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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 65

post #961 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Each keystroke feels like a smack.


One time my friend speak me a joke, something about Die Nile is River.
post #962 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbromer View Post


It was actually a quartet, including Marinella. I believe he also stopped using them as well.

 

Get your Foo history right - Marinella was never favored by the The Foo. He tried'em out, but considered them adequate but sterile. He liked, and still likes Capelli (Fooproved TM)
post #963 of 1166
he got some bespoke marinellas made but then decided he preferred the thinner, lighter unlined Rubinaccis, and he sold his marinellas to vox
post #964 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

teh original
pure cotton

chambray1.jpg


Is possible T4phage, also Matuozzo, have a big sad for to discover this tissu is no pure cotton?

Like someone already speak, is possible blog poast of Matuozzo is réponse without to acknowledge teh threak/poast of styleforvm? snork[1].gif
post #965 of 1166
Thread Starter 
What incentive do I have to go back and retract an endorsement? You know, in most circles that would be seen as an honorable mea culpa. If anything, it's embarrassing to admit I am wrong and it would be far easier just to not report that I made a mistake. Only you guys could manage to twist that around.

Anyway, I try to share my experiences for others' benefit. So, I feel bad when somebody or a company I spoke favorably of turns out to be less than I thought. If you don't appreciate that and would rather continue swimming in the shallow end of the pool, where every random "artisan" is infallible and deserves unwavering respect, then please, feel free. But stay out of my threads--because you won't get that here.

Here is a re-cap of what I've dealt with, to clear-up the insinuations made by others. If you find it helpful, great. If you want to chat about it, great. If you want to continue insinuating I'm lying, get out of my thread.

Jay Kos
I paid for a $1,000 alligator belt in 2006. They sent me the wrong size. I returned it and they refused to refund the payment, because they don't do returns when an error can be fixed, only exchanges. However, they didn't have a belt in my size (which they had lied about). So, they said they'd order the correct size and ship it to me within three months. I waited three years, and still no belt. They gave me different excuses. Hold-up in production. Not enough high-quality hides. Finally, held by U.S. Fish and Wildlife for inspection. No belt. I tried to be friendly and maintain the relationship the whole time, which is why I tolerated such a long wait. When I had enough, I threatened a charge-back on my American Express. They promptly refunded me. Jay Kos has since closed down its original shops and become some avant garde vegan food bar that sells crocodile jackets on the side.

Borelli
In 2006, I bought a MTM shirt from the New York boutique, before they were shut down. I had about a dozen MTM Borelli shirts ordered from a shop in the DC area. They were decent, but I figured I could get a better fit if I went straight to the source and got fit by their much lauded shop manager. However, the manager was largely dismissive and seemed distracted during our meeting. The new shirt arrived with broken stitches all over the place. And it didn't come remotely close to fitting. I returned the shirt and didn't order another. Lesson learned: don't trust someone who doesn't appear to give a shit, no matter their reputation.

Talarico
They refused to discuss a custom umbrella when I visited their shop in Naples, back in 2008. They insisted I go back to the U.S. and buy one of their umbrellas from Barney's. Bizarre. I told them I needed a shorter length because of my height. They said they can't help me because they only make umbrellas for Barney's and other big companies. Whnay had exactly the same experience a few months later--and he was with Mariano at the time. Later, Mariano called them on my behalf to make an umbrella. They said yes when he asked.

Ambrosi
You all know the story. I am currently owed 11 trousers. Salvatore and I are working on resolving this. I am hopeful, but we'll see. It is a particularly upsetting situation since I did so much to popularize him in the first place.

Matuozzo
They made me amazing shirts--to begin with. The workmanship, fit, and service were fantastic. But on my next dozen shirts, they switched the workmanship down to their "semi-handmade" version, which costs ~150 euro less per shirt than I was paying. I contacted them to rectify this multiple times. They've gone AWOL on me, even canceling my appointment with them in Naples, with less then five days notice. They flippantly suggested I come back another time. I am not the only client of theirs to experience this bait-and-switch tactic, but I've promised not to reveal their names.

Marinella
I have no problem with Marinella. Service was great. Ties were great. My tastes simply changed. They are a must-visit when in Naples.

Oxxford
Ordered about a half-dozen suits and jackets from their New York shop back in 2005-2006. Workmanship was excellent. Service was well-meaning, but lacked attention to detail. I asked for natural, unpadded shoulders. I wound up with very heavily padded ones. To rectify, they simply removed the shoulder padding--causing an effect exactly like the NSM pa-fucked upturn. The cause? When you simply remove the padding from a shoulder and don't cut down the arm scye, the scye will rise too far above the jacket's shoulder line, causing it to turn upward. I asked them to properly make the jackets with unpadded shoulders in the future. They did not and kept repeating the same error. There were other mistakes, too. Linings in unlined jackets. Wrong linings. Wrong lapel types. Forgetting to put in pleats on trousers. List goes on. Then I decided I had enough with MTM and started planning a trip to Naples.

