or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 112

post #1666 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JermynStreet View Post

Again, great work, NC. I have never seen cordovan shine like that. I wonder how different the process is from Horween. Also, do you know from where they source the hides? I thought horses were native to Eurasia only. The only reason we have them here in the States is because the Spanish brought them over. Is there a large horse population in Japan? I ask because I wonder if the species of horse hides they are using in Japan differ greatly from those here in the States and that is what is responsible for the difference in the sheen.

Shinki's equine hides are sourced from Europe (mostly France). I believe so are Horween's.
post #1667 of 2955

NC, that's ridiculously cheap.  Will definitely try to commission a pair next time I am in Tokyo.  What's his procedure like? Does he require all fittings on-site or can it be done remotely?  

post #1668 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

NC, that's ridiculously cheap.  Will definitely try to commission a pair next time I am in Tokyo.  What's his procedure like? Does he require all fittings on-site or can it be done remotely?  

Yes, Emori san is incredibly generous when it comes to pricing. I recall him saying that 150K is the most he's willing to pay for any shoes (as a consumer), so, why charge his clients more (cordovan / exotics have upcharges, obviously). He also keeps the price at bay by working alone, and he inherited the atelier (hence no need to pay rent).

He prefers the fitting done on site (his atelier, or at the World Footwear Gallery), followed by a trial fitting in 3 months or so. He does seem to have a number of overseas clients.
post #1669 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Yes, Emori san is incredibly generous when it comes to pricing. I recall him saying that 150K is the most he's willing to pay for any shoes (as a consumer), so, why charge his clients more (cordovan / exotics have upcharges, obviously). He also keeps the price at bay by working alone, and he inherited the atelier (hence no need to pay rent).

He prefers the fitting done on site (his atelier, or at the World Footwear Gallery), followed by a trial fitting in 3 months or so. He does seem to have a number of overseas clients.

 

Damn, that price gets pretty near to me being able to convince my wife (still with quite a lot of difficulty involved) that I can afford a pair. And I like his style as much as, if not more than, any of the makers I've seen on this thread...

post #1670 of 2955
I recall him saying that 150K is the most he's willing to pay for any shoes (as a consumer), so, why charge his clients more

That's is so Japanese smile.gif.

He prefers the fitting done on site (his atelier, or at the World Footwear Gallery), followed by a trial fitting in 3 months or so.

Would prefer if the 2nd fitting can be done remotely but will see. Does he speaks any English?
post #1671 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Damn, that price gets pretty near to me being able to convince my wife (still with quite a lot of difficulty involved) that I can afford a pair. And I like his style as much as, if not more than, any of the makers I've seen on this thread...

Yes, I would say his style is very 'masculine'

Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

I recall him saying that 150K is the most he's willing to pay for any shoes (as a consumer), so, why charge his clients more

That's is so Japanese smile.gif.

He prefers the fitting done on site (his atelier, or at the World Footwear Gallery), followed by a trial fitting in 3 months or so.

Would prefer if the 2nd fitting can be done remotely but will see. Does he speaks any English?

I don't think he speaks English, but he does have a number of clients from overseas.....
post #1672 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post
Yes, I would say his style is very 'masculine'
 

 

Well, that's, err... definitely me then. :nodding:

 

post #1673 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Ryota Hayafuji, Shoemaker

For the past few days, I had an opportunity to meet shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji. With 15 years of training and working under some of the best known names in shoemaking (Dimitri Gomez, Paul Wilson, and Marini), Hayafuji finally opened his own shoemaking workshop last year in Munich, Germany. Many would consider him to be among the most accomplished Japanese shoemakers in the world, and like his close cohorts Emiko Matsuda (F&S) and Hide Fukaya (Il Micio), he chose to pursue his career in Europe. He does return to Japan twice a year to take orders at Old Hat Tokyo/Osaka. I had an opportunity to share a dinner table with him, and I must say I was positively enamoured by listening to him share his wealth of knowledge and (often hilarious) anecdotes. It's surprising to see how little information is available (online) on him, but I also realize that's how he would like it. He seems perfectly content to being a shoemaker serving his quiet neighbourhood in Munich, away from the hustle and bustle of Paris, London, or even Tokyo.

