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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 56

post #826 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end. The high-end men's clothing industry is full of hucksters. Sadly, Simonnot Godard is one of them.

 

Just bought some of Torsten's SG chambray at the new closeout price!

 

Polyester or not, the price is great and I like the one I have.

post #827 of 1166
...
Edited by dieworkwear - 5/3/13 at 6:54pm
post #828 of 1166
I realise you guys are principled and all that....but if the fabric looks nice, feels nice and has decent longevity...what's the problem?

Wasn't the unique property of the SG Chambray that it's smooth enough to be worn as formally as a blue shirt allows, but textured enough to allow casual shirting, and hence why its premium was justifiable to Foo?

Why is this property somehow not so unique now that we find out that polyester is blended in?
post #829 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

I realise you guys are principled and all that....but if the fabric looks nice, feels nice and has decent longevity...what's the problem?

Wasn't the unique property of the SG Chambray that it's smooth enough to be worn as formally as a blue shirt allows, but textured enough to allow casual shirting, and hence why its premium was justifiable to Foo?

Why is this property somehow not so unique now that we find out that polyester is blended in?

I say this as someone who has a couple of shirts made from the SG chambray (as well as the voile) ... I believe the original allure of the SG cloth is that it was hard to get and used by shirtmakers and tailors that were placed on a pedestal (primarily because they were hard to access and had all of the iGent checklist checked off). Certain respected posters also had these shirts, and they looked pretty good, too, but I get a feeling it was a bit of the thrill of the hunt.

Having said that, I'm happy with my shirts, and continue to wear them. I do think that the cloth is OK only for casual or sporting shirts, and not appropriate for dressier shirts, and I didn't think anyone thought otherwise until this thread.

Also, is there an ending state for the SF hype cycle that ends in actual flames?
post #830 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end.

Have you considered cotton-linen blends for lightweight button-downs?

I'm inclined to go with that in the future, now that your research has demolished my 18th-century-loomed dreams, much in the manner of Ned Lud.
post #831 of 1166
I have some shirts in acorn end on end that I am very happy with
post #832 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post



I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end.

I think this is going to work out better as a dress shirt with single cuffs. The chambray would have been better as a button down.
post #833 of 1166


It was worth the second degree burns on my fingers to prove I was right.

rotflmao.gif

post #834 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

I realise you guys are principled and all that....but if the fabric looks nice, feels nice and has decent longevity...what's the problem?

Wasn't the unique property of the SG Chambray that it's smooth enough to be worn as formally as a blue shirt allows, but textured enough to allow casual shirting, and hence why its premium was justifiable to Foo?

Why is this property somehow not so unique now that we find out that polyester is blended in?

Honestly, the cloth, when received, was rather rough which is why I haven't made it up since my purchase some time ago (I even thought Foo had chanced upon a new length of Godard that was smoother).

I was extremely astonished given the amount I had paid for it but naturally, never thought to burn the cloth to test the composition, obviously believing I was sold an all cotton fabric because that's what was listed on the site. All's well and fine if I was told that the fabric had polyester in it before hand and still went ahead with the purchase since in this case, the consumer made an informed decision -- for some of us, drawing us to a notice that there is polyester content might dissuade the purchase (In my case, I'd definitely not have paid 80 euros (plus shipping) for a terribly rough fabric with polyester content in it).

It's like saying that you think you're being sold a Rubinacci suit made out of 100% wool for 4000 euros because you're told so. When you're actually paying 4000 euros for a Wool and Polyester suit. It's a fair comment to make that some people might well be dissuaded from paying 4000 euros for a suit that is made out of a Wool-Polyester blend, Rubinacci or not.

Torsten's present price is a fair one.
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 5/3/13 at 12:08am
post #835 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Torsten is SG's distributor in Denmark. He runs the blog The Journal of Style and the web shop Grunwald. He's like the Danish version of Will of ASW.

I bought the chambray from him. A couple of days ago he got on the phone with me to tell me SG told him the cloth I have is part polyester. In fact, all of their chambray, regardless of type, is part polyster. They even added that it has had polyester in it for the past 30 years, including what is sent to places like Rubinacci.

I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end. The high-end men's clothing industry is full of hucksters. Sadly, Simonnot Godard is one of them.



I'd say that's pretty decent customer service on part of Torsten and Grunwald. worship.gif
bigstar[1].gif
post #836 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

I'd say that's pretty decent customer service on part of Torsten and Grunwald. worship.gif
bigstar[1].gif

True that.
post #837 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

BTW, I agree, no BDs in end on end.

Maybe I'm biased since EoE is 75% of what I wear but I think it's versatile enough to take a BD.

Plain poplins look bad as BDs but the small amount of visual interest in an EoE allows for it to be ever so slightly more casual, though it works perfectly with a spread collar and French cuffs.
Edited by Cantabrigian - 5/3/13 at 7:44am
post #838 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

I realise you guys are principled and all that....but if the fabric looks nice, feels nice and has decent longevity...what's the problem?

Wasn't the unique property of the SG Chambray that it's smooth enough to be worn as formally as a blue shirt allows, but textured enough to allow casual shirting, and hence why its premium was justifiable to Foo?

Why is this property somehow not so unique now that we find out that polyester is blended in?

 

You speak as if a principle can be just cast aside!  But seriously what has really annoyed these guys is the huge premium paid for the cloth compared to what goes into it.  Polyester will increase heat and odour while reducing creases but more importantly it reduces cost in raw materials. Synthetics/blends are cheap because they are cheap if you twig my tautology.  So SG are supplying an inauthentic product at grossly inflated prices, for what you were paying for it you can get worsted wools or super 140s/160s cotton shirtings etc. or even pay retail for Bonfanti or Riva.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Thin Man View Post



I'm inclined to go with that in the future, now that your research has demolished my 18th-century-loomed dreams, much in the manner of Ned Lud.

 

Fear not, there's always Bonfanti if you're so inclined, the looms are wooden http://www.bonfantitessuti.it/la_produzione_4.html

post #839 of 1166
All the EoE I have is too thin and smooth. I remember I once had a BB BD in EoE and I always hated it. Took me a while to understand why.
post #840 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Are we seriously entertaining the notion that polyester is a legitimate material for nice shirting? Sorry, but that's just drowning in denial. How many of us could feel the difference between SG chambray and a two-buck-a-yard cotton-poly blend in a blind test? Do you really think there is a difference? Do you really believe that SG purposely uses polyester to achieve some sort of visual effect? I can't remember hearing something so absurd from someone so well-reputed in the industry.

Come on, guys. Wake up. I fell for it too, but enough is enough. Draw the line. The truth is, this whole experience only proves how little anybody can tell about cloth and other materials by touch, feel, and appearance. That includes tailors and shirtmakers, believe it or not. We buy stuff like SG chambray on reputation, which is the only metric that can be relied on with any consistency, but then tell ourselves that our refined senses pickup on the intrinsic quality. Well, when I find out a loved cloth is part polyester, that destroys the maker's reputation, humbles me, and makes me doubt everyone who still sticks up for the stuff.

Don't fool yourselves. In men's clothing, reputation is everything, and it always trumps what you think you feel between your fingers.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]