The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

I have manchette this style!

Enough foreplay, let's see pics of the OneShirt.

^^^That's what she said.

HOLY ****.

It turns out, Simonnot Godard makes a "new chambray," and it is not the voile. Read here:
http://www.tweedinthecity.com/2013/04/03/this-is-not-the-chambray-youre-looking-for/

Whether it's what you were looking for, I think it looks fantastic.

It's nice looking stuff, for sure. The blue is exactly the right blue.

I thought the same thing when I first got the pink from Will. At first I thought it was the voile. Double checked my order. I ordered the chambray.

Did you examine the warp and weft? That is the surefire way to tell. To be chambray, the weft should be white and the warp all one color (red, blue, etc.).



mymil said:

Whether it's what you were looking for, I think it looks fantastic.

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+1

Change anyone's opinions on how to make it up?



mafoofan said:

Change anyone's opinions on how to make it up?

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If anything, this makes me more confident in my view that these shirts should be made to take cufflinks and that you should just get OCBDs in addition to the OneShirt.

Oh, I think the single cuffs are really happening.

It turns out, Simmonnot Godard makes at least two kinds of chambray, in addition to the voile some have confusingly taken to calling “new chambray.” Or, they made one kind before, and now make a different sort. The rougher, denim-like chambray I was hoping for is (was?) woven on centuries-old looms in half-meter widths. This more refined chambray is woven in modern, whole meter widths on newer looms (probably the same as used for the voile). It has none of the “fuzz” I was envisioning, but that may change after a washing or two. The weave is much finer and the hand magnitudes smoother. There is none of the porousness I expected.

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I'm confused. Isn't the "real" chambray Will was selling 150 cm? He sells it by the half meter, but it's 150 cm wide.

The joke there was that there ain't no such thing as 60" shirt fabric coming off centuries old looms. At least, I don't think there is.

Have you tried Bonfanti's chambray? I prefer it to both sorts of SG chambray, because I prefer the slightly greyer blue. They are done on full metre width looms, but in hand and durability, I can't spot a difference with the SG half metre sort. Its just as "fuzzy" too.



Ataturk said:

I'm confused. Isn't the "real" chambray Will was selling 150 cm?

The joke there was that there ain't no such thing as 60" shirt fabric coming off centuries old looms. At least, I don't think there is.

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Yes, that's exactly the point. There have been at least two different chambrays coming out of Simonnot Godard (not counting the voile). The rough, denim-like stuff was woven in the shorter width you're talking about--because it came off of the really old looms. This newer chambray obviously comes off more modern looms, given the whole meter width and frayed selvedge. It sounds like the rougher stuff may not be made anymore.

The voile is a whole different animal from either of the two chambrays. As discussed in my blog, the warp and weft tell the story. So, what Will calls "new chambray" is voile, but Simonnot Godard also makes a new chambray that is new chambray.