What's your opinion on wide notch-lapels? Tom Ford/70s type wide. - Page 4
I liked the early TF stuff as a reaction to all the skinny lapels around at the time, but the wider lapel already felt slightly played out by the time Polo started its Garrison (IIRC the name; not sure) line and now it's getting stale for me. For a DB, there's something decadently fun about wide lapels; I've always liked them there and still do. They play well with the relative informality of a double-breasted jacket, especially in concert with non-businessy materials. But for a single-breasted jacket, I'm as bored of very wide lapels as I am of very narrow ones. There's quite large room for maneouvre in the middle ground to keep things interesting, without veering right into the extremes.
IIRC, the more recent TF collections have shifted to a slightly more neutral lapel width. Despite my comments above, I have mixed feelings about this. On one hand, they look a bit better. On the other, it removes a defining characteristic, making the jackets a bit more anonymous. At least the wide lapels had personality. I guess I can reconcile this feeling with my first para by saying that if you're going to pay TF prices for RTW, then you might as well be getting something relatively difficult to obtain elsewhere. If you want a more conservative suit at those prices (or indeed, rather less) there are plenty of other, and potentially better fitting, options.
Tom Ford's new skinny peak lapels look terrible.
Haven't seen those; I was thinking of the more neutral notch ones, like the ones from Skyfall.
Have you got a pic of the skinny peaks? I'm always up for a giggle. :)
I think they look weird.
Yeah, I can see why you're not keen on the narrower peaks. The notches look better with the newer width though IMO. Leaving that aside, the model with the beard looks rather painfully sunburnt. I can only assume this was an intentional style decision by the TF team, as otherwise he would have presumably been sent home and someone else hired instead. I must indeed have reached the fuddy-duddy stage of life, because I can't for the life of me discern why this is something aspirational to portray or even artistically meaningful in terms of creating a positive buzz. :)
Slightly higher stance on jacket buttons, slimmer lapels, and the pants are much more tailored and tapered down at the leg opening. An overall slimmer fit compared to prev Windsor/ Wetherby.
Overall as a suit, I prefer the older Windsor/ Wetherby cut over this one. Definitely a pass on this new season. Clearly designed for a younger clientèle with slimmer/skinnier frame in mind.
However, as a blazer only, the look is refreshing.
I'm not sure it translates. TF is selling a certain decadence. Put the huge lapels on Ralph's clean-cut models and the effect is lost.
It will be interesting to see how the wide lapel thing plays out, if it hasn't already. The skinny lapel fad was accompanied by a renewed appreciation for the period clothes. Lots of talk of "when men knew how to dress" and "back to business" and that sort of thing. Felt right for the times. Have we had enough austerity that people are now warming to the '70s? I would think that would be a hard sell -- the '60s fashions were never held in the same regretful contempt as the '70s stuff. If people don't appreciate the original looks, how much legs can the revival have?
I'd love to see some interesting shaping on a wider lapel, like the sort of thing you saw in the '30s and '40s. That would be more interesting to me than lapels that are oversized for the sake of being oversized.
The funny thing is that Ralph did originally. Made his name trading on the golden age. But the stuff in the OP (especially the second one) looks much more '70s to me. I assume that's because he's chasing TF, whose aesthetic is very much grounded in that decade's debauchery.
Nothing subtle about TF though I have a grudging respect for his riffing on some interesting shapes, colors and textures. Would you have any photos of those older lapels you mentioned - those with some more shape?