On the Importance of Tie Quality

Often times it's nice to get compliments about one's apparel, but even better when the positive remarks refer to the whole ensemble.

That said, the frequency and target of compliments have little if any, to do with the "quality." This applies to suits, jackets, pants, tie, shoes; essentially any article of clothing a man wears. The wearer feels the quality, those around him sees only the fit.

Specifically with ties, one cannot tell the intrinsic quality of a tie just by looking at it. Thus it's either the printed pattern or the woven geometrical picture that attract comments.

I like a compliment as much as the next person, but that does not figure into my choice of ties. I refer back to my original assertion that the presence of a small label/tag with a "designer" name is what motivates and thus justifies, to the buyer, the purchase of an expensive tie. And this is especially true on SF, although about 95% true also for AAAC.

Last I checked there is no visible label on ties that would work as a "look at me" part of the ensemble. Well, except for those damn garish ties with the gorgon's head, I forget the designer's name.

Originally Posted by lee_44106

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I refer back to my original assertion that the presence of a small label/tag with a "designer" name is what motivates and thus justifies, to the buyer, the purchase of an expensive tie. And this is especially true on SF, although about 95% true also for AAAC.
Which is why, to take a random sampling, a number of SF and AAAC regulars praise Carlo Franco and Sam Hober (a couple of relatively unknown internet-based companies), say that Brioni ties are so-so in the spectrum of great ties, and eschew Ferragamo and a number of other designer brands?

Originally Posted by josepidal

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Which is why, to take a random sampling, a number of SF and AAAC regulars praise Carlo Franco and Sam Hober (a couple of relatively unknown internet-based companies), say that Brioni ties are so-so in the spectrum of great ties, and eschew Ferragamo and a number of other designer brands?

Good point. I mean, hell, it is not like many - especially outside of these two fora - know who the hell either of them are.

A high quality tie can elevate the look of a cheaper suit, but a cheap tie will kill anything you put it with.

I buy almost all of my ties thrifting, but I only buy good stuff. You can tell the difference. There are some well made less expensive ties, however. Land's End is one good example.

Originally Posted by AlanC

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A high quality tie can elevate the look of a cheaper suit, but a cheap tie will kill anything you put it with.

I buy almost all of my ties thrifting, but I only buy good stuff. You can tell the difference. There are some well made less expensive ties, however. Land's End is one good example.

Their ties are actually good? Never seen them up close. Do you mean for the price or at discount? I have seen some patterns that looked nice but I did not think they were worth the price, maybe I was wrong.

Originally Posted by Augusto86

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I just wonder why I should spend more than, say $50 on a piece of silk that just hangs there. I guess the same could be said of any garment, but it's just more decoratively nonfunctional than most.

I agree and usually get most of mine at Marshall's/Burlington/TJ for $20-30. I can see differences in quality but a $20 Trump (as an example...flamesuit on) rates right up there with some of the best as far as hand, knot and ability to recover. And I've got a lot of $100+ ties from Italian makers given to me by my brother who frequently shops overseas.

The problem I see is that many are willing to pay $50 for a "bargain" Kiton, Brioni, etc that is suspect when it comes to size or pattern. Meanwhile there are a ton of ties that have the right width and better patterns available from "off-brands" like Beene, Colours, Trump and a zillion other Made In China companies for less than 1/2 that. I guess I like to mix it up and will rarely wear any particular tie more than 10 or 20 times (if that). So why spend the money for a tie that will last a "lifetime" when chances are I'll get bored with it or spill coffee, marinara, or something else on it.

With all that being said I can certainly appreciate the craftsmanship of ties like Chuck Franke's and see them as works of art...I've just got other things to do with my money.

The difference between the $20 Alby & the $20 Trump is massive. And both from TJ Maxx. And those Alby are a lot closer in quality to the CF I have, even though the woven ones pattern is sort of rougher so to speak.

Originally Posted by skalogre

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Their ties are actually good? Never seen them up close. Do you mean for the price or at discount? I have seen some patterns that looked nice but I did not think they were worth the price, maybe I was wrong.
Yeah, LE ties are quite good, and many of the older ones are also 3.5" or less wide, which is nice for us narrow people.

For me, its a mixture of brand loyalty as well as recognition of better silks*. Just given a random smattering of ties, most upmarket brands employ different or distinctive silk patterns and weights. More expensive does not necessarily correlate with a superior product, but I find that certain companies/makers, like the Barney's house label, compete much more favorably with the offerings from Kiton, Charvet, etc. than discounted Trump's, Nautica, etc. And, with a little last minute Barney's Warehouse shopping, a visit to Century 21 during sales time, or browsing the sales forum regularly, nice ties can be had for rarely more than $50-60 max.

*Brand loyalty defined as satisfied previous purchase rather than fixation with any particular label. For example, I have a strong preference for Holiday & Brown and Nicky rather than the more expensive and prestigious Charvet & Kiton. I don't like the majority of Kiton patterns and the Charvets I find beautiful never make it to the discount tables.

Originally Posted by josepidal

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Which is why, to take a random sampling, a number of SF and AAAC regulars praise Carlo Franco and Sam Hober (a couple of relatively unknown internet-based companies), say that Brioni ties are so-so in the spectrum of great ties, and eschew Ferragamo and a number of other designer brands?

Actually, what goes on on AAAC and SF with Carlo Franco ties is an example of the same thing. People buy those ties because those labels are popular on the forum, not necessarily because they know anything about the quality of the tie itself. That's not to say that those ties are not quality, but the impetus for members of the forum to buy CF ties is essentially the same impetus for members of the public to buy Hermes, Charvet or Brioni ties.

Originally Posted by norcaltransplant

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*Brand loyalty defined as satisfied previous purchase rather than fixation with any particular label. For example, I have a strong preference for Holiday & Brown and Nicky rather than the more expensive and prestigious Charvet & Kiton. I don't like the majority of Kiton patterns and the Charvets I find beautiful never make it to the discount tables.

I definitely agree. Once I find something that I like, I stick with it The vast majority of my regular width ties are Ermenegildo Zegna ties because I like the hand and knot of these ties better than any other ties I've tried. The vast majority of my narrow ties are BB University because I also like the way these look and knot. I get the Zegnas for about $45 at SOF or NMLC and I get the BBs on ebay for about $25. I own much more expensive ties, including a CF, Brioni, Turnbull, etc. and I don't think that they're any better than my Zegnas and BB ties.

Also, I don't see the point of spending a lot of money on something that is basically irreparably ruined if it gets dirty and which tends to get dirty quite easily.

Originally Posted by odoreater

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Actually, what goes on on AAAC and SF with Carlo Franco ties is an example of the same thing. People buy those ties because those labels are popular on the forum, not necessarily because they know anything about the quality of the tie itself. That's not to say that those ties are not quality, but the impetus for members of the forum to buy CF ties is essentially the same impetus for members of the public to buy Hermes, Charvet or Brioni ties.
What about return customers? Anyway, that may be far too much of as broad stroke, especially with all the people grumbling that the ties are not what they like pattern wise or the CS problems with CF... It was easy for me, I have three CF's whose pattern I really liked. I got one first which led to two more. Plus they were discounted at the time Plus if I needed to wear ties more often I would get more of the more utilitarian ties, probably for instance some of those Alby, Altea, Drake's etc that are readily available even in my area or online at a huge discount. P.s. the one Zegna I have is rather limp and soft but I loved its look. Judging by that however I doubt I would buy another one without handling it first.

This question could be asked of all clothes why spend more money? Just like there a differences in suits, shoes shirts there a differences in ties. Just because ties are simpler may seem the differences are smaller, but they are there. Personally I get more compliments when I wear my more expensive ties.

Originally Posted by DrCool1978

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This question could be asked of all clothes why spend more money? .

True! But I think the difference, as you metion below, is how big. There is actually a big difference in choosing between suit and shoe brands than there is over choosing tie brands . . . . IMHO, at least . . . .

Originally Posted by DrCool1978

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Just like there a differences in suits, shoes shirts there a differences in ties. Just because ties are simpler may seem the differences are smaller, but they are there. Personally I get more compliments when I wear my more expensive ties.

I don't think it's fair to say the "differences are smaller". I think this it's "exactly the point". IMHO, when a "better" tie can be had for less than an inferior brand name tie, there is a real judgement call involved . . .

Some of my favorite ties are actually Trump ties that can be bought in Macy's for about $30-40 bucks . . . . .

So educate me:

How does one determine the quality of a tie? What are the earmarks to look for? Do you just do a trial knot to see how it holds up?

Also, who makes narrower ties? Wool knit ties? I saw some nice wool ties in Freeman's Sports Club a couple of weeks ago, they had a wonderful texture to the hand, and I liked the matte, textured finish (no shine).


But when you're in those thrift/discount stores, what do you look at to determine a tie's quality?