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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 89

post #1321 of 3073

I drop by and asked to insert thin layer of insock to my MTO shoes.  I did not take a picture but saw beveled like dainite sole which is quite impressive.

Koji's grey croc loafers are even nicer seeing in person.  

post #1322 of 3073
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

I drop by and asked to insert thin layer of insock to my MTO shoes.  I did not take a picture but saw beveled like dainite sole which is quite impressive.
Koji's grey croc loafers are even nicer seeing in person.  

yes I think I saw those too. Not sure if they are shaped/glued to the contour of the sole, or if they are pre-shaped that way? Either way, I would like to see more of those from other makers too.
post #1323 of 3073
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Was anyone @ the Spigola Show in theArmoury?

Here are some pics courtesy of thearmoury tumblr


Love the casual crocs

 

Koji wears these shoes regularly.

Well aging nod[1].gif

 

http://www.rrozestt.co.jp/

post #1324 of 3073
Thread Starter 
A Visit to Kamioka Showroom / Kutsumigaki Honpo, Tokyo (preview!)

Today, I dropped by the new showroom of Kamioka, the Taiwanese manufacturer of the Shinsho branded shoes that are available only in Japan. Some of you may also know Kamioka as the OEM manufacturer for several USA based (and SF approved) brands. Unfortunately, I was there on my way home, and only had my phone on hand (to snap some pics). I will return next week for an in depth report. The boutique (located on the lobby floor of a 5 star hotel in downtown Tokyo), shares the space with Kutsumigaki Honpo, a shoeshine parlor manned by the renowned 'Shoeshiner Ken'.


Shinsho shoes. They're quite an interesting bunch of RTW shoes, priced ¥39K~. I'll write more on them next week.


Among the RTW shoes, I was particularly impressed with this pair of loafers. A last reminiscent of EG 888, French calfskin, skin stitches, and closed channeled soles..... for ¥42,000 ($415).


The soles are shaped and finished quite nicely.

AppleMark
Handmade shoes (yes those are made with baby crocs).....Available for MTO soon


More handmade shoes samples.


Shoeshiner Ken! I'll be back next time for a detailed photo shoot of his polishing procedure.

Many thanks to Ms.Chiba (Kamioka) and Shoeshiner Ken!

Kamioka homepage
Kutsumigaki Honpo homepage
Shoeshiner KEN's blog
post #1325 of 3073
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

A Visit to Kamioka Showroom / Kutsumigaki Honpo, Tokyo (preview!)

Today, I dropped by the new showroom of Kamioka, the Taiwanese manufacturer of the Shinsho branded shoes that are available only in Japan. Some of you may also know Kamioka as the OEM manufacturer for several USA based (and SF approved) brands. Unfortunately, I was there on my way home, and only had my phone on hand (to snap some pics). I will return next week for an in depth report. The boutique (located on the lobby floor of a 5 star hotel in downtown Tokyo), shares the space with Kutsumigaki Honpo, a shoeshine parlor manned by the renowned 'Shoeshiner Ken'.


Shinsho shoes. They're quite an interesting bunch of RTW shoes, priced ¥39K~. I'll write more on them next week.


Among the RTW shoes, I was particularly impressed with this pair of loafers. A last reminiscent of EG 888, French calfskin, skin stitches, and closed channeled soles..... for ¥42,000 ($415).


The soles are shaped and finished quite nicely.

AppleMark
Handmade shoes (yes those are made with baby crocs).....Available for MTO soon


More handmade shoes samples.


Shoeshiner Ken! I'll be back next time for a detailed photo shoot of his polishing procedure.

Many thanks to Ms.Chiba (Kamioka) and Shoeshiner Ken!

Kamioka homepage
Kutsumigaki Honpo homepage
Shoeshiner KEN's blog

Thanks once more for the fantastic posts nc.
The web store only goes up to size 9, did you notice if they had larger sizes in the store?
post #1326 of 3073
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Thanks once more for the fantastic posts nc.
The web store only goes up to size 9, did you notice if they had larger sizes in the store?

Thanks Fang!

Opps, I didn't pay attention to their sizes...I can ask them when I visit again next week. They're actually considering an MTO program with size/material selection, similar to what Miyagi Kogyo MTO does, so hopefully they'll have a wider range of size availability then.
post #1327 of 3073
Thread Starter 
Pattern Cutting, Clicking & Closing by Marquess





If I recall correctly, those are Impala leather by Carl Freudenberg. I handled the hide in person, and the texture was simply amazing.
I also love how they opted for no medallion to showcase the natural grain. I envy the owner drool.gif


Marquess blog
post #1328 of 3073
Now that's an interesting picture. It shows that Shoji and his wife are almost more English than the English.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post



In English bespoke shoemaking (this does no apply to ready-to-wear) the leather underneath a toe cap or a heel counter is usually not cut away. This Adelaide with toe cap and counter is essentially a whole-cut (extending from the tip of the toe to the back of the heel all the way) with the cap and the counter laid over to form a double layer of leather in those sections. The silver lines show the outlines of the additional pieces.

By contrast, must shoemakers outside of England cut the underlying leather away, leaving just an overlap of 3/8" (9 mm). Here is a sample by Marcell Mrasan (Koronya). The shoe is a different style (full-brogue Derby) but the principle remains. (The top row are the pieces for the outer leather, the bottom two pieces are the lining.) See how the leather underneath the toe cap is cut away; the same applies for the counter.

I do not know about the French (I cannot recall having ever seen a pattern by one of of the French bespoke makers.) But the Continentals do cut the leather routinely away. (As do English factory-made shoes.) For them it is a shameful waste of materials, while English bespoke makers believe they can get a better, smoother toe (although possibly a smidgeon bulkier) by avoiding a cut and doubly skyved edge.

The preference of Japanese shoemakers might depend on where they have learned their trade.
post #1329 of 3073

il Quadrifoglio Penny Loafer made from Ostrich Leg Leather & Calf

very exotic and unique texture

 

http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com/

 

 

http://piacerenuzzo.blogspot.jp/

post #1330 of 3073
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

il Quadrifoglio Penny Loafer made from
 Ostrich Leg Leather & Calf

very exotic and unique texture

http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com/




That's quite a stunning accent piece
post #1331 of 3073
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Now that's an interesting picture. It shows that Shoji and his wife are almost more English than the English.
In English bespoke shoemaking (this does no apply to ready-to-wear) the leather underneath a toe cap or a heel counter is usually not cut away. This Adelaide with toe cap and counter is essentially a whole-cut (extending from the tip of the toe to the back of the heel all the way) with the cap and the counter laid over to form a double layer of leather in those sections. The silver lines show the outlines of the additional pieces.

Its really something to hear that come from an Englishman, but evn more so, thanks for shsring your fascinating observation!
post #1332 of 3073
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Its really something to hear that come from an Englishman........

By the way, I'm not English, but I have been living in England for a very long time.
post #1333 of 3073
nutcracker, are people gearing up for the sales? anything available in king sizes? (UK 9.5 and up?)
post #1334 of 3073
nutcracker, are people gearing up for the sales? anything available in king sizes? (UK 9.5 and up?)
post #1335 of 3073
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

nutcracker, are people gearing up for the sales? anything available in king sizes? (UK 9.5 and up?)

The sales are actually gearing towards the end (except for Isetan, which starts on 7/17)

I've looked around, and shoe sales (in general) have been quite uninspiring. Unfortunately, not many choices for big sizes too (I asked Sanyo, Otsuka, and World Footwear Gallery for Miyagi Kogyo and Central Shoes). Isetan tends to have a wider range of sizes for sale, so I'll keep an eye on that.
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