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***SW&D Photography Thread*** - Page 21

post #301 of 1037
Originally Posted by shoreman1782 View Post

Neat shots! For the first roll through I just used my Nikon FE, which was probably risky but I couldn't wait. The Sekonic I-308 works for you? Haven't invested in a meter yet.

Thanks, 308s works great for 99% of my photos. Every single photo I've posted on this page was metered with it. If it meant shoving the meter in random peoples faces to get the light correct. That's what I did. Even for the guy with the cut-throat razor. The great thing about it is, that it's small and I can carry it with me anywhere. Works just as great with my dslr and exposure is always spot on, best photography device ever and it doesn't matter what camera you have now or in the future.

I also do strobe photography and it helps me get my manual flashlights right on the first go.

The only reason I want the more advanced L758 is the spot meter. I shoot fair bit of Kodak E100VS and since it is discontinued I want to nail every single frame and I don't want to waste any of it. I think it looks gorgeous, but it can be tricky where there is high contrast and then there's need for a bit of zone metering. On the other hand it is bigger, heavier and it uses funky batteries.
post #302 of 1037
So my dilemma now is, buy a light meter or an sq-a metered finder...
post #303 of 1037
Easy, hand held incident lightmeter.
Metered finder = extra 500g of glass to carry around and inaccurate TTL exposure.

For example, if you take a photo of a white wall using prism meter, it will look grey. Next take a photo of a black wall, it will look the same grey.
With incident meter white is white, black is black. And I'm sure you will get a lot more keepers, you will just have to get used to working with it.

portra400_016.jpg by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

portra400_015.jpg by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

ektar040.jpg by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

ektar034.jpg by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr
post #304 of 1037
TheChefs, your photography is awesome, perfect composition!

Last weekend I did some shooting at the Grand Prix of Baltimore. It was my first time shooting motorsports (but hopefully not my last !).

The full set can be found here.
Edited by Gravitas - 9/8/13 at 4:29pm
post #305 of 1037
Gravitas, nice photos and they capture the action. You should try some panning shots, they blur out the background and capture the speed. But they are difficult to do. But that's why they are great!

Thanks for the complement, composure is something that I've been reading/studying and practicing for the past 6 months and it's slowly paying off. I think my photos are slowly becoming better, but they still need work. Also the huge viewfinders on old manual focus cameras make composing a lot easier, the medium format ones practically look 3d. Unfortunately it's harder to capture action on them.

portra400_021.jpg by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr
post #306 of 1037

The constant struggle between wanting to take good photos and not wanting to demolish your camera while headbanging along to a DJ Producer set.


post #307 of 1037
post #308 of 1037

Some snaps from a recent trip to Israel & Barca. All except for like 2-3 are straight out of camera, too lazy for proper post.

Although my main camera is a 7D, these were all shot on a t1i with a tamron 17-50











post #309 of 1037

post #310 of 1037
I went to glacier NP and took a course with AMS (Alaska mountaineering school)

lots o pictures
post #311 of 1037
For how long were you there?
post #312 of 1037
thanks! A week in Montana and 2 weeks with AMS
post #313 of 1037

I've had a Canon 1100D DSLR with a few lenses for a while now and I'm looking to sell it and get something more compact for street photography. Depending on how much I can flog it for, I've got about £400, what would you dudes recommend? Was considering grabbing a second hand Fuji x100.

post #314 of 1037
You guys got to learn how to live a bit more dangerously.

post #315 of 1037

Each and every one of those is stellar.

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