Hermes
Bizarre experience at men's shop on Madison. They refused to discuss a special order wallet "at this time." After some persistence and targeted e-mailing, things worked out. I love my wallet.

Simonnot-Godard
They said their chambray was 100% cotton. I bought a large quantity. They then said it is actually part polyester. I don't see how any of you are confused about why this is wrong and dishonest of them. And yes, I think any poly-blend fabric is de facto shit fabric. Some of you keep asking about longevity. Yet, if longevity were a meaningful measure of what a shirting should cost, then all the nice shirtings this forum likes to get from Alumo, Riva, SIC Tess, etc., would be stupid buys and all-poly would be king.
post #966 of 1166
^^^ Really enjoyed reading this summary of some of my alltime favorite adventures of the Foo. Ahhh memories. smile.gif
post #967 of 1166
Thread Starter 
And, Carl, I don't know what you're offended by. Every professional is subject to his own biases and self-interest, whether a doctor, lawyer, or shirtmaker. It is always wise for a client to operate with some healthy objectivity about this. That doesn't mean you are a liar--just that you are human and not infallible. I accept no judgment--whether yours or Mariano Rubinacci's--as absolutely sacrosanct. I've seen too much error and variability for that.
post #968 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

If anything, it's embarrassing to admit I am wrong and it would be far easier just to not report that I made a mistake.

 

There's nothing embarrassing on committing a mistake. Assuming your mistake, however, is truly remarkable.

I'm arrogant as well, so I can see why you're mistaken about that.

post #969 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TC (Houston) View Post

^^^ Really enjoyed reading this summary of some of my alltime favorite adventures of the Foo. Ahhh memories. smile.gif

When you try that many things, you are bound to wind up with less-than-positive experiences. My guess is that the majority of today's forum is still in its honeymoon phase.
post #970 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post

There's nothing embarrassing on committing a mistake. Assuming your mistake, however, is truly remarkable.
I'm arrogant as well, so I can see why you're mistaken about that.

I have no idea what you mean. Mind clarifying?

Also, in another thread, you mentioned it was the first time you'd seen me say something helpful. Perhaps you could stand some perspective? I've been on this forum five years longer than you, with a post count to show for it. I've done my fair share of helping.
post #971 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hws View Post

Is possible T4phage, also Matuozzo, have a big sad for to discover this tissu is no pure cotton?

Like someone already speak, is possible blog poast of Matuozzo is réponse without to acknowledge teh threak/poast of styleforvm? snork[1].gif

Who is a better authority on what a shirting is made of? The shirtmaker, a client of the shirtmaker, or the manufacturer of the shirting?

SG lied to its own Danish distributor about the material content of its chambray, before being forced to come clean. Why should we be surprised that they also lied to the shirtmakers who buy it?
post #972 of 1166
Did you ever get the Talarico made? I thought you decided to go with Smiths.
post #973 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Did you ever get the Talarico made? I thought you decided to go with Smiths.

I got one from Smith, but then gave it to my dad because he liked it.

I am still waiting on the Talarico . . .
post #974 of 1166
Despite my needling, I do empathize with you. The big Savile Row and Jermym Street shops are often quietly tsk-tsk'ed here (not artisanal enough, no handwork, 'hey bro, have you even read jeffrey diduich's blog?'), but they produce a fairly consistent, well made product, and their customer service and production schedules are relatively well-oiled (let me repeat myself, relatively). I know you love the Italians, and Rubi has served you well, but I suggest you give one of the Brits a go sometime in the future. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
post #975 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

When you try that many things, you are bound to wind up with less-than-positive experiences. My guess is that the majority of today's forum is still in its honeymoon phase.

I'll be more pessimistic and say that the whole custom clothing industry is more screwed up than anyone suspects. Perhaps it is a problem intrinsic to being an artisanal maker (especially with the scale of attention and popularity that the Internet can bring to them), or perhaps most of them have no desire to become more organized. Whatever it is, I think people should go into these kinds of things with their eyes open, but with their expectations of excellent service in the event of a screw-up elevated. Excellent service is probably the main thing everyone should look for in these kinds of relationships, because something will get screwed up along the way and probably more than once.

I think people who must have things right the first time should buy off the rack and have it altered locally. Anyone who wants to try out some of the more obscure or exotic vendors/makers have to be prepared for heartbreak, or at least a long wait (before probable heartbreak). But if you must have custom, then I'd look for a local person that you can deal with personally and make the feedback loop as small and fast as possible.

That said, I'm not sure how you figure out whether someone has good service or not in the case of fixing screw-ups. It seems like not even past history is an accurate predictor of future behavior.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]