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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 103

post #1531 of 2912
Think about it, there are more Japnese brick shops that stock genuine English shoes than the motherland.

Mr. Nutcracker, you are absolutely right on fine watches and cars. However, is there a particular reason why Japanese like fine stuff so mcuh (e.g. Azabu tailor or Grand Seiko)?

In comaprison to Hong Kong, people do like fine stuff here, however not many people are willing to get into the industry. Although this is changing slowly.

In UK, Most of the shoemarker's apprentice are either Japanese, Romanian or French (very rare), surely there is something about Japanese and craftsmanship (e.g. Old Sony Walkman or television)
post #1532 of 2912
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Think about it, there are more Japnese brick shops that stock genuine English shoes than the motherland.

Mr. Nutcracker, you are absolutely right on fine watches and cars. However, is there a particular reason why Japanese like fine stuff so mcuh (e.g. Azabu tailor or Grand Seiko)?

In comaprison to Hong Kong, people do like fine stuff here, however not many people are willing to get into the industry. Although this is changing slowly.

In UK, Most of the shoemarker's apprentice are either Japanese, Romanian or French (very rare), surely there is something about Japanese and craftsmanship (e.g. Old Sony Walkman or television)

I am inclined to think that Japan`s luxury market (and taste) is simply more mature than, lets say Hong Kong or Taiwan. Theres simply more stuffs that have been imported for a longer period of time ( probably since the 70`s when Japan saw an economic boom), and the connoisseurs` developed a certain kind of taste and preference over time, possibly for British stuffs?. South Korea, for example, has been catching up very quickly over the past decade or so. I`ve heard from a few Japanese (from the menswear industry) that S.Korea is the place to be right now if you like Classic Italian fashion. Why Korea and Italy? I don`t know but it happened that way. smile.gif

Why are there so many shoemakers in Japan today? I think the Japanese shoe industry was already quite big to begin with, and when the outsourcing (to overseas) began, a shift towards high-quality shoes production began. I say only in the past 2 decades or so, did we see a surge of interest in handmade shoes, especially by the efforts of those craftsmen who studied abroad, like Koji Suzuki, Yamaguchi (Guild) etc... Thats why I think there are lots of younger bespoke makers in 30`s and below, who were probably inspired by the early success of Suzuki and others and thus chose to take a similar path to study abroad and going independent afterwards.

In terms of quality, I am personally inclined to think that yes, there is something about the Japanese culture that helps cultivate the meticulous attention to detail. This is true for the culinary arts, engineering, crafts etc.... and I think it positively applies to shoemaking.


I can ask a similar question...Why are Romanians so awesome at making shoes?? The answer is probably quite complex too.
post #1533 of 2912
This thread has provided the best tidbits of Styleforum for me since its beginning. I can't give you a menswear Nobel, nutcracker, but I'll raise a whisky shot for your and your family's health tomorrow.
post #1534 of 2912
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post
 The guy I know who is a big wig in a daibutsu wears bespoke suits, an Audemars Piguet watch, drives a nice Mercedes, and wears rubber soled shoes that look like they come from ABC Mart.

Daibutsu is a giant bhudda. This monk wears a suit, drives a Merc, and wears an AP!!??

post #1535 of 2912
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


I am inclined to think that Japan`s luxury market (and taste) is simply more mature than, lets say Hong Kong or Taiwan.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Theres simply more stuffs that have been imported for a longer period of time ( probably since the 70`s when Japan saw an economic boom), and the connoisseurs` developed a certain kind of taste and preference over time, possibly for British stuffs?. South Korea, for example, has been catching up very quickly over the past decade or so. I`ve heard from a few Japanese (from the menswear industry) that S.Korea is the place to be right now if you like Classic Italian fashion. Why Korea and Italy? I don`t know but it happened that way. smile.gif

Why are there so many shoemakers in Japan today? I think the Japanese shoe industry was already quite big to begin with, and when the outsourcing (to overseas) began, a shift towards high-quality shoes production began. I say only in the past 2 decades or so, did we see a surge of interest in handmade shoes, especially by the efforts of those craftsmen who studied abroad, like Koji Suzuki, Yamaguchi (Guild) etc... Thats why I think there are lots of younger bespoke makers in 30`s and below, who were probably inspired by the early success of Suzuki and others and thus chose to take a similar path to study abroad and going independent afterwards.

