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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 60

post #886 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

I don't think Will was being deceptive when he sold the cloth. Like most of us, he probably thought that it was what we used to think it was.

I was more thinking of paying up for something that generally sucked rather than something that generally sucked with a bit of polyester.
post #887 of 1166
I smell a lawsuit coming to Will if somebody accidentally catches fire and has a chambray shirt permanently melted to his skin.
post #888 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

If you are making choices without respect to the reputation of a fabric maker, then I'd argue that you aren't making informed choices. Your shirtmaker, like any other, is unreliable on his own.

Simonnot Godard never had much of a reputation for shirting. They merely have one obscure fabric range used by a handful of shirtmakers in Naples. The company primarily manufactures pocket squares for third party distribution, not shirting for use by bespoke tailors, and they market themselves accordingly. Contrast Alumo or Albini which are shirting specialists and carried by every decent shirtmaker in the world and used in tens if not hundreds of thousands of custom shirts produced annually. That's the kind of reputation or track record you can safely rely upon.
post #889 of 1166
Hah! I actually got a deer bone (not from Will of course, they're common as dirt around here) and it didn't do much for me.
Edited by Ataturk - 5/3/13 at 12:25pm
post #890 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Are they a weaver or do they contract that out?

Maybe they didn't know themselves ?

I don't care one way or the other, it's just fun to speculate.


The tissu is made by other, for S-G!
post #891 of 1166
They are passing a bill about class action lawsuit here in France, you should sue Simonot Godard.
!luc
post #892 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

...on 18th century looms.

I actually like Will quite a lot, and I'm sure he's just repeating stuff he heard, but he seems to be the source of most of the BS surrounding this fabric.


S-G use own old loom for to make pochettes, but S-G tissus chemises is made by other tisserand for S-G, so is a bullshit to say that S-G tissus chemises is make of old loom! Only thing of 18 century is société S-G!

Shuttle loom of tisserands is no of 18 century, is of 20 century, include Bonfanti, Riva!
post #893 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post


Foo. you were dumbfounded when version #3 was just as bad in it's own way.
But you did not want to believe my statement at first. You wanted to buy into the myth reputation of the SG chambray, so badly, that you could not hear what Eugene or I had to say.

FTFY
post #894 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

FTFY

Eerily similar to the excuse for lauding the older rubinacci's droopy shoulders...
post #895 of 1166
Must be a 1% thing the rest of us just don't get
post #896 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


Ok, so how much do you think they're saving per meter by weaving it with 20% poly instead of 100% cotton? $5? I'd be very surprised if it were that much, given that you can buy 100% cotton chambray for that much. But I'd love to hear from someone who would know the actual answer, or at least a more informed guess than mine.

 

A penny saved is a penny earned, if you could increase your margin on a product by at least 20% and probably more given thats its that amount over the base cost wouldn't you?  There are a number of factors, your input costs are lower because the yarn stock you are buying is from a different grade than the competition i.e. long staple super 1xxs, your order runs are large with cottons/linens  i.e. a minimum run on shuttle looms is 200m+.  Your finishing costs are lower because the cloth doesn't need the extra care of specialist finishing as others would.

 

Remember even if Will & Torsten are making 100% mark-up on the cloth its leaving the factory gate at around E25/m, at a maximum cost of E3~4/m.  And if they've been doing this for years I'm sure they've made a lot of money off it.

post #897 of 1166
I'm sure the cost is lower, but low enough to intentionally risk the reputation of your company? I kind of doubt that.
post #898 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

And also the deer bone...

Please, keep teh deer bonz out of this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

Hah! I actually got a deer bone (not from Will of course, they're common as dirt around here) and it didn't do much for me.

Nothing beats a good boning. Provided, of course, you know how to properly bone. We're talking about shell, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

Must be a 20% thing the rest of us just don't get

FTFY
post #899 of 1166

That cloth is still on the asw store without any update to the product description. 

post #900 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post


I see what you did there - well played
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]