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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 36

post #526 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

If I were only having one shirt made, I would take the old. If I were getting six made, I would take the new.

Yeah, they are definitely two different animals, and the old style is the one I had wanted. However, I've learned a lot about this stuff over the past few days. Some of what I've found out might be very surprising to people and change some minds. So, I'll be doing some tests this weekend. Let's see what happens.
post #527 of 1166
I prefer the old one, but why not have both? Perhaps the old for buttondowns and the new for wearing with suit and tie? I know that negates the purpose of the "one" shirt, but couldn't it be the "almost one" shirt?
post #528 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

I prefer the old one, but why not have both? Perhaps the old for buttondowns and the new for wearing with suit and tie? I know that negates the purpose of the "one" shirt, but couldn't it be the "almost one" shirt?

1. I've already sunk too much into purchasing the new stuff.

2. You'll see.
post #529 of 1166
Is the old chambray still available for purchase? I only have the new stuff.

Carl posted a nice photo of some chambray he had, I think in the Unfunded Liabilities thread. It would be interesting to see all three swatches side by side. I remember his being quite nice (and really affordable, apparently).
post #530 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I just received a swatch of the "old" Simonnot Godard chambray in the mail. Here is old versus new, side-by-side:

oldnewchambray_zps8142d690.jpg

Not even remotely the same kind of shirting. For better or worse, the old-style is clearly much more irregular--both in the weaving and coloration. If you look carefully, the dye density in the blue yarns varies quite a bit. In contrast, the blue yarns in the new-style chambray appear to have taken the dye much more evenly.

Where do you get the fabric? Can you share the source? I prefer the old one.
post #531 of 1166
Thread Starter 
I'm not aware of where you can get the "old" style chambray anymore. I've heard some say it is no longer made, while others say it is, but will not sell it.
post #532 of 1166
I am still failing too see what is so great about this SG chambray as compared to chambray or end on end from any of the other well known mills.
post #533 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I am still failing too see what is so great about this SG chambray as compared to chambray or end on end from any of the other well known mills.

The "old" stuff is very unique looking for dress shirting. The color variegation is more like hazy fogging than the cross-hatching you get with non-chambray end-on-ends. Like denim. It doesn't sound like any of the serious, high-end mills make anything like it. Well, except for maybe Bonfanti, but I haven't seen any examples yet. Some would say there is good reason for this, and you can find similar stuff for much less money, as made for casual, sporty clothing and workwear. I'm beginning to believe they are right and there is no intrinsic magic to the stuff--it's just a common product being marketed in an uncommon context. One theory is that it is truly made for work uniforms in France. Sounds ridiculous given the pricing, but who said everyone pays the same price? Remember: France.

The new stuff . . . well, the jury is out. It still looks different from typical end-on-end, but there is really nothing denim-like about it. The variegation is all linear and parallel. There is no "hair" to it. Yet, if you look at the old stuff, the "hair" probably isn't a good thing. It's fibers coming off the yarns. That doesn't speak well to its quality, and the uneven weaving is also questionable. The newer version seems much sounder.
post #534 of 1166
FME, new new chambray is slubbier than end-on-end, and the color has more depth, but this is only true if you don't burn it.
post #535 of 1166
I remember seeing fabrics just like this with the "hair" and nap at a fabric trade show a few years ago from a mill in China. They called them "Brushed End on End". No idea what they were called, but their offerings were cheap as dirt if you bought over 3000 yards.
post #536 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

FME, new new chambray is slubbier than end-on-end, and the color has more depth, but this is only true if you don't burn it.

This does appear to be true visually in pictures. Most end on end can feel just as slick as broadcloth. Chambray has more texture.
post #537 of 1166
I would like to learn about this burn testing of fabrics. Sounds like perhaps Foo is going to perform some of it this weekend? If he or anyone else does burn some SG chambray could you please video tape and post to Youtube for all of our benefit. It would make this thread awesome!
post #538 of 1166
I dare anyone to make a blunt out of S&G chambray
post #539 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I dare anyone to make a blunt out of S&G chambray

I have secret intelligence that tells me SWD plans to burn a chambray flag, in order to incite us to riot. We must stay strong.



post #540 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I dare anyone to make a blunt out of S&G chambray

I would, but I get randomly weft tested at work.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]