I was more thinking of paying up for something that generally sucked rather than something that generally sucked with a bit of polyester.
The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 60
Styleforum Top Picks
Simonnot Godard never had much of a reputation for shirting. They merely have one obscure fabric range used by a handful of shirtmakers in Naples. The company primarily manufactures pocket squares for third party distribution, not shirting for use by bespoke tailors, and they market themselves accordingly. Contrast Alumo or Albini which are shirting specialists and carried by every decent shirtmaker in the world and used in tens if not hundreds of thousands of custom shirts produced annually. That's the kind of reputation or track record you can safely rely upon.
S-G use own old loom for to make pochettes, but S-G tissus chemises is made by other tisserand for S-G, so is a bullshit to say that S-G tissus chemises is make of old loom! Only thing of 18 century is société S-G!
Shuttle loom of tisserands is no of 18 century, is of 20 century, include Bonfanti, Riva!
Ok, so how much do you think they're saving per meter by weaving it with 20% poly instead of 100% cotton? $5? I'd be very surprised if it were that much, given that you can buy 100% cotton chambray for that much. But I'd love to hear from someone who would know the actual answer, or at least a more informed guess than mine.
A penny saved is a penny earned, if you could increase your margin on a product by at least 20% and probably more given thats its that amount over the base cost wouldn't you? There are a number of factors, your input costs are lower because the yarn stock you are buying is from a different grade than the competition i.e. long staple super 1xxs, your order runs are large with cottons/linens i.e. a minimum run on shuttle looms is 200m+. Your finishing costs are lower because the cloth doesn't need the extra care of specialist finishing as others would.
Remember even if Will & Torsten are making 100% mark-up on the cloth its leaving the factory gate at around E25/m, at a maximum cost of E3~4/m. And if they've been doing this for years I'm sure they've made a lot of money off it.
Please, keep teh deer bonz out of this.
Nothing beats a good boning. Provided, of course, you know how to properly bone. We're talking about shell, right?