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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 10

post #136 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

it does make sense now you mention it, though I personally did not like that particular shoe. Is JL doing all right in Taiwan, I pass by the one in Bella Vita quite a few times, as far as I can tell, hardly anyone ever went in.

lol8[1].gif
Yeah, Bella Vita is full of window shoppers. She said they're doing well, especially from 'young' customers in their 30's with growing taste for finer things.

Last time I was there, I saw 2 Japanese men buying 2 pairs of shoes each (I say Taiwan JL is 15% cheaper than Japan). I hope they knew that JL shoes in Taiwan has a default EE width (wide fit). I believe JL shoes sold in Japan are standard E width.
Knowing some Japanese prefer tighter fits, I hope they won't be disappointed later. facepalm.gif
post #137 of 3052
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

lol8[1].gif
Yeah, Bella Vita is full of window shoppers. She said they're doing well, especially from 'young' customers in their 30's with growing taste for finer things.

Last time I was there, I saw 2 Japanese men buying 2 pairs of shoes each (I say Taiwan JL is 15% cheaper than Japan). I hope they knew that JL shoes in Taiwan has a default EE width (wide fit). I believe JL shoes sold in Japan are standard E width.
Knowing some Japanese prefer tighter fits, I hope they won't be disappointed later. facepalm.gif

Interesting, I thought there are more Asian with wider foot, especially around the toe. I personally would prefer all manufacture offer wider width (guess it doesn't help that one of my left foot is shorter and wider, while the right foot is longer and slimmer satisfied.gif )

My dad know a guy who used to retail for Testoni in Taiwan before Testoni decide to have their own presence. He had to show Testoni his own feet to convince the Italian to come up with either a different last or offering more width. That was more than 10 years ago.
post #138 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Interesting, I thought there are more Asian with wider foot, especially around the toe. I personally would prefer all manufacture offer wider width (guess it doesn't help that one of my left foot is shorter and wider, while the right foot is longer and slimmer satisfied.gif )

My dad know a guy who used to retail for Testoni in Taiwan before Testoni decide to have their own presence. He had to show Testoni his own feet to convince the Italian to come up with either a different last or offering more width. That was more than 10 years ago.

I've asked a Japanese shoemaker about this. I told him, 'Asians have fat, wide feet.' but he thinks its more a matter of length than width. He considers asians to have generally 'shorter' feet than caucasians, hence proportion-wise, its naturally stockier. I guess he means asians with longer feet will naturally be narrower, and not massively wide?

Yet Even among similar height asians, i think japanese feet are a bit slimmer than folks in taiwan. Thats from my observations. Perhaps its more lifestyle and environmental factors than genetics, not sure
Edited by nutcracker - 4/8/13 at 6:43pm
post #139 of 3052
I prefer the lighter colored llama plain toe derby as the toe (seems slightly square; usually hate soft square models but this one seems to have been nailed) and toe box as a whole looks supremely balanced; while the darker plain toe the chisel is too prevalent and in my opinion chisel toes do much worse on derbies then oxfords.
post #140 of 3052
Which ones make the best RTW?
post #141 of 3052
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

fistbump.gif
Yes there is a whole lot of them. But I think what makes Japanese bespoke scene different is that there is so much diverse styles available (English, Italian, French, Austrian, and local Japanese) just in Tokyo alone
thumbs-up.gif

quite a few of the bespoke makers offer handmade MTO shoes with lasts to choose from. Usually don't include a fitting session, and cost 1/2 or less of full bespoke. I suppose you can order on spot, and have it shipped once done. On top of my head, Saion, Spigola, Guild (Hall & Marks), Clematis does it

Love what I have seen from Saion,, maybe I should get a MTO pair.

Good thread
post #142 of 3052
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Misawa Noriyuki's brogues: Viennese Style (with a lil bit of Materna's DNA)





The boots look like the ones Materna has on display in their shop, did he apprentice with them?
post #143 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

Love what I have seen from Saion,, maybe I should get a MTO pair.

Nice to see a forum vet on the thread

Here's some articles I translated on Saion, if you or anyone else may be interested.
also check out the full catalogue I posted here:



SaionCUSTOM.jpg
post #144 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

The boots look like the ones Materna has on display in their shop, did he apprentice with them?

yes
post #145 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Which ones make the best RTW?

Check out this thread for reference.

Within the same price range, I say there's little difference between RTW brands in terms of fit and finish. I suppose it comes down to how they look on you, and how they fit you. I like Miyagi Kogyo and Central Shoes, both priced in the ¥50K~¥60K range. They look good and fit me very well.

There are Japanese RTW shoes priced over ¥100K. but for that price, you have an option to go for handmade MTO shoes from a number of Bespoke makers like Spigola
post #146 of 3052
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

handmade MTO shoes from a number of Bespoke makers like Spigola

I have seen some via the Armory, It does look pretty good to my eye.
post #147 of 3052
anyone can indicate how much would a Spigola MTO cost?
post #148 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgo View Post

anyone can indicate how much would a Spigola MTO cost?

SPIGOLA prêt-à- porter (MTO) starts from ¥108,000 JPY. One piece Plain toes ¥129,000 JPY. Full brogues ¥135,000 JPY. In today's exchange, that will be $1090, $1300, and $1365 USD respectively.


fyi, for those who are in Tokyo right now, Spigola is having a bespoke show at United Arrows Harajuku over this weekend.
post #149 of 3052
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


SPIGOLA prêt-à- porter (MTO) starts from ¥108,000 JPY. One piece Plain toes ¥129,000 JPY. Full brogues ¥135,000 JPY. In today's exchange, that will be $1090, $1300, and $1365 USD respectively.

Great thread Nutcracker, ta much.  Suzuki's shoes are out of this world good to look at.  Any comment on Spigola construction or materials? Hand lasted? hand welted? thx

post #150 of 3052
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

Great thread Nutcracker, ta much.  Suzuki's shoes are out of this world good to look at.  Any comment on Spigola construction or materials? Hand lasted? hand welted? thx

fing02[1].gif

They are hand lasted and handsewn welted. The soles are machine stitched. I was told that Mr. Koji Suzuki has his hands on all of the shoes.

The selection of grained/textured/shrink leather is the best I've seen from any Japanese bespoke maker.
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