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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY,... - Page 75

post #1111 of 1166

That might hold true in some cases, but I think in many other cases it's just clothing "nerds" wanting to satisfy their curiosity and interest. Which is nothing bad IMO.

 

Honestly, I don't think anyone would notice how "different" your waterfall sleeveheads or surgeon cuffs are in real life, so there's no real point in showing off the "bespokeness" of your garment. When I ask for some eccentric detail, I do it for myself.

post #1112 of 1166
For a non-SF, non-denimite, it just looks like a stripe. Hardly showy.
post #1113 of 1166
Anyway, the shirt looks to be handstitched, and I think those details look nice. I wonder if Gerald and Diana are able to take online orders, or if you have to visit their shop to get fitted for a shirt.
post #1114 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron 
for me this is the detail that prevents the shirt from being worn with a jacket. for chambray shirts to not be limited to casual wear they have to have only few details and a decent collar.



that selvedge strap to me is like a buttoned V-pocket on a plain white dress shirt.

For me, the fabric already limits it to casual.

I find myself uncharacteristically unbothered by the selvedge on an obviously casual shirt.

 

I agree, chambray is a casual fabric I wouldn't pair it with a suit, but I'd wear it with an odd tweed jacket, a wool tie and denim.

 



Here I thought however that this gimmicky contrast pushes it over the top into the "no jacket" zone. The more I think about it I though, I agree with SB and redact my opinion, the contrast selvedge disappears when fully buttoned and I'd probably wear it even with a jacket.

 

It's a nice shirt indubitable, the collar role is very nice.

post #1115 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Must we hate on everything? It's a very small detail, inconsequential. It would neither entice me to buy the shirt nor prevent my buying it.


I'm not hating on it. I just don't like it, and yes it would prevent me from buying it.

Also, it's been done 1000x by the workwear brands for about 5 years to the point that Jcrew and Gap now sell the same gimmick.

Now obviously that Vanda one is much nicer than the mall brand stuff, but it's still a detail that I find gimmicky.
post #1116 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Here's C. Davidson using the selvedge down a pair of trousers

http://thetrad.blogspot.com/2012/05/opportunity-at-andover.html

 

However well made, those are absolutely horrible and the 'selvedge' in that case is like wearing the label outside. Gauche, in other words. And please no-one try to tell me it's 'ironic'. Marimekko fabrics are fantastic, mind you - all of the curtains in our house are Marimekko. Enough said, I think.

post #1117 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Anyway, the shirt looks to be handstitched, and I think those details look nice. I wonder if Gerald and Diana are able to take online orders, or if you have to visit their shop to get fitted for a shirt.

Last i asked, which was a few months ago, they were only doing full bespoke, which requires fittings in person.
post #1118 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

 

However well made, those are absolutely horrible and the 'selvedge' in that case is like wearing the label outside. Gauche, in other words. And please no-one try to tell me it's 'ironic'. Marimekko fabrics are fantastic, mind you - all of the curtains in our house are Marimekko. Enough said, I think.

 

Those are FU pants in the trad tradition. I'd never wear them, but like the concept. Agree the 'selvedge' is taking too far; in fact, to me it would seem to be outside the ethos of trad, but I'm not an enthusiast, take it with a grain... One can tell they are Marimekko just by seeing the print. 

post #1119 of 1166
I like them and I would wear them.
post #1120 of 1166
Just got around to put the fabrics together for comparison:
In the middle two Chambrays, the lighter one is SG cotton/poly old style, and the blu denim one is from the English source mentioned early. The two small sample cuts are handwoven organic cotton cambric fabrics, but as the cotton is not bleached, these have a dirty look nog to my taste. I have also included two shirts, the lighter one is an Albini end on end, the slightly darker end on end is from a very cheep italian source. Also in the picture from the bottom left corner, Alumo soyella end on end, Bonfanti Dallas end on end (the finest of all), tops other end on ends from Alumo cards and the bottom right, end on end from Canclini 120/2 argento range. This is to shows that end on end and cambric/Chambrays are two different animals. I like end on end very much for my business shirts, have several more finer then the ones in the picture, do not see it well as substitute for chambray ...
post #1121 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Just got around to put the fabrics together for comparison:
In the middle two Chambrays, the lighter one is SG cotton/poly old style, and the blu denim one is from the English source mentioned early.

 

 

And who/what is this English chambray?

post #1122 of 1166

Chapman

post #1123 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Chapman

 

 

Cheers, I must give them a lash.

post #1124 of 1166
Any update on the progress of the shirts?
post #1125 of 1166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

This is pretty dope

Chambray caz by Vanda
http://blog.vandafineclothing.com/post/52859218921/selvedge-chambray-buttondown-bespoke-for-g-s

tumblr_mobtjuwPOH1r11940o1_1280.jpg

tumblr_mobtjuwPOH1r11940o3_1280.jpg

Fabric looks nice too - for a certain use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I personally don't care for the selvedge, but how is visible, nubby handstitching not equally fetishistic?
Sorry that I'm a little late to this, but the main difference between the two imo is the red in the selvedge. The similarity you point to is undeniable. But the red is more attention-getting if not also attention-seeking. If the selvedge was a thin white line, or maybe white and matching blue, I think it'd be fine. Just my opinion though, and not a very strong one. So I wouldn't buy it, but I might wear it.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND FIRE]