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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 44

post #646 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

Have you washed it yet? There's no telling how it will feel after a trip through the laundry.

True. Not yet.
post #647 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

when I was younger, "chambray" was all the rage. This would have been the mid to late 80s. I don't know what it was exactly but it looked like light weight denim. Lighter and softer. It was a very popular shirting. Though no one said "shirting" then needless to say. I remember that I had one from polo that I wore until it died. Styled like an OCBD. also, there was a California cheap clothing company called "miller's outpost" that used to advertize on all my favorite low-end UHF channels, KTLA, KOFY and the like, and they were always hawking their "chambray"

mine is still going strong, as seldom as I wear it. hence my initial confusion at Foo's original premise.
post #648 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post

mine is still going strong, as seldom as I wear it. hence my initial confusion at Foo's original premise.

What's my original premise?
post #649 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

What's my original premise?
a spread-collar, links-cuff dress shirt in chambray cloth. seemed bizarre, given my then-current understanding of chambray.
post #650 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

How is the quality of this shirting from contracted manufacturers? Is it all from Asia?

Chambray for the example was merde! Was no from Asia, was from France, also Belgique!
post #651 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hws View Post

Chambray for the example was merde! Was no from Asia, was from France, also Belgique!

I'm confused.

What do you know about the chambray I have? The finer, smoother version.
post #652 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post

a spread-collar, links-cuff dress shirt in chambray cloth. seemed bizarre, given my then-current understanding of chambray.

I think you're misunderstanding what kind of chambray is being talked about. The stuff Matt has is rather fine and smooth. It's very similar to end on end, but has a barely perceptible slubbiness and slightly more depth in color. To anyone looking at the shirt from more than 2 feet away, it would like any regular dress shirting.

There seems to be something like 3-4 versions of SG chambray. I think all of them would be fine for business use, but the one Matt has is the easiest to wear in style he's talking about.
post #653 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I'm confused.

What do you know about the chambray I have? The finer, smoother version.

SG chambray I am having is old production, also some kind merde, no some thing special, my shirts maker have buy much old production, no only chambray, more other, from SG much year before, immediate before SG change production. He check old invoice, it say chambray he buy 100% cotton. He no make fire test yet, I remember he tell me he no like SG chambray, but he buy this tissu because much maniac ask shirt this tissu because maniac think is some thing special because other (may be Mariano, Anna) say is so special! I have make like imbécile/crétin, have buy shirt of this tissu! Putain!

Some SG tissu is ok tissu, some is connerie, for example tissu à carreaux of SG some time have carreaux on same piece tissu have differing dimension, the carreau close of lisière 1 cm differing of carreau of centre! Also I remember my shirts maker show to me he inspect SG tissu plein weave before of cut, he circle all defect on tissu, much this defect of this tissu no have noeud tie to lisière for to indicate defect, is so much defect he must to look et trouver him self for to cut around which was no trouvé by tisserand qualité contrôl.

Probablement your tissu is produce of tisserand en France ou Belgique SG make contract to. SG have try both. I no know which is SG decide, maybe this day SG use both, or other, I no know. Can to be difficult have consistent production when tisserand have problem, for example bank rupt, must to find other tisserand for to make tissu, also there some time problem of facility of tissu finish, I know some times for SG the finish facility was make bad processing of tissu pièce, tissu pièce cannot to be sell, must to be throw away, tisserand must to make again this tissu pièce from beginning!

I have also shirt of SG voile, is ok, I no love. You speak your SG chambray is more similar of voile, no?
post #654 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I think you're misunderstanding what kind of chambray is being talked about. The stuff Matt has is rather fine and smooth. It's very similar to end on end, but has a barely perceptible slubbiness and slightly more depth in color. To anyone looking at the shirt from more than 2 feet away, it would like any regular dress shirting.
(...)

yes - I thought I'd made that clear from my use of the past tense.

BTW: sorry your Mercer shirt didn't work out. Great post though.
post #655 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hws View Post

I have also shirt of SG voile, is ok, I no love. You speak your SG chambray is more similar of voile, no?

I don't know if it is similar to the voile, as I've never seen the voile in person. However, it is certainly more fine than the rougher type of chambray thought to be more typical of SG. This is the chambray I have:

TITC_04032013_02.jpg
post #656 of 1166
I decided to wear the much-maligned chambray today given all this talk. I don't think I've worn it since the Fall.
post #657 of 1166
bad day for it, too warm. I wore oxford yesterday and regretted it. It's almost linen cotton weather.
post #658 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

bad day for it, too warm. I wore oxford yesterday and regretted it. It's almost linen cotton weather.

I think I run colder than you. I am also wearing a 13 oz Smith's botany suit and it is still a little chilly in my office. I wore a lesser 16 ounce DB yesterday and I got a little warm in the afternoon.
post #659 of 1166
scroll down on the vox blog and he has posted pics of "chambray" that looks like the old Miller's Outpost stuff.
post #660 of 1166
Is that SG chambray in the close up?

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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]