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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 55

post #811 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Actually, looking at the swatch and my computer screen right now, the fabric in real life is less mottled than it appears online. Not sure why my camera captured what it did.

Bah. Much less mottling?
post #812 of 1166
...
Edited by dieworkwear - 5/3/13 at 6:54pm
post #813 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Not at all. It's similar to SG's chambray, but looser woven.

If we could get them to source a lighter blue, I'd be up for going in on a special run. Don't know if they can do that, however, since they're just a merchant and not a mill.

Their website says they'll order custom runs, but I bet the minimums are high.
post #814 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Much much less. My camera and photography skills apparently suck.

The traditional oxford is really good though.

Talk about false expectations! smile.gif

Am in for a custom run if it materializes.
post #815 of 1166
Thread Starter 
My chambray is on its way back to Torsten. It is indeed part polyester--says SG itself. Stay the fuck away from Simonnot-Godard.

Shirtmaven vindicated again.
post #816 of 1166
Who is Torsten? What about the one shirt now?
post #817 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Torsten is SG's distributor in Denmark. He runs the blog The Journal of Style and the web shop Grunwald. He's like the Danish version of Will of ASW.

I bought the chambray from him. A couple of days ago he got on the phone with me to tell me SG told him the cloth I have is part polyester. In fact, all of their chambray, regardless of type, is part polyster. They even added that it has had polyester in it for the past 30 years, including what is sent to places like Rubinacci.

I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end. The high-end men's clothing industry is full of hucksters. Sadly, Simonnot Godard is one of them.
post #818 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Torsten is SG's distributor in Denmark. He runs the blog The Journal of Style and the web shop Grunwald. He's like the Danish version of Will of ASW.

I bought the chambray from him. A couple of days ago he got on the phone with me to tell me SG told him the cloth I have is part polyester. In fact, all of their chambray, regardless of type, is part polyster. They even added that it has had polyester in it for the past 30 years, including what is sent to places like Rubinacci.

I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end. The high-end men's clothing industry is full of hucksters. Sadly, Simonnot Godard is one of them.
The end on end will look great on more formal shirt, cannot see it as great button dows, even the 80/2 looks too fine.

Does the Chambray need to be SG or nothing, my bug with it it was that was a shirting worth less the 6 euro per meter but they were selling it at Riva prices. You would love the Bonfanti version but is still on the high price side, Albini is great as well and there is a merchant that is having Albini rolls washed the same way that denim is, and amongst the various colour I have seen one that is close to the SG version. Also, at a slightly higher weight, you can get 100% cotton chambray at 6 euro per meter...
post #819 of 1166
Did they mention whether the looms were 18th century or only 19th?
post #820 of 1166
You won't be disappointed with the Alumo.

I like the second lightest shade myself.
post #821 of 1166
Maybe they can guarantee the polyester is from 1972, the golden age of man-made textiles?
post #822 of 1166
does this mean I have to burn mine?
post #823 of 1166
BTW, I agree, no BDs in end on end.
post #824 of 1166
I think you're rushing to judgment here, foo. I'd urge you to go the mass spec route:

massspectrometer.jpg
post #825 of 1166
button down in end on end is seriously old school 1960's look.

everything from Phillips boyne comes from asia
older 44/45" will be from Japan. the basic broadcloth is ok.

59/60" fabrics are out of China.

the minimums for specific fabric is at least 1000 yards.

It was worth the second degree burns on my fingers to prove I was right.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]