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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 51

post #751 of 1166
How does removing a couple of links from the chain alter the sentimental value of a cufflink?
And also, since this is going to be a OneShirt, if you don't alter your existing cufflinks doesn't that mean you'll never wear them again? That's some way to a treat gifts from your wife. Unless you're reserving those for french cuff shirts that you'll continue to wear on occasion.
post #752 of 1166
Any jeweler can take links out of the chain.

So, I wore my one chambray shirt yesterday. I don't know if it has poly or not. It's very rough though. There is no sign of pilling. Though I use a very good and gentle cleaner and all my shirts, even the oldest ones are still in very good shape.
post #753 of 1166
Thread Starter 
My favorite cufflink is not chained normally. It has a large central link with hallmarks on it. That's honestly the only one I'm worried about. It was my wife's wedding gift to me and I wore it when we got married.

Manton--which chambray are we talking about?
post #754 of 1166
That's the point, I don't know which one. I have one made up that is fuzzy and thick, then I have two pieces not made up that are more like voile.
post #755 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

That's the point, I don't know which one. I have one made up that is fuzzy and thick, then I have two pieces not made up that are more like voile.

Hmm. Well, you can always burn it.

Otherwise, see if you can recall whether the fuzzy stuff was whole width or half width. If half width, it is off of the old looms and may not have polyester. If whole width, it's prolly got poly.

The non-fuzzy stuff that isn't voile should be like what I have. Did you read my account of what Eugene at Geneva and Stephen Kempson thought of the chambray I brought in? It's on this page or the one before. Eugene mentioned you had brought him something similar.
post #756 of 1166
Mine was half. I remember that because I thought I had enough for two and when I brought it in, turned out, whoops, there wasn't.
post #757 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Mine was half. I remember that because I thought I had enough for two and when I brought it in, turned out, whoops, there wasn't.

Wow, so you have bonafide old-loomed SG chambray.

Can you cut it up and lend me a piece?
post #758 of 1166
It sounds to me from your description that what you have is more like a mid point between my fuzzy shirt and the voiles. The latter are very thin and sheer and even a little shiny.
post #759 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

It sounds to me from your description that what you have is more like a mid point between my fuzzy shirt and the voiles. The latter are very thin and sheer and even a little shiny.

In weight, probably. But voile is a different species of shirting, no? It's defined by an open weave and high-twist yarns. This stuff is plain-woven without any particular openness. The yarns are supposedly high-twist, though. Also, it has the defining feature of chambray: a white weft plus single-colored warp in a plain weave.

So, I guess you could have a chambray voile--plain, open weave, with a white weft and single-colored warp. Or something. But that's not this.
post #760 of 1166
voile should be practically see through, which these are not. I dunno. I am not buring them, I can tell you that. Might even make them this year since it's all the rage for 2013.
post #761 of 1166
Thread Starter 
You probably have what I have: the new-loomed chambray. It is most definitely chambray. You can tell by looking at the ends. It just isn't the old loosey-goosey stuff.
post #762 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

That's the point, I don't know which one. I have one made up that is fuzzy and thick, then I have two pieces not made up that are more like voile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Any jeweler can take links out of the chain.

So, I wore my one chambray shirt yesterday. I don't know if it has poly or not. It's very rough though. There is no sign of pilling. Though I use a very good and gentle cleaner and all my shirts, even the oldest ones are still in very good shape.


I guessing we have the same two cloths (both from ASW?).

I don't know if these photos are of any use whatsoever in identifying these but here's the chambray I have--
(white balance is effed but shows the texture)






I've taken to calling this one voile (because that's what it looks like to me) but I think Will calls it 'new chambray' or something like that.







T4 / foo.gif - you guys are talking about something alltogether different, right?
post #763 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Yes. That stuff with the Canon lens cap is the SG voile. It is not chambray. You can tell by looking at the yarn ends. Will from ASW called it "new chambray," at one point, which confuses the discussion.

What I have is actually chambray from SG. However, it is not the rough stuff T4 has. It is a smoother, more refined shirting. I've been calling it "new-loomed chambray" or "new chambray."
post #764 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I told him the whole Simonnot Godard story (the chambray, the other chambrays, the polyester, etc.).

 

At what point did he threaten to shoot himself (or you)?
post #765 of 1166
Gotcha.

Sorry for the TL / DR but which has the polyester? The new-loomed / smoother stuff that you have or the ruff stuff that I have?


Have you considered a nice end-on-end? An Alumo 120s or 140s? I probably wear that stuff 60% of the time between the two lightest shades - goes with just about anything IMO.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]