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Serious Crimes Against CM - Page 9

post #121 of 141

In my opinion, the following things are not necessarily "serious crimes against CM":

 

- black suits (although charcoal grey and navy blue are better in most cases, a black suit can look good in certain cirumstances)

- black odd trousers (traditionally worn with smoking jackets and white dinner jackets)

- black or any other dark shirts (hard to look good in them, but not impossible)

- jackets that don't cover your rear end (necessary with a kilt; Spencer or mess jackets are another example)

- suits without ties (turtlenecks can look great with suits; open-necked shirts with suits are hard to pull off, but should not be ruled out completely)

- light tan shoes with dark suits (a matter of taste)

- French blue shirts (especially combined with shades of tan or cream)

- tux with vents (if double-breasted)

- jackets without pocket squares (pocket squares are optional and can be too much if a boutonniere is worn)

- buttoning the bottom button of a jacket (one button jackets can't be buttoned in any other way; military jackets are always fully buttoned; it looks fine with double-breasted jackets; rarely, some civilian single-breasted jackets are meant to be worn with all buttons fastened)

- black shoes and tan pants (look at pictures of Brummell; although he wore boots instead of shoes, black with tan is far from being a "serious crime")

- suit jacket worn as SC (especially if the jacket is blue or brown)

- fun socks (I don't like patterned socks, but if "fun socks" implies vibrant colours, fun socks are no problem)

post #122 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by irgendwas View Post

In my opinion, the following things are not necessarily "serious crimes against CM":

 

- black suits (although charcoal grey and navy blue are better in most cases, a black suit can look good in certain cirumstances)

- black odd trousers (traditionally worn with smoking jackets and white dinner jackets)

- black or any other dark shirts (hard to look good in them, but not impossible)

- jackets that don't cover your rear end (necessary with a kilt; Spencer or mess jackets are another example)

- suits without ties (turtlenecks can look great with suits; open-necked shirts with suits are hard to pull off, but should not be ruled out completely)

- light tan shoes with dark suits (a matter of taste)

- French blue shirts (especially combined with shades of tan or cream)

- tux with vents (if double-breasted)

- jackets without pocket squares (pocket squares are optional and can be too much if a boutonniere is worn)

- buttoning the bottom button of a jacket (one button jackets can't be buttoned in any other way; military jackets are always fully buttoned; it looks fine with double-breasted jackets; rarely, some civilian single-breasted jackets are meant to be worn with all buttons fastened)

- black shoes and tan pants (look at pictures of Brummell; although he wore boots instead of shoes, black with tan is far from being a "serious crime")

- suit jacket worn as SC (especially if the jacket is blue or brown)

- fun socks (I don't like patterned socks, but if "fun socks" implies vibrant colours, fun socks are no problem)

twit

post #123 of 141
Contrast stitching should definitely make the list, that's a good one.
post #124 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by irgendwas View Post

In my opinion, the following things are not necessarily "serious crimes against CM":

 

- black suits (although charcoal grey and navy blue are better in most cases, a black suit can look good in certain cirumstances)

- black odd trousers (traditionally worn with smoking jackets and white dinner jackets)

- black or any other dark shirts (hard to look good in them, but not impossible)

- jackets that don't cover your rear end (necessary with a kilt; Spencer or mess jackets are another example)

- suits without ties (turtlenecks can look great with suits; open-necked shirts with suits are hard to pull off, but should not be ruled out completely)

- light tan shoes with dark suits (a matter of taste)

- French blue shirts (especially combined with shades of tan or cream)

- tux with vents (if double-breasted)

- jackets without pocket squares (pocket squares are optional and can be too much if a boutonniere is worn)

- buttoning the bottom button of a jacket (one button jackets can't be buttoned in any other way; military jackets are always fully buttoned; it looks fine with double-breasted jackets; rarely, some civilian single-breasted jackets are meant to be worn with all buttons fastened)

- black shoes and tan pants (look at pictures of Brummell; although he wore boots instead of shoes, black with tan is far from being a "serious crime")

- suit jacket worn as SC (especially if the jacket is blue or brown)

- fun socks (I don't like patterned socks, but if "fun socks" implies vibrant colours, fun socks are no problem)

+1 on most of those. Most of them are little things that are done VERY frequently on this thread and applauded (if done by the right person)...suits without hankies?...come on.

post #125 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post

- suits without ties

- light tan shoes with dark suits

What qualifies as "light tan?"...walnut?

post #126 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

What qualifies as "light tan?"...walnut?


Nah - for this thread, this is the sort of thing I have in mind:

 

 

(Of course, as a Limey I wouldn't wear even dark brown shoes with navy if shooting for CBD.  But I was avoiding an idiosyncratic British view in contributing to this thread, given the 'generally egregious' premiss.)

post #127 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


If oversized knots is an offense, then Duke of Kent has been committing serious crimes against Classic Menswear for decades...

That's Prince Michael of Kent, not the Duke of Kent. They are two different men.
post #128 of 141

I'd say the pants in the picture Balfour posted are too dark for those shoes, but I think there are some navy with which those shoes would work, though not in a CBD context.

 

Also, as far as black suits, should we specify "during the day time" as it becomes a bit more acceptable after the sun goes down?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loathing View Post


That's Prince Michael of Kent, not the Duke of Kent. They are two different men.

Sometimes his knots work.

 

Sometimes they don't

 

and sometimes you don't even notice...

(I'd be smirking too)

post #129 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post


Nah - for this thread, this is the sort of thing I have in mind:




(Of course, as a Limey I wouldn't wear even dark brown shoes with navy if shooting for CBD.  But I was avoiding an idiosyncratic British view in contributing to this thread, given the 'generally egregious' premiss.)

I like that look. The same suit with dark brown shoes would look wrong, the tan ones create a nice contrast. No, it's not conservative but personally I don't care much for conservative.

So if you ask me, lighter brown shoes with dark blue is fine.
post #130 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post


Nah - for this thread, this is the sort of thing I have in mind:

 

 

(Of course, as a Limey I wouldn't wear even dark brown shoes with navy if shooting for CBD.  But I was avoiding an idiosyncratic British view in contributing to this thread, given the 'generally egregious' premiss.)

That looks like walnut to me, but I guess there's room for interpretation. I like that combo.

post #131 of 141

Some serious crimes against CM no one has mentioned:

 

- visible belt buckles under waistcoats

- untucked shirts with a jacket, a waistcoat and/or knitwear

- pre-"tied" "ties"

- too short socks, partially revealing the bare leg

 

Edit: I know someone who admitted he wore a pre-tied bow tie to the Vienna Opera Ball (which requires white tie). After asking him why he didn't wear a self-tied tie, he said it would have been too time-consuming. I don't think tying a bow tie is time-consuming in comparison to putting on the rest of full evening dress.


Edited by irgendwas - 5/8/13 at 2:14am
post #132 of 141

Novelty items (ties, cufflinks, pants, etc)

post #133 of 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by SelfMade View Post

Novelty items (ties, cufflinks, pants, etc)


 Right...

 

 

 

post #134 of 141

May I had: a) pants without a break and b) puddle pants, where the wearer's heel winds up stepping on the back part of the trousers. Oh, yes, and suit jackets that: a) cover the knuckles and b) still have the designer label on the sleeve.
 

post #135 of 141

Brooks Brothers, long a stronghold of of the reasonably conservative, has embraced the too short jacket. End times, friends. End times.

 

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