In terms of quality, I am personally inclined to think that yes, there is something about the Japanese culture that helps cultivate the meticulous attention to detail. This is true for the culinary arts, engineering, crafts etc.... and I think it positively applies to shoemaking.


I can ask a similar question...Why are Romanians so awesome at making shoes?? The answer is probably quite complex too.

 

I think the prime reason is that the socioeconomic structure in Japan did not change much for centuries with still old money and old political families roaming around Japan.  But over the Chinese civil war and Cultural Revolution completely reshuffled the decks and tastes.  Same thing in Taiwan to a lesser extend.

post #1536 of 2912
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


I am inclined to think that Japan`s luxury market (and taste) is simply more mature than, lets say Hong Kong or Taiwan.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Theres simply more stuffs that have been imported for a longer period of time ( probably since the 70`s when Japan saw an economic boom), and the connoisseurs` developed a certain kind of taste and preference over time, possibly for British stuffs?. South Korea, for example, has been catching up very quickly over the past decade or so. I`ve heard from a few Japanese (from the menswear industry) that S.Korea is the place to be right now if you like Classic Italian fashion. Why Korea and Italy? I don`t know but it happened that way. smile.gif

Why are there so many shoemakers in Japan today? I think the Japanese shoe industry was already quite big to begin with, and when the outsourcing (to overseas) began, a shift towards high-quality shoes production began. I say only in the past 2 decades or so, did we see a surge of interest in handmade shoes, especially by the efforts of those craftsmen who studied abroad, like Koji Suzuki, Yamaguchi (Guild) etc... Thats why I think there are lots of younger bespoke makers in 30`s and below, who were probably inspired by the early success of Suzuki and others and thus chose to take a similar path to study abroad and going independent afterwards.

In terms of quality, I am personally inclined to think that yes, there is something about the Japanese culture that helps cultivate the meticulous attention to detail. This is true for the culinary arts, engineering, crafts etc.... and I think it positively applies to shoemaking.


I can ask a similar question...Why are Romanians so awesome at making shoes?? The answer is probably quite complex too.

 

I think the prime reason is that the socioeconomic structure in Japan did not change much for centuries with still old money and old political families roaming around Japan.  But over the Chinese civil war and Cultural Revolution completely reshuffled the decks and tastes.  Same thing in Taiwan to a lesser extend.

 

 

I think it is a valid point.   I think there is a continuing base to appreciate finer things.  There is a common story that when the government tried to stop luxurious goods consumption (back in Edo-era), people are using nice fabrics in inner side of clothing which can be shown only occasionally.

 

Talking about black suit, thing.  If you are in finance (client facing), accounting, law business.   Dark grey or blue with white shirt is a norm.  I think it is a universally the case. No real "black" suit.  It is for funeral and wedding.

post #1537 of 2912
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

 The guy I know who is a big wig in a daibutsu wears bespoke suits, an Audemars Piguet watch, drives a nice Mercedes, and wears rubber soled shoes that look like they come from ABC Mart.
Daibutsu is a giant bhudda. This monk wears a suit, drives a Merc, and wears an AP!!??

shog[1].gif zaibatsu, sorry I'm a moron.

Although I do know some pretty rich monks.
post #1538 of 2912

Fang, I would finish by this. I tried to find the data at work today but could not so far. Anyhow, in 2011, we used some official governmental data, which in jest said - the percentage of Japanese having int'l passport is smaller than that of citizens of US. Given the number of population being 3 to 1 in favor of USA, it means the pool of Japanese having the opportunity to travel abroad is far smaller (once again if you take out Tokyo and it looks much worse). Majority (50%+) of trips abroad, counted by type not by number of people travelled, was business and official. Most common destinations for travel abroad for leasure then, and I think now, were Korea, Guam, Saipan, HK, and I do not remember the exact order. You could travel to South Korea for 200 USD on a three day tour, while taking the shinkansen to Osaka and back plus the hotel would cost you twice. So, my point is that when you say you have friends traveling abroad, in most people mind, it could sound like globetrotting to Europe or S. America, when in fact most people travel very cheaply and very closely. Going to places like S. Korea or Guam, you never leave Japan, in fact. In Seoul, there was only one place we found where we could not order in Japanese.  