The core of Hayafuji style is essentially English, but over the years he digested the elements of French, Italian, and also German orthopedie into a style that is uniquely his. Perhaps as a reflection of his character, the shoes aren't particularly flashy or expressionistic. Hence I sense that novices (like me) would easily overlook some of the extraordinary details that would otherwise make connoisseurs jump up and down. They are definitely more than meets the eyes, and pictures don't do them justice. I highly recommend anyone interested, and living in the Eurosphere, to seek him out in Munich.

AppleMark
A noble oxford shoe with a blind welt construction.

AppleMark
A glamorous sole!

AppleMark
Whole cut oxford with imitation brogues. The tassels give some extra touch.

AppleMark
Apron-front derby: an homage to a classic Parisian style. Double welted.

AppleMark
Captoe Oxford with a certain vintage feel.


The outstitching are done impossibly near the edge, a detail often seen in classic American shoes.

AppleMark
Hayafuji's Last

AppleMark
The One and Only Ryota Hayafuji


My thanks to Hayafuji-san and the folks @ Old Hat Tokyo for their hospitality

Old Hat Tokyo
Edited by nutcracker - 9/25/13 at 4:13am
post #1674 of 2955
That noble oxford is a thing of beauty.
post #1675 of 2955

Excellent thread, nutcracker. Question: how much is an RTW shoe from some of these guys?

post #1676 of 2955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Excellent thread, nutcracker. Question: how much is an RTW shoe from some of these guys?

Thanks! smile.gif

Most of the makers hitting this thread are bespoke / full order only ($1.5K~4K USD). Some of them do MTO shoes that cost about half ($1K~$2K USD).
post #1677 of 2955
Thread Starter 
After ignoring repeated requests asking me to do so uhoh.gif, I've finally compiled all of my workshop visits, trunk show reports, translations, and shopping guides into this single post (and I almost barfed looking through the entire thread)
Hopefully one day, I can post them on a user friendly website/blog, but here it is for now, in the chronological order.

Enjoy folks! and there's more to come! (Spigola show report etc..) fing02[1].gif


Workshop Visits / Trunk Show Reports
Isetan 'JAPAN SENSES' Exhibition
" Marquess
" Corno Blu
" Yohei Fukuda
SAION
Il Quadrifoglio
Il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Experience Part 1
Il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Experience Part 2
gentille & 79
Marquess
Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop Part 1
Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop Part 2
Tetsujiya
Clematis Part 1
Clematis Part 2
o.e.
Bottega Tramoda
Misawa & Workshop
Yuki Shirahama Bottier
Ingenuity by Kamioka
TYE Shoemaker
Emori Custom Shoemaker
Ryota Hayafuji
Spigola MTO Shoes

Other Visits and Reports
Edoya
Tokyu Hands
Brift H
Kutsumigaki Honpo

Shoe Shopping Guide
Aoyama
Ginza Part 1
Ginza Part 2
Isetan
Nihonbashi
Harajuku Part 1
Harajuku Part 2
Roppongi
Marunouchi Part 1
Marunouchi Part 2
Taiwan


Translations & Scans
Marquess Interview Translation
Masaru Okuyama Interview Translation
MEN'S EX MTO Ordering Experience Translation
MEN'S EX Spigola Catalog Translation
Atsuta Kutsuten Scan
Saion Catalog Scan

MEN'S EX Japanese Shoemakers Brand Catalog Translation
MEN'S EX East Tokyo Shoe Walk Translation
MEN'S EX Shoe Polishing Methods by Brift H / Maestro Translation
LAST Koji Suzuki Interview Translation
MEN'S EX Shoe Related Material Translations


edit: This post is now linked on my signature!
Edited by nutcracker - 9/28/13 at 9:32am
post #1678 of 2955
wow, that is some work! Thanks
post #1679 of 2955
Nutcracker, can you also put that info on your thread starting post, because as this thread grows, can be hard to find a post.

edit, just realised that one can't edit a post after 2 weeks, thanks for letting me know, nutcracker. smile.gif
Edited by wurger - 9/26/13 at 3:34pm
post #1680 of 2955
Hey guys!

Do any of you know about Carmina's other retailer in Seoul, Joshua? Been having difficulty searching for their website (if they have any). I don't think it's proper to ask this in the Unipair thread that's why I'm asking it here.

Thanks.

Byron
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread