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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 43

post #631 of 1166
I have that too. Shirt is fine so far, although it has shrank more than other stuff.
post #632 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I have that too. Shirt is fine so far, although it has shrank more than other stuff.

That's sort of odd, since synthetics usually help curb shrinkage. Weave makes a difference too, of course. Based on yours and ET's experiences, maybe it's the case that Will sold the 100% cotton old chambray at one point?
post #633 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Not sure - it's certainly the rougher / fuzzier version than the one you bought. I got mine from ASW.

Well, there are at least two versions of the "rougher / fuzzier" stuff. I only tested the version that is modern-loomed (which you can tell by the full-width of the shirting). There was also an old-loomed version in half-width dimensions that may have been 100% cotton.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I don't wear 200s shirting very much, but if I did, I would wear it with tweed if the colors and patterns were right. But as is, the few very fine shirtings I have are white and maybe one very pale blue.

Agreed. I'm not sure what the thread fineness has got to do with anything. A 120s and 200s shirt don't necessarily look much different. It's the feel that distinguishes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I have that too. Shirt is fine so far, although it has shrank more than other stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctp120 View Post

That's sort of odd, since synthetics usually help curb shrinkage. Weave makes a difference too, of course.

It's probably the loose, irregular weave that allows for so much shrinkage. Also, did you guys check whether your stuff is old-loomed? If so, it may not have any polyester in it.
post #634 of 1166
I don't know. Will got some in and I ordered it, like a lot of people, and was surprised when it was basically voile. Then he got some more and said it was the true fuzzy stuff and I got one length of that. Thought I was getting two but only one showed up. He ran out after that.
post #635 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuro View Post

yes, very crisp.

perfect for summer.

Kuro, if either you or T4 identified this cloth, I missed it. Can you tell us what it is? (Sorry if you already did so up-thread.)
post #636 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kei-bon View Post

Kuro, if either you or T4 identified this cloth, I missed it. Can you tell us what it is? (Sorry if you already did so up-thread.)

Unfortuantely I don't have much information.

The shirt is from Charvet and the fabric was in one of their binders (and they don't openly identify their fabrics).

I can try to take a better photo if it will help or perhaps T4 knows the actual name/who makes it...
post #637 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Well, there are at least two versions of the "rougher / fuzzier" stuff. I only tested the version that is modern-loomed (which you can tell by the full-width of the shirting). There was also an old-loomed version in half-width dimensions that may have been 100% cotton.
Agreed. I'm not sure what the thread fineness has got to do with anything. A 120s and 200s shirt don't necessarily look much different. It's the feel that distinguishes.

It's probably the loose, irregular weave that allows for so much shrinkage. Also, did you guys check whether your stuff is old-loomed? If so, it may not have any polyester in it.

The thread fineness in shirting, much like suiting, contributes to the relative fineness of the cloth. Much of what is called chambray is made of yarns that are nowhere near 120's, much less 200's, For example, as stated above, Bonfanti's chambray, Levanto, is 40/2 x 30/1 and looks and feels entirely different from anything made from 120-200's yarns. The roughness of the fabric and the alternating colors combine to approximate the look and feel of denim, which I think is incongruous with business wear. I don't know the fineness of the yarn in SG's cloth, but I bet it is significantly coarser than 100's. In particular, the "old" stuff is probably no more than 30's and as a result, looks like work shirt material.

The work shirt look is ameliorated by using finer cloth (n my view a good thing in dress shirting) and as you get into end on ends of 120's and finer, you get a completely different animal than the SG cloth I have seen
post #638 of 1166
Mine was old-loomed, so perhaps I scored some of the 100% cotton one.
post #639 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Mine was old-loomed, so perhaps I scored some of the 100% cotton one.
so the fabric was 36" wide?
and the end of the fabric was solid... no fuzzy edge?
post #640 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post


so the fabric was 36" wide?
and the end of the fabric was solid... no fuzzy edge?

 

1. Yes

2. Honestly don't remember

post #641 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

1. Yes
2. Honestly don't remember
then if narrow, you got old stuff.
no one ever brought me narrow SG chambray
post #642 of 1166
No always tissu narrow (for SG narrow = 95 cm) of SG have lisière smooth, some time SG tissu narrow have lisière no smooth blush.gif

Old loom = old method, but no some big magic

SG loom no from before of 1800, no so ancient! This days SG make only tissu for mouchoir in SG factory, tissus chemises other tisserand make for the SG!
post #643 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hws View Post

This days SG make only tissu for mouchoir in SG factory, tissus chemises other tisserand make for the SG!

How is the quality of this shirting from contracted manufacturers? Is it all from Asia?
post #644 of 1166
Thread Starter 
I've been inspecting the "new" chambray some more. For what it's worth, it does feel different from a typical plain-woven shirting. The hand is very dry and crisp, lending credence to the claim that SG specs the yarns to be tightly twisted. Oddly, you'd think that would reduce any fuzzy, hairiness--which, indeed, this stuff entirely lacks.
post #645 of 1166
Have you washed it yet? There's no telling how it will feel after a trip through the laundry.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]