 

I agree with Nutcracker that Japan is the biggest market for luxurious goods, but I think, I could not find the exact data, but as far as I remember, it was measured by volume in sales not in sold items, which in my mind should not be taken so highly, since almost everything is much more expensive than in other countries. Most things have a great mark-up. The last thing I remember checking was a pair of Allen Edmonds which cost me 300 USD plus shipping plus 6,000 JPY import tax which came cheaper than the 60,000 I needed to pay here in Japan for the same model. (or it was probably 70,000, I do not remember correctly) 

 

It is true that this year department stores claim they have improved their suit sales, there was even an article in Nikkei on that, but as someone in the know remarked - it is only true because last two years the sales were so meager. 

post #1539 of 2912

Great discourse.  NC's point of economic boom is spot on.  IMO, at least in Asia, consumption of luxury goods largely follows these booms.  Look at China, if they can keep up their growth rates, they are very likely to surpass Japan. 

 

Also, like NC said, there's always been a culture striving for excellence or perfection in Japan.  You see this in all kind of stuffs, be it arts and crafts, produce, cuisine etc.  However, the one negative, IMO, with Japan is its inward looking tendency.  You have all these fantastic artisanal products that would rival or more likely exceed their western counterparts and yet it is virtually inaccessible to the rest of the world.     

post #1540 of 2912
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Great discourse.  NC's point of economic boom is spot on.  IMO, at least in Asia, consumption of luxury goods largely follows these booms.  Look at China, if they can keep up their growth rates, they are very likely to surpass Japan. 

Also, like NC said, there's always been a culture striving for excellence or perfection in Japan.  You see this in all kind of stuffs, be it arts and crafts, produce, cuisine etc.  However, the one negative, IMO, with Japan is its inward looking tendency.  You have all these fantastic artisanal products that would rival or more likely exceed their western counterparts and yet it is virtually inaccessible to the rest of the world.     

Indeed. It certainly requires some effort to help bring them out to the world, but it certainly seems worth it (look at theArmoury)
post #1541 of 2912
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

This thread has provided the best tidbits of Styleforum for me since its beginning. I can't give you a menswear Nobel, nutcracker, but I'll raise a whisky shot for your and your family's health tomorrow.

Thanks for your kind words, buddy. I really appreciate your thought! cheers.gif
post #1542 of 2912
Thread Starter 
New for the Fall season, Demi Boots by Miyagi Kogyo, available @ World Footwear Gallery


The one behind is in Shinki`s cordovan.

WFG is having a `Season-in Anniversary Festival` from 8/17 to 9/8, to showcase their new models. All new models receive a 5% discount.

World Footwear Gallery
post #1543 of 2912

Hi NC,  is it me or does the Shinki cordo has the museum calf kind of splotches?  Is this how Shinki cordo normally looks like or a special finish? 
 

post #1544 of 2912
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Hi NC,  is it me or does the Shinki cordo has the museum calf kind of splotches?  Is this how Shinki cordo normally looks like or a special finish? 

 

Yes they kinda do (not a special finish), and probably has to do with the way they are dyed. As far as I know, they are not intentionally mottled to an antique finish like Ilcea`s Museo.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 80
Shinki Cordovan swatches
post #1545 of 2912
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Yes they kinda do (not a special finish), and probably has to do with the way they are dyed. As far as I know, they are not intentionally mottled to an antique finish like Ilcea`s Museo.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 80
Shinki Cordovan swatches


Interesting.  Do you happen to have any photo of a seasoned Shinki cordo shoes to see how the patina developed?

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