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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 76

post #1126 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

The description says they're wholecut shoes. I suppose those calf pieces / straps were stitched over the suede upper.

There will be a seam, if not an entire heel piece (linen is not as easily manipulated as leather), hidden under the beige 'counter strap'.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Fascinating shoes.

Or a pair of sandals that's gone wrong? biggrin.gif
post #1127 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

There will be a seam, if not an entire heel piece (linen is not as easily manipulated as leather), hidden under the beige 'counter strap'.
Or a pair of sandals that's gone wrong? biggrin.gif

lol8[1].gif to me they look like a thick mustache.
I'm sure there must be a precedent to this design, but still, quite cleverly put together.
post #1128 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

ICHO made by TYE shoemaker



Bespoke Linen & Box Calf Spectator Shoes



ICHO on FB






linen, interesting, how did it keep the shape
post #1129 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

linen, interesting, how did it keep the shape

Shoe uppers made from fabric get normally an an additional 'backer' to give the material more body and a firmer handle. This might be an a thin leather, glued over the entire surface of the fabric or a heat-fused interlining (as in tailoring).
post #1130 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
foot the coacher 
designed by 
Toshinosuke Takegahara


Gallery of Authentic








My kinda shoes.
post #1131 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Shoe uppers made from fabric get normally an an additional 'backer' to give the material more body and a firmer handle. This might be an a thin leather, glued over the entire surface of the fabric or a heat-fused interlining (as in tailoring).

good knowledge, thanks!
post #1132 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post


good knowledge, thanks!

 

Agree !!!
post #1133 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Did you get to visit thearmoury? A pretty nice store, I got my fox umbrella there smile.gif

Spigola goes for ¥126,000~ (incl. 5% vat) at the Tokyo Trunk Show. That is equivalent to around 830 GBP / 9,970 HKD in today's exchange.

Costs about ¥20K less if ordered direct at Suzuki's Kobe atelier. A round trip from Tokyo to Kobe (via train) costs more than that, so I guess I can't complain fing02[1].gif

 

£800 GBP decent value for Japan. I'll need to prep before I travel next. Was only in HK for 4 days and dying to get home - bloody 32C everyday but felt like 50C with the rain and humidity. Don't know how people where nice shoes & suits in those condition. Had to shower every 2 hours..... Didn't have time to visit any shops...
post #1134 of 2861
Thread Starter 
A Visit to Brift H, Tokyo

Since opening its doors 5 years ago, Brift H (founded by the shoe shiner extraordinaire Yuya Hasegawa) has become a model/standard for countless of other shoeshine parlors to imitate. I've been their happy customer for quite some time (for shines and repairs), and this time I brought my camera along with my shoes to polish.

AppleMark

A bar-like setting with counter seats (with complementary drinnks). Cozy and stylish


Saphirs and Tapirs. They also carry custom Edoya brushes.


Over the counter: Brift H's original cream polishes

AppleMark
Brift H's mascot, a fox

www.brift-h.com
Brift-H FB
post #1135 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Shoe Shine @ Brift H

The fabulous Kitami-san (store manager) worked his magic on my Il Quadrifoglio (worn lightly, but they needed a high shine badly smile.gif)
I managed to take some pictures to show the (almost) entire process. Enjoy and learn! (picture heavy!!)

AppleMark
Unlacing the Shoes


The interior/lining is conditioned using a light conditioning cream (Colonil 1909)


Sponge tipped trees (by Hartmann) are inserted


Dusting off with a Horsehair bush


Freshening up the surface with a light cleaning lotion

AppleMark
Brift H's original cream polish in mahogany


Hand rubbed....


Forcing the cream into the pores with a bristle brush


Excess cream removed / buffed to a moderate shine.

AppleMark
Now the magic begins. Polish time!

AppleMark
Wax polishes (Saphir) are rubbed in with bare fingers

AppleMark
Wrapped securely around the fingers


A tap of water, and a smidgen of polish


Working on it


Nice shine, but not nearly finished


At the 90% mark, the goat hair brush kicks in to smooth out the streaks


With a few more rounds of brushing and rubbing, it's almost done


Slick and shiny!


