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***SW&D Photography Thread*** - Page 34

post #496 of 644
Few photos from my trip to Japan. Taken with Hasselblad and trusty old school film:

12745859903_d662eb8e1d_z.jpg
Fushimi Inari by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

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Gion by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

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Kiyomizudera by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

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Rock garden by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr
post #497 of 644

Those a superb.

post #498 of 644
I love Kyoto.
post #499 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post

Those a superb.

Thanks, I'm trying my best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClambakeSkate View Post

I love Kyoto.

It's a great place, I wish I had more time there to explore it. I think few years should be enough smile.gif
post #500 of 644
Thread Starter 
I want a medium format camera with a square crop and I can't afford a hassy. What can I do???
post #501 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by g transistor View Post

I want a medium format camera with a square crop and I can't afford a hassy. What can I do???

get an alpa12 cool.gif
post #502 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by g transistor View Post

I want a medium format camera with a square crop and I can't afford a hassy. What can I do???

There are lots of options, most MF cameras have square crop. You can start with something cheap and terrible Holga, it will set you back $25 or so. But it can take some nice and moody photos. The whole lomography movement is based around them.

If you want something between lomo and decent camera, with a crappy lens and blurry photos, you can pick up lubitel 166 cheaply.

If you want something that will make good photos, you could go for a Yashica 124G. They are good, reliable and have nice optics. It's a TLR. It all depends on your budget. You can get Hasselblad for $800 with one lens and back.

You can also look at Pentacon Six.

If you want great zeiss glass, if you are lucky you can pick up rolleiflex 3.5 for great prices. So look around. Or the much cheaper rolleicord version.

If you want really great camera, for not much money, you can also look at 6x7 format (10 shots per roll instead of 12) You can take a look at Pentax 6x7. Great photos, amazing lenses, especially the standard 105mm f2.4. But it will weight 2 times as much as the Yashica. This camera is on my want to have list.

What is your budget and style of camera you want?
post #503 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChefs View Post

There are lots of options, most MF cameras have square crop. You can start with something cheap and terrible Holga, it will set you back $25 or so. But it can take some nice and moody photos. The whole lomography movement is based around them.

If you want something between lomo and decent camera, with a crappy lens and blurry photos, you can pick up lubitel 166 cheaply.

If you want something that will make good photos, you could go for a Yashica 124G. They are good, reliable and have nice optics. It's a TLR. It all depends on your budget. You can get Hasselblad for $800 with one lens and back.

You can also look at Pentacon Six.

If you want great zeiss glass, if you are lucky you can pick up rolleiflex 3.5 for great prices. So look around. Or the much cheaper rolleicord version.

If you want really great camera, for not much money, you can also look at 6x7 format (10 shots per roll instead of 12) You can take a look at Pentax 6x7. Great photos, amazing lenses, especially the standard 105mm f2.4. But it will weight 2 times as much as the Yashica. This camera is on my want to have list.

What is your budget and style of camera you want?

I have one of these with mirror lockup and it's a great medium format camera. Heavy and bulky yes but that's what tripods are for. LOL!
post #504 of 644

Anyone on here have a spare spotmeter they'd be willing to sell? I haven't had great results from my Bronica SQ, seems mostly b/c I suck at metering with a Sekonic 398 and/or using a DSLR to meter.

post #505 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoreman1782 View Post

Anyone on here have a spare spotmeter they'd be willing to sell? I haven't had great results from my Bronica SQ, seems mostly b/c I suck at metering with a Sekonic 398 and/or using a DSLR to meter.

Do you shoot slide film? If you don't, you don't need a spotmeter. I shoot a bit of slide film, so I use it. 99% of the time the reading is the same as incident metering.

Don't ever use DSLR to meter for film, especially negative film. The meter underexpose on purpose to preserve highlights and you will get dark photos. You want the opposite with negative film.

All you need to do is learn how to use your 398. It's about reading light, knowing how to position the meter etc... once you do that you will get great results.

But yes, all 4 of my above photos were spot metered. But the readings came out the same as my friends Sekonic L-308s in reflective mode. I use L-758, which is essentially the same as L-558.

Also spot meters are much harder to use, you need to learn about zone system, which isn't easy and it requires you to visualise the final result.
post #506 of 644

From instagram (x100s):

 

 

post #507 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChefs View Post


Do you shoot slide film? If you don't, you don't need a spotmeter. I shoot a bit of slide film, so I use it. 99% of the time the reading is the same as incident metering.

Don't ever use DSLR to meter for film, especially negative film. The meter underexpose on purpose to preserve highlights and you will get dark photos. You want the opposite with negative film.

All you need to do is learn how to use your 398. It's about reading light, knowing how to position the meter etc... once you do that you will get great results.

But yes, all 4 of my above photos were spot metered. But the readings came out the same as my friends Sekonic L-308s in reflective mode. I use L-758, which is essentially the same as L-558.

Also spot meters are much harder to use, you need to learn about zone system, which isn't easy and it requires you to visualise the final result.


Thanks for the response. I don't shoot slide, at least not yet. I've only shot four rolls on my MF, but so far everything's been underexposed (shot at diferent times, but developed at the same time). Going to try and compensate on the next few.

post #508 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoreman1782 View Post


Thanks for the response. I don't shoot slide, at least not yet. I've only shot four rolls on my MF, but so far everything's been underexposed (shot at diferent times, but developed at the same time). Going to try and compensate on the next few.

Shore, I take it you're using a finder that doesn't meter? If memory serves me right there are finders with meters for that camera. You might want to look into that.
post #509 of 644

From what I can discern, the meters w finder for the bronica don't have a great rep, although something would be better than nothing. I sorta figured that for $100-$150 or more, I'd rather get something solid I could use with multiple cameras, rather than a mediocre tool exclusive to this system.

 

Truthfully, I got the 398 to help me learn, but it's expensive to learn on 120 film :)

post #510 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoreman1782 View Post

From what I can discern, the meters w finder for the bronica don't have a great rep, although something would be better than nothing. I sorta figured that for $100-$150 or more, I'd rather get something solid I could use with multiple cameras, rather than a mediocre tool exclusive to this system.

Truthfully, I got the 398 to help me learn, but it's expensive to learn on 120 film smile.gif

Too expensive for sure. I'm wondering if your camera needs to be CLAed. The ASA shutter coupling might be the culprit. Don't you have a metered 35mm camera that you could go out with and compare your handheld to?
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