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***SW&D Photography Thread*** - Page 36

post #526 of 619
Yes, can't help you with that, sorry. Nice pic anyway. Reminded me of this one...

jFKx3fQ.jpg

... which I thought was square as well, but eh... not really. smile.gif
post #527 of 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lirum View Post

Why would you want to shoot with 6500K? 

You mentioned light color doesn't matter if you set the WB to match. I agreed with you on that. My artificial light temperature is 5500K.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoreman1782 View Post

^Thanks for the fix, and yes, I must've cropped it a touch. Still, the original was underexposed; would love to get a handle on what I'm doing wrong with the meter and/or camera!

What's that old saying? Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Shore if you meter for the shadows you're apparent underexposure issue might go away or become less of an issue.
post #528 of 619




post #529 of 619
Awesome shah!
post #530 of 619
Thread Starter 
Shah and shore holdin it up!!!
post #531 of 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoreman1782 View Post

Hm, don't know what to say. I take the high slide out (have been shooting 400 speed film on overcast days), set the ASA/ISO, take a reading using the grid (not sphere) b/c I'm taking it from where I'm shooting rather than facing back at the camera from the subject.  Move the dial to reflect the reading, check out the aperture/shutter combinations, select one that makes sense (usually been selecting based on the aperture I want, usually around f8), set the camera, and shoot.

This shot was taken at a higher fstop (f11 maybe). Don't recall the shutter at the moment, although I have it in my notes. This is a scan, brightened up in Lightroom; was even muddier.



Just looking at the photo, this is at minimum 3 stops underexposed. Even 4. Unless you wanted the guy on the surfboard to be black.
It's all in reading light and knowing how to use the meter. Possibly your shutter speeds are off and your meter readings are wrong too.

Well, there's a vid on youtube which shows how to use your meter and it seems overly complex.

Another thing to remember when you are shooting negative film, it's nearly impossible to overexpose it. About 5 stops over for consumer film and 8-10 stops for pro films. Ektar is more sensitive of correct exposure, but it will be fine when overexposed by 5 stops.

If you are not sure, give it more light, totally opposite of DSLR or slide film. That's why you should not use DSLR for metering negative film. It doesn't like being underexposed and you will get the results you posted. The f stops, shutter speed and iso don't mean anything, since I don't know what the light was like. I don't keep record of anything. I can tell you from my photos if I used the lens stopped down or wide open. If I under exposed it or overexposed it. If I do any of this 2, it means I metered wrong.

In that photo, where did you point the meter? At the dark parts or bright parts of the image? Reflective meter will make whatever part of the scene you pointed it at, 18% grey. So if you pointed it at nice and sunny highlights, your shadows will be black.

With negative film, you would want to point the reflective meter at the shadows. If you wanted the man to be nice and brightly exposed, you would have to point it at his shaded side. But he's too far...

The work around for it is to use incident metering. Which I use 90% of the time. You don't have to be where the guy is standing out in the sea. All you have to do is be in the same light as he is.

It looks like you were on a beach. The same sunlight was falling on you and the surfer. Identical light. What you do is point your meter 180 degrees of where your camera will point and meter. In this case I would turn around 180 degrees from my target, put the meter under my chin and meter there, like a portrait. Making sure I don't block the light with my hand etc...

This technique works as long as you are in the same light, could be sun, could be shadow etc...
post #532 of 619
Has anyone picked up the fuji xt1?
post #533 of 619
Thread Starter 
WHAT are you thinking of dropping the XE1 gang? We know where you live
post #534 of 619
BUT look at how cool the xt1 is shog[1].gif its incredible, I handled one the other day
post #535 of 619
it's nowhere near as beautiful as the x-e1/e2 series though cool.gif

waiting for some zeiss to arrive . does anyone here else use M-mount lenses ? am finding it is better to invest in lenses and treat the bodies as the interchangeable upgrades once in a while as value depreciates so much faster for electronics than for such impeccible optics + metal combo
post #536 of 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post

it's nowhere near as beautiful as the x-e1/e2 series though cool.gif

waiting for some zeiss to arrive . does anyone here else use M-mount lenses ? am finding it is better to invest in lenses and treat the bodies as the interchangeable upgrades once in a while as value depreciates so much faster for electronics than for such impeccible optics + metal combo

That's the way to do it. Enjoy that Zeiss lens too. Awesome glass.
post #537 of 619

some shots i took today and the other day that i thought were cool

 

 

not sure if i like it more or not flipped (Click to show)

post #538 of 619
voigtlander 40/1.4 , so nice at night to have all those extra fstops but it still has that typical voigtlander look to it (not a bad thing, necessarily)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

i feel there is something of a contrast-y pop to these zeiss
maybe i'm just imagining things

zeiss distagon t* 35/2 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

zeriss planar t* 50 f2 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Edited by the shah - 3/9/14 at 7:49pm
post #539 of 619
Some BW 35mm film....

12878834774_e43b46cf04_z.jpg
Restaurant by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

12878828894_08250f5f4d_z.jpg
Restaurant by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

12878823754_bc3f16e840_z.jpg
Restaurant by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr
post #540 of 619

sun finally came out :thumbs-up:

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