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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 9

post #121 of 2750
Bespoke Makers those Llama plain toe derbies are beautiful! Been following your blog from very early on and it's great keep it up!
post #122 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post


    




Koji Suzuki aka Spigola apron front derby and whole cut derby



These shoes are simple design but distinctive style.



Standard design often represents the workmanship.



I'm not usually drawn to plain toe derbies, but Spigola's plaintoes (or whole cut derby) are very tempting, especially with textured leathers....
post #123 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Bespoke Makers those Llama plain toe derbies are beautiful! Been following your blog from very early on and it's great keep it up!

I appreciate it very much.I hope to continue our good relationship in the future. 

How about these shoes?  

Spigola goatskin whole cut derby 

 

post #124 of 2750
So far I like the chocolat brown split toe best of all shown derbies.
Bespoke Makers, just bookmarked your tumblr, thanks for sharing all these pictures with us!
post #125 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

I appreciate it very much.I hope to continue our good relationship in the future. 

How about these shoes?  

Spigola goatskin whole cut derby 

 

Hello Bespoke Maker - posting some more wholecut samples from your collection would be fantastic.

 

Thanks

post #126 of 2750
Does Styleforum have a thread of the year award? I demand one for nutcracker.
post #127 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makoto Chan View Post

Derbies are infinitely more popular for most businessmen, as they're easier to slip on and off. That's an interesting observation, though! I imagine that because it's unusual, a nice oxford shoe is all the more luxurious and special.

This is a great thread. Just catching up. Maybe this show will come down to Kansai.

Well it depends. More so probably in Japan and the UK where oxford is the quintessential dress shoe. In US and other parts of Europe I feel a derby is equally formal.I'm not sure why you would call an oxford something special and luxurious, for me its just a preference which cannot be equated in terms of luxury. IMO
post #128 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Koji Suzuki has been active for 12 yrs or so, and I remember way back, he had so much backorders, he stopped taking new orders for 2 yrs or so?
More recently, I've read that he became a director of footwear design in a big name Fashion brand (they will soon launch the collection designed by Suzuki)
I talked with a bespoke maker about this. Clients often choose a perceived staple design for their first order (usually a classic pair of oxfords), and go for more casual shoes like derbies/loafers etc... for their 2nd and 3rd
At least this seems to be the case in Japan.

Here is a pic of a nice derby that I happened to snap at a trunk show.


AppleMark
Il Quadrifoglio, 'German' derby

The fact that Japanese Bespoke makers are pushing for the first staple shoe in oxford is a testament to their skill and finesse. I have heard its the other way round in may parts of the globe.
I like the derby above but not the back counter in croc and the heel, just me and my opinion...

keep the pictures coming.
post #129 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post


    




Koji Suzuki aka Spigola apron front derby and whole cut derby



These shoes are simple design but distinctive style.



Standard design often represents the workmanship.


that wholecut derby is awesome.
post #130 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

I appreciate it very much.I hope to continue our good relationship in the future. 
How about these shoes?  




Spigola goatskin whole cut derby 

 
that last seems too sharp in that photo.
post #131 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Does Styleforum have a thread of the year award? I demand one for nutcracker.


icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gifAGREE.

post #132 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post


that wholecut derby is awesome.


I agree - the toe on those are amazing...

post #133 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

Well it depends. More so probably in Japan and the UK where oxford is the quintessential dress shoe. In US and other parts of Europe I feel a derby is equally formal.I'm not sure why you would call an oxford something special and luxurious, for me its just a preference which cannot be equated in terms of luxury. IMO

+1

yes, depends on the culture
in Taiwan loafers are the king. loafers everywhere smile.gif if you want shoes for special occasion, you go for a more expensive loafers (lke crocs)

You remember the JLP Bespoke 'World Cities' edition (or something like that?). I talked with the JL manager in Taipei (she designed the TAIPEI bespoke loafer), and she chose the loafer to represent the 'essence of Taiwan footwear' for the exact reason I wrote above. quite fascinating
post #134 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Does Styleforum have a thread of the year award? I demand one for nutcracker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post

icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gifAGREE.

Let's try to keep this thread will keep busy til the end of the year first lol8[1].gif
post #135 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

+1

yes, depends on the culture
in Taiwan loafers are the king. loafers everywhere smile.gif if you want shoes for special occasion, you go for a more expensive loafers (lke crocs)

You remember the JLP Bespoke 'World Cities' edition (or something like that?). I talked with the JL manager in Taipei (she designed the TAIPEI bespoke loafer), and she chose the loafer to represent the 'essence of Taiwan footwear' for the exact reason I wrote above. quite fascinating

it does make sense now you mention it, though I personally did not like that particular shoe. Is JL doing all right in Taiwan, I pass by the one in Bella Vita quite a few times, as far as I can tell, hardly anyone ever went in.
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