapering is part exaggerated by the very strong Cuban heel and part exaggerated by comparing it with a much larger shoe with outside squared inside beveled waist.  The left shoe also has seemingly higher arch as well.

Not sure if that's a Cuban heel or just high heel...  Very interesting choice indeed.

The small one looks like 1/4 the size of the larger one (with a traditional robust French heel). The heel height looks the same. I wonder if it was a pain for the shoemaker to pull it off.
Beautifully finished though! smile.gif
post #1937 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post


Gianni, welcome to the world of Japanese artisans.  They are the only people that I know in this world that will take everything the Nth degree.  Please start from the 1st page and be prepared to be amazed.  Check out TYE Shoemaker especially.  Even his test shoes will put most other cordwainers' actual shoes to shame.  Nutcracker deserves an award or something just for this thread. 

Barky, too kind of a word!!

I've tried going through the entire thread. Almost made me barf scrolling over and over... eek.gif

Gianni, for convenience, check out this link to all the shoemaker visits!
post #1938 of 2750

Hey NC, just got back.  Just enough time to go to Hankyu Mens and Maker's Shirt.  No Lobbs. Hankyu was so so, mostly low and mid tier stuff.  A fair bit of middling Italians/Spanish. Only Union Imperial's selection was large for the Japs.  English representation was poor, with a full brogue C&J burg cordo being the highlight.  G&G got a total of 3 shoes. EG maybe 10 but half of it was Berkeley/Chelsea and a handful of bog standard Tricker's.  Oh and that Berluti boutique with its patinaed club chairs. Got of a bunch of Saphirs and a couple of buttons down though. Gonna plan better next time round and don't let friends tag along.   

post #1939 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post
 


Gianni, welcome to the world of Japanese artisans.  They are the only people that I know in this world that will take everything the Nth degree.  Please start from the 1st page and be prepared to be amazed.  Check out TYE Shoemaker especially.  Even his test shoes will put most other cordwainers' actual shoes to shame.  Nutcracker deserves an award or something just for this thread. 

Thank you for your welcome message ... this thread is really cool. I see many artisans very good ... and if I want to do I do not know what a bespoke craftsman from. What's the best for you?

post #1940 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post
and if I want to do I do not know what a bespoke craftsman from. What's the best for you?

Ha ha, NC is the resident expert here.  But if you ask me, my favourites are TYE, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi.  Yanagimachi-san has a very generous MTO offer (with custom fitting) twice a year which I hope to be a part of soon.  However, the above 3 has a very delicate style (you don't know whether to wear them or put it on a pedestal:D) which might not suit you if you are into the more flamboyant Italian designs.  Ryota Hayafuji is also very good and is based in Germany.  And the best bespoke deal ever should be Taizo Emori with prices starting from a ridiculous US$1.5k.  Here's a taste of Jap Shoe p0rn for you :

 

Marquess

Hiro Yanagimachi

AppleMark

TYE

***

below are only  test shoes

AppleMark*

the final completely new actual shoe as chosen by the client

and finally, our own NC's bespoke by Atushi Qnai (Il Quadrifoglio Kobe), a wholecut with fake broguing with hidden seam :

 

post #1941 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Ha ha, NC is the resident expert here.  But if you ask me, my favourites are TYE, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi.  Yanagimachi-san has a very generous MTO offer (with custom fitting) twice a year which I hope to be a part of soon.  However, the above 3 has a very delicate style (you don't know whether to wear them or put it on a pedestal:D ) which might not suit you if you are into the more flamboyant Italian designs.  Ryota Hayafuji is also very good and is based in Germany.  And the best bespoke deal ever should be Taizo Emori with prices starting from a ridiculous US$1.5k.  Here's a taste of Jap Shoe p0rn for you :

Marquess
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Hiro Yanagimachi




AppleMark



TYE
*
*
*

below are only  test shoes
AppleMark
*

the final completely new actual shoe as chosen by the client




and finally, our own NC's bespoke by Atushi Qnai (Il Quadrifoglio Kobe), a wholecut with fake broguing with hidden seam :





Nice introduction! Thanks Barky! I just happen to live in Japan, hence the easy access to the goodies!! smile.gif