Finally, some oil for the soles

AppleMark
Done! The whole process (+chatting) took 40 minutes

my thanks to Mr. Kitami for the awesome shine!

www.brift-h.com
Brift-H FB
post #1136 of 2861

my god, that shine just like metallic colour

with lighting effect that mahogany turns like bordeaux

magnificent work

post #1137 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

A Visit to Brift H, Tokyo
AppleMark
Brift H's mascot, a fox

cool looking store, though that fox looks like a cat to me...
post #1138 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Shoe Shine @ Brift H

The fabulous Kitami-san (store manager) worked his magic on my Il Quadrifoglio (worn lightly, but they needed a high shine badly smile.gif)
I managed to take some pictures to show the (almost) entire process. Enjoy and learn! (picture heavy!!)

AppleMark
Unlacing the Shoes


The interior/lining is conditioned using a light conditioning cream (Colonil 1909)


Sponge tipped trees (by Hartmann) are inserted


Dusting off with a Horsehair bush


Freshening up the surface with a light cleaning lotion

AppleMark
Brift H's original cream polish in mahogany


Hand rubbed....


Forcing the cream into the pores with a bristle brush


Excess cream removed / buffed to a moderate shine.

AppleMark
Now the magic begins. Polish time!

AppleMark
Wax polishes (Saphir) are rubbed in with bare fingers

AppleMark
Wrapped securely around the fingers


A tap of water, and a smidgen of polish


Working on it


Nice shine, but not nearly finished


At the 90% mark, the goat hair brush kicks in to smooth out the streaks


With a few more rounds of brushing and rubbing, it's almost done


Slick and shiny!


Finally, some oil for the soles

AppleMark
Done! The whole process (+chatting) took 40 minutes

my thanks to Mr. Kitami for the awesome shine!

www.brift-h.com
Brift-H FB

awesome, so what's the "bristle brush" you're talking about after dusting with horsehair brush. I always just use the same horsehair brush for dusting then make sure it's clean before I use it for buffing. Also do you see a real difference between goat hair brush and horsehair brush? I don't think I can find goathair brush easily in the states. Great shine by the way, but at 40 minutes a pair is not what I would normally do consider the size of my collection...
post #1139 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

awesome, so what's the "bristle brush" you're talking about after dusting with horsehair brush. I always just use the same horsehair brush for dusting then make sure it's clean before I use it for buffing. Also do you see a real difference between goat hair brush and horsehair brush? I don't think I can find goathair brush easily in the states. Great shine by the way, but at 40 minutes a pair is not what I would normally do consider the size of my collection...

Pig bristles brush. The guy used it after the cream polish was applied. It's kinda tough and springy, and are supposed to force the cream polish into the pores, while removing the excess.

Goat hair brushes are much softer than horsehair. He used the brush (with a lil water on it) for the final buffing. It really seemed to eliminate the streaks/swirls left by hand polishing, but I'm sure it needs some practice. Colonil sells one, and are available through ebay? not sure. I think a lambswool mitten does an equally good job.

BAL WORKS, another fine shoe repair shop in Tokyo, uses similar (but not the same) Edoya brushes as Brift H, but they don't include bristle brushes in their regimen.

I've also seen old school shoe shiners who only use pig bristle brushes and some rags to get some serious shine.

Yeah, one horsehair brush (and maybe some rags for polishing) should be adequate for maintaining shoes.
Personally, I only use a brush (horsehair) for dusting, and use a cloth/rag for the rest (same rag for polishing and buffing). Takes 5 minutes or so. I'm getting too lazy to do a high shine (I rarely use a wax polish), so that's all I really need.
post #1140 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Pig bristles brush. The guy used it after the cream polish was applied. It's kinda tough and springy, and are supposed to force the cream polish into the pores, while removing the excess.

Goat hair brushes are much softer than horsehair. He used the brush (with a lil water on it) for the final buffing. It really seemed to eliminate the streaks/swirls left by hand polishing, but I'm sure it needs some practice. Colonil sells one, and are available through ebay? not sure. I think a lambswool mitten does an equally good job.

BAL WORKS, another fine shoe repair shop in Tokyo, uses similar (but not the same) Edoya brushes as Brift H, but they don't include bristle brushes in their regimen.

I've also seen old school shoe shiners who only use pig bristle brushes and some rags to get some serious shine.

Yeah, one horsehair brush (and maybe some rags for polishing) should be adequate for maintaining shoes.
Personally, I only use a brush (horsehair) for dusting, and use a cloth/rag for the rest (same rag for polishing and buffing). Takes 5 minutes or so. I'm getting too lazy to do a high shine (I rarely use a wax polish), so that's all I really need.

yea I rarely use wax unless I am attending a wedding or something, mostly cream these days.
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