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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 27

post #391 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Thanks for showing that--I think I'd want a wider spread BD with more roll.
yes, and more tie space too
post #392 of 1166
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

yes, and more tie space too

Ah, true. I usually don't like tie space, but it is necessary and good on a BD.
post #393 of 1166
Foo, I posted this in the Luxire thread after you asked there about their BD collars, but here it is in case you missed it.

Poofed:
AppleMark

And not so poofed:
AppleMark
post #394 of 1166
Thread Starter 
That's looking pretty good! I don't understand what you did to make one different from the other though.
post #395 of 1166
^ Looking at the left side in the top pic, the collar curves outward instead of inward in, creating that asynchronous look that was applauded in some old BD illustrations recently.
post #396 of 1166
^Thanks. I took my jacket off to snap a quick pic. But after looking at it, I noticed the collar was kind of pressed down from the jacket. So I took a second pic after pulling up the right collar a bit. The second pic above is the first one I took.

I probably could have shaped it to made it look really nice, but these are pretty spontaneous shots that show the sought-after bell shape. It's a delight to wear. I've also been getting the cuffs unlined. Love the softness.

Edit: oops that was to Foo. Interesting about the asymmetry though, K.
post #397 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

yes, and more tie space too

Really?

My P Johnson BD has more tie space and a wider spread, but for some strange reason, I prefer this one.

May post a pic sometime.
post #398 of 1166
Not the best pic, since the collar point is caught on my lapel, but I like this BD collar shape from Barba.

post #399 of 1166
My own experience is that the "roll" depends mostly on where the buttons are located. That, or if you don't like the way your collar looks, tilt your head a little.

Also, notwithstanding the many claims to the contrary, that look seems to come more naturally with an interfaced collar rather than an unlined one.

Maybe this has all already been covered--the thread is much too long.
post #400 of 1166
You thinking of getting your single cuffs curved, Foo? It provides a more finished look, IMO





The iPhone lens exaggerates the curve and cuff size just a bit. The drop is only 1.5 cm
post #401 of 1166
Thread Starter 
I wanted them to have rounded corners--I wasn't quite envisioning what you're showing.
post #402 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I wanted them to have rounded corners--I wasn't quite envisioning what you're showing.

In person, it's not as dramatic as the pics would suggest. And, were I to do it again, I would flatten the apex and decrease the drop to about 1.0 cm. I find the gentle curve a more elegant finish than the more usual rounded corners.
post #403 of 1166
Thread Starter 
It's interesting, but you are still leaving a sharp corner behind. The main reason I wound to round off the cuff is to save on wear-and-tear.
post #404 of 1166
True. I wonder how it would look overall with a more rounded finish? I may check with my shirt maker and see how good he is with more complex curves...
post #405 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Ah, true. I usually don't like tie space, but it is necessary and good on a BD.

I don't like tie space on any collar, including BD's. Is a BD with little to no tie space "wrong."
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]