I just got a first "test" shirt back from Graly shirtmakers in Wan Chai.
I had the shirt made up from measurements done by the owner, Tim Tang, in his shop. He had asked me if I had a favorite shirt I wanted them to duplicate, but I said I wanted to do one from measurements, since I have yet to find a shirt that fits me 'perfectly' and saw no need to copy a less-than-perfect shirt (the whole reason I'm going with custom in the first place!). I have "non-standard" measurements, so custom is pretty much my only option for getting a shirt that fits.
Tim speaks excellent English and is very professional, if a bit direct and humorless. When I walked into his shop I had a ton of questions about material, construction, the process, options, etc., and he patiently answered all of my questions without being dodgy (which is something you usually have to pay a premium for in HK).
Based on intel gathered from this and other forums and from my initial interaction with Tim, I decided to give them a shot.
Tim took down a range of measurements (neck, chest, waist, arm length, etc.) and then we discussed fabrics.
I had initially wanted to get a shirt made up in Thomas Mason (he has several books), but Tim talked me into using a new "Egyptian" cotton material he had just gotten in from Japan for the first shirt, just to make sure I wouldn't be out $100 USD for a shirt that wasn't quite right.
The hand on the white fabric was pretty good so I went with it. I didn't ask him the thread count, but I will next time I'm in and report back.
It took about a week to get the shirt back (but I think once you have your 'pattern' on file with them, turnaround can be quicker), and I tried it on in the shop to make sure I didn't have to come back if the fit wasn't right.
On first wearing, I found the fit to be a bit boxier than I had anticipated, and he made the typical tailor argument that you need to have a little more material than 'skin tight' to ensure comfort (I agree, but I was worried it might have been a little 'too much' extra). The collar fit well (neither too snug nor too loose, although it could probably stand to come in just a tad), and the sleeve length was dead on. I was still expressing some hesitation on the 'slimness' of the cut through the body, and he asked that I give it a wash and a couple wears, and then let him know if it still wasn't what I wanted.
I took it home, and put it through the wash, ironed it, and tried it on a few days later and the fit did, indeed 'settle in' a bit more, and I can say I'm pretty happy with this as a decent first shirt from Graly.
I walked away with a nice white shirt built to my specifications (point collar, two button, cropped edge cuffs, darts in the back, and long enough to tuck in) that looks great under a suit. Not bad for a first try.
I plan to return to Graly and have more shirts made (including a couple casual ones), but I will definitely make some changes for the next iteration (no darts, non sewn-in collar stays, bring in the taper a bit, maybe try different collar styles, maybe get one with split yoke, go with TM fabric).
I haven't had any shirts made at Jantzen (a seeming competitor on price), but I think I'll be sticking with Graly if we can get the fit just right. Shirts in the 'house' fabric run about $60 USD and Thomas Mason starts at about $100 USD.
Hope this helps others looking for custom shirts in Hong Kong that don't cost a fortune.