Originally Posted by shoreman1782
Hm, don't know what to say. I take the high slide out (have been shooting 400 speed film on overcast days), set the ASA/ISO, take a reading using the grid (not sphere) b/c I'm taking it from where I'm shooting rather than facing back at the camera from the subject. Move the dial to reflect the reading, check out the aperture/shutter combinations, select one that makes sense (usually been selecting based on the aperture I want, usually around f8), set the camera, and shoot.
This shot was taken at a higher fstop (f11 maybe). Don't recall the shutter at the moment, although I have it in my notes. This is a scan, brightened up in Lightroom; was even muddier.
Just looking at the photo, this is at minimum 3 stops underexposed. Even 4. Unless you wanted the guy on the surfboard to be black.
It's all in reading light and knowing how to use the meter. Possibly your shutter speeds are off and your meter readings are wrong too.
Well, there's a vid on youtube which shows how to use your meter and it seems overly complex.
Another thing to remember when you are shooting negative film, it's nearly impossible to overexpose it. About 5 stops over for consumer film and 8-10 stops for pro films. Ektar is more sensitive of correct exposure, but it will be fine when overexposed by 5 stops.
If you are not sure, give it more light, totally opposite of DSLR or slide film. That's why you should not use DSLR for metering negative film. It doesn't like being underexposed and you will get the results you posted. The f stops, shutter speed and iso don't mean anything, since I don't know what the light was like. I don't keep record of anything. I can tell you from my photos if I used the lens stopped down or wide open. If I under exposed it or overexposed it. If I do any of this 2, it means I metered wrong.
In that photo, where did you point the meter? At the dark parts or bright parts of the image? Reflective meter will make whatever part of the scene you pointed it at, 18% grey. So if you pointed it at nice and sunny highlights, your shadows will be black.
With negative film, you would want to point the reflective meter at the shadows. If you wanted the man to be nice and brightly exposed, you would have to point it at his shaded side. But he's too far...
The work around for it is to use incident metering. Which I use 90% of the time. You don't have to be where the guy is standing out in the sea. All you have to do is be in the same light as he is.
It looks like you were on a beach. The same sunlight was falling on you and the surfer. Identical light. What you do is point your meter 180 degrees of where your camera will point and meter. In this case I would turn around 180 degrees from my target, put the meter under my chin and meter there, like a portrait. Making sure I don't block the light with my hand etc...
This technique works as long as you are in the same light, could be sun, could be shadow etc...