Originally Posted by mafoofan
Well, there are at least two versions of the "rougher / fuzzier" stuff. I only tested the version that is modern-loomed (which you can tell by the full-width of the shirting). There was also an old-loomed version in half-width dimensions that may have been 100% cotton.
Agreed. I'm not sure what the thread fineness has got to do with anything. A 120s and 200s shirt don't necessarily look much different. It's the feel that distinguishes.
It's probably the loose, irregular weave that allows for so much shrinkage. Also, did you guys check whether your stuff is old-loomed? If so, it may not have any polyester in it.
The thread fineness in shirting, much like suiting, contributes to the relative fineness of the cloth. Much of what is called chambray is made of yarns that are nowhere near 120's, much less 200's, For example, as stated above, Bonfanti's chambray, Levanto, is 40/2 x 30/1 and looks and feels entirely different from anything made from 120-200's yarns. The roughness of the fabric and the alternating colors combine to approximate the look and feel of denim, which I think is incongruous with business wear. I don't know the fineness of the yarn in SG's cloth, but I bet it is significantly coarser than 100's. In particular, the "old" stuff is probably no more than 30's and as a result, looks like work shirt material.
The work shirt look is ameliorated by using finer cloth (n my view a good thing in dress shirting) and as you get into end on ends of 120's and finer, you get a completely different animal than the SG cloth I have seen