or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 28

post #406 of 1166
I have manchette this style! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #407 of 1166

Enough foreplay, let's see pics of the OneShirt.

post #408 of 1166
^^^That's what she said.
post #409 of 1166
Thread Starter 
HOLY FUCK.

It turns out, Simonnot Godard makes a "new chambray," and it is not the voile. Read here:
http://www.tweedinthecity.com/2013/04/03/this-is-not-the-chambray-youre-looking-for/

TITC_04032013_01.jpg
post #410 of 1166

Whether it's what you were looking for, I think it looks fantastic.

post #411 of 1166
Thread Starter 
It's nice looking stuff, for sure. The blue is exactly the right blue.
post #412 of 1166
I thought the same thing when I first got the pink from Will. At first I thought it was the voile. Double checked my order. I ordered the chambray.
post #413 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Did you examine the warp and weft? That is the surefire way to tell. To be chambray, the weft should be white and the warp all one color (red, blue, etc.).
post #414 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mymil View Post

Whether it's what you were looking for, I think it looks fantastic.

+1
post #415 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Change anyone's opinions on how to make it up?
post #416 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Change anyone's opinions on how to make it up?

If anything, this makes me more confident in my view that these shirts should be made to take cufflinks and that you should just get OCBDs in addition to the OneShirt.
post #417 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Oh, I think the single cuffs are really happening.
post #418 of 1166
Quote:
It turns out, Simmonnot Godard makes at least two kinds of chambray, in addition to the voile some have confusingly taken to calling “new chambray.” Or, they made one kind before, and now make a different sort. The rougher, denim-like chambray I was hoping for is (was?) woven on centuries-old looms in half-meter widths. This more refined chambray is woven in modern, whole meter widths on newer looms (probably the same as used for the voile). It has none of the “fuzz” I was envisioning, but that may change after a washing or two. The weave is much finer and the hand magnitudes smoother. There is none of the porousness I expected.

I'm confused. Isn't the "real" chambray Will was selling 150 cm? He sells it by the half meter, but it's 150 cm wide.

The joke there was that there ain't no such thing as 60" shirt fabric coming off centuries old looms. At least, I don't think there is.
post #419 of 1166

Have you tried Bonfanti's chambray?  I prefer it to both sorts of SG chambray, because I prefer the slightly greyer blue.  They are done on full metre width looms, but in hand and durability, I can't spot a difference with the SG half metre sort.  Its just as "fuzzy" too.

post #420 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post

I'm confused. Isn't the "real" chambray Will was selling 150 cm?

The joke there was that there ain't no such thing as 60" shirt fabric coming off centuries old looms. At least, I don't think there is.

Yes, that's exactly the point. There have been at least two different chambrays coming out of Simonnot Godard (not counting the voile). The rough, denim-like stuff was woven in the shorter width you're talking about--because it came off of the really old looms. This newer chambray obviously comes off more modern looms, given the whole meter width and frayed selvedge. It sounds like the rougher stuff may not be made anymore.

The voile is a whole different animal from either of the two chambrays. As discussed in my blog, the warp and weft tell the story. So, what Will calls "new chambray" is voile, but Simonnot Godard also makes a new chambray that is new chambray.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]