What amazes me is that there are enough variety and depth of talent in Japan right now, that consumers (like us) have the luxury to choose the shoemaker(s) that appeals the most to them, whether it is the style, personality, price, philosophy etc.....
post #1942 of 2750

Apologies if this question is redundant, but I couldn't find it while searching through the thread. My question is about lasting - I remember hearing when I was first getting in to shoes that some of the mainstream makers (particularly Alden, if I remember), made specific lasts for the Japanese market that had a higher instep. If they do, I presume this would mean that the majority of Japanese makers have similar high-instep lasts, yes? The reason I ask is that for most dress shoes I try, D widths fit me perfectly, but due to my instep I have a rather large gap between the uppers at the tongue.

post #1943 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviantfish View Post

Apologies if this question is redundant, but I couldn't find it while searching through the thread. My question is about lasting - I remember hearing when I was first getting in to shoes that some of the mainstream makers (particularly Alden, if I remember), made specific lasts for the Japanese market that had a higher instep. If they do, I presume this would mean that the majority of Japanese makers have similar high-instep lasts, yes? The reason I ask is that for most dress shoes I try, D widths fit me perfectly, but due to my instep I have a rather large gap between the uppers at the tongue.

Yes comparatively to US and European RTW shoes, Japanese shoes tend to have high instep and wider ball girth to accommodate typical Japanese feet. However, the trend nowadays (among a handful of nicer brands) is to make the lasts resemble those offered by premium European brands that a lot of Japanese have been preferring. I have tried Miyagi Kogyo's RTW shoes (very English in style) before, and despite having a very low instep and narrow feet, I found the fit to be quite snug across the board.

I'm not aware that Alden makes specific lasts that are exclusive to Japan.
post #1944 of 2750
Modified last is semi exclusive to Japan?
post #1945 of 2750
Modified + cordovan
= Japanese market exclusive

I think they did not change last shape for Japan market.
post #1946 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Modified last is semi exclusive to Japan?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Modified + cordovan
= Japanese market exclusive

I think they did not change last shape for Japan market.

From my observation about half of Alden models being offered in stores are Modified Last.


Anatomica in Paris (and also in Japan) carries some of the best makeups of ML Shell Cordovan shoes.

I'm not so knowledgable about the geopolitics of Modified Last though biggrin.gif
post #1947 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Mr. Satoshi Kuroki, from John Lobb Paris, will be holding a Pattern Making seminar (for advanced students in shoemaking) and a Design seminar (beginner, advanced) at Benchwork Studies on 12/28 (Sat). A rare opportunity, and seats are limited (12 each). The Pattern class will be cutting a double monk design. I'm not sure if there is a charge to participate.

Benchwork Study is run by Ms. Yukiko Bassett Okawa, Kuroki's fellow classmate from the Cordwainers College.

I saw this announcement from their website blog. Please inquire BWS for more info.

http://www.benchmade.jp/home/index2.html
post #1948 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

A bespoke flap over briefcase made by Bellago (Kobe), with leather sourced from Spigola (to match the shoes).



I assume the shoes are similar this one



COL Blog

more I look at this work of art and more I fall in love ... fantastic.

post #1949 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Mr. Satoshi Kuroki, from John Lobb Paris, will be holding a Pattern Making seminar (for advanced students in shoemaking) and a Design seminar (beginner, advanced) at Benchwork Studies on 12/28 (Sat). A rare opportunity, and seats are limited (12 each). The Pattern class will be cutting a double monk design. I'm not sure if there is a charge to participate.

Benchwork Study is run by Ms. Yukiko Bassett Okawa, Kuroki's fellow classmate from the Cordwainers College.

I saw this announcement from their website blog. Please inquire BWS for more info.

http://www.benchmade.jp/home/index2.html

!!!

That sounds awesome. Is he visiting home or taking JLP orders?
post #1950 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

!!!

That sounds awesome. Is he visiting home or taking JLP orders?

I think he's just visiting home (back from Northampton). Although I heard that he continues to work as an (bespoke) outworker on his side, I don't think he's involved in the JLP's Bespoke operation.
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