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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 120

post #1786 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Il Quadrfoglio Bespoke Order #2

So here it is, the completed pair.

Split Toe Derbies in Moss Green Calf
Norvegese Construction
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark
Robust double soles for this pair

AppleMark
A pleasant surprise gift from Qnai san. A shoehorn made with matching leather and stitching


Norvegese Stitching

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Comparing with the first pair (wholecut oxford) on the same pair of lasts:

AppleMark
AppleMark

AppleMark
AppleMark


My thanks to Qnai san for another outstanding work!

Oh nooooo shoe horn has chain stitching and shoes don't!!!! How can you live with yourself?
post #1787 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


So here it is, the completed pair.

AppleMark

Goodness gracious - I presume, you will be calling these shoes "Pinocchio" -

How the nose has grown! - biggrin.gif

post #1788 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Il Quadrfoglio Bespoke Order #2

So here it is, the completed pair.

Split Toe Derbies in Moss Green Calf
Norvegese Construction
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark
Robust double soles for this pair

AppleMark
A pleasant surprise gift from Qnai san. A shoehorn made with matching leather and stitching

Norvegese Stitching


Comparing with the first pair (wholecut oxford) on the same pair of lasts:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark
AppleMark

AppleMark
AppleMark


My thanks to Qnai san for another outstanding work!

Without questioning what is undoubtedly impeccable craft on the whole cuts, to my eye there is simply something off with them. Maybe it is just that my image of an oxford shoe is that it should be striving for simple elegance, with just a note of stylistic differentiation, and the faux brogueing, and to a lesser extent the chiselled toe is fighting against the tight waist and closed lacing so the shoe ends up being neither one thing or the other. Whereas with the blucher all the elements seem to be pulling in the same direction.
post #1789 of 2965
Quote:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Il Quadrfoglio Bespoke Order #2

So here it is, the completed pair.

Split Toe Derbies in Moss Green Calf
Norvegese Construction

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark

AppleMark
Robust double soles for this pair

AppleMark
A pleasant surprise gift from Qnai san. A shoehorn made with matching leather and stitching


Norvegese Stitching


Comparing with the first pair (wholecut oxford) on the same pair of lasts:

AppleMark
AppleMark


AppleMark
AppleMark


My thanks to Qnai san for another outstanding work!

Beautiful shoes.  Qnai-san definitely has a talent. 

 

Line from the side view look quite different to me, not just a toe but an angle of insteps. Split toe is more flat.  Is this just on photo?

post #1790 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


So here it is, the completed pair.

AppleMark

Goodness gracious - I presume, you will be calling these shoes "Pinocchio" -

How the nose has grown! - biggrin.gif


You think that is a long nose? Have you been to Tokyo?
post #1791 of 2965
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Goodness gracious - I presume, you will be calling these shoes "Pinocchio" -

How the nose has grown! - biggrin.gif

lol8[1].gif

Yeah, those two pairs are essentially on the same last, but I'm amazed at how completely different they look just by tinkering with the toe/vamp proportion (which I'm happy I did!!!)
post #1792 of 2965
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Oh nooooo shoe horn has chain stitching and shoes don't!!!! How can you live with yourself?

I actually went back and forth between the chain stitching and the plain lines over the months..... perhaps that drove Qnai san crazy and he just gave me both.... worship.gif
post #1793 of 2965
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Beautiful shoes.  Qnai-san definitely has a talent. 

Line from the side view look quite different to me, not just a toe but an angle of insteps. Split toe is more flat.  Is this just on photo?

The angle is a bit different, but you are correct!! The last was adjusted, including an even lower instep!!!
post #1794 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


lol8[1].gif

Yeah, those two pairs are essentially on the same last, but I'm amazed at how completely different they look just by tinkering with the toe/vamp proportion (which I'm happy I did!!!)

 

I like the change!!  Nice shoes.  Very Lattanzi-esq except for the single stitched side stitch.  What does the shoe looks like from the back?

 

Without the decreased size of the apron, the testing shoes has the apron that's too big for English styled (or EG/G&G/JL styled) NST but too small for Italian/French styled NST.

post #1795 of 2965
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

I like the change!!  Nice shoes.  Very Lattanzi-esq except for the single stitched side stitch.  What does the shoe looks like from the back?

Without the decreased size of the apron, the testing shoes has the apron that's too big for English styled (or EG/G&G/JL styled) NST but too small for Italian/French styled NST.

Thanks Chogal! I wasn't so sure about the test shoes' aprons too, so Qnai san suggested to pull them all the way up. Came out pleasantly Italian looking.


From the back:

AppleMark
AppleMark
post #1796 of 2965
A brave but nice choice, NC. That green is real nice.
post #1797 of 2965
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

The Japanese are amazing. How artful. I am taken back especially by the thoughtful details on the sole. The areas where the nails are where I have the most wear on my shoes. I would never have thought to put nails there-I'm sure those nails will increase the longevity of the shoe. Bravo, NC and IQ. Superb taste and craftsmanship. 

Thanks! Yes it was very thoughtful of Qnai. I just told what type of shoes I wanted (split toes), and the color. I just followed his suggestions and voila! I must give all kudos to Qnai san!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Wow! Amazing shoes nutcracker!

Thanks!! fing02[1].gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

A brave but nice choice, NC. That green is real nice.

I was contemplating olive color for my first pair (ended up being mahogany). I really like the Moss Green (from Ilcea) though! Kinda looks black without light.
post #1798 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

I'm digging order #2 beautiful, and unique.
extremely beautiful.
post #1799 of 2965
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

I was contemplating olive color for my first pair (ended up being mahogany). I really like the Moss Green (from Ilcea) though! Kinda looks black without light.

Ilcea? damn, looks like I am out of luck.

post #1800 of 2965
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Ilcea? damn, looks like I am out of luck.

Yes the Ilcea company went bankrupt, but they still seem to be conducting sales as usual. I assume they are selling off their remaining stock? or perhaps bankruptcy doesn't necessarily mean that they stopped all operations.

I also suspect there are plenty of Ilcea leathers already circulating in the market to last a while.
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