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Suggestion for a Tuxedo

post #1 of 21
3/14/13 at 1:43pm
Thread Starter 
So I am considering buying my first real tuxedo, these are the choices I have in mind

1. Color: Mid night blue, or just really really dark navy in general, I don't want black, don't ask me why
2. Lapel, either shawl or peak
3. Style: Single breast, not too bothered about number of buttons, double breast will be bad ass, but I don't think it has ever worked on me
4. Choices
a. Polo Ralph Lauren Bradford cut tuxedo (though they don't make the Bradford cut any more for whatever reason, not even MTM), so I guess I can only count on random ebay or styleforum find on this (I think they made this back in 2010)?
b. Polo Ralph Lauren dark blue Tuxedo, it's currently in stock, I am not sure which model it is based on, but arm hole is certainly a lot lower than Bradford or black label, otherwise I would have gone for this (1.7K?)
c. Ralph Lauren Black Label, this will have to be MTM since they only offer it in black (~2K? I can get cutting fee waved until end of this month), the only thing bothers me slightly is padding on the shoulder, that's why I had preference for Bradford
d. Brooks Brothers, again this has to be MTM (due to color), so ~2K, I have never went through BB's MTM program, but I assume I can pick which ever model I want (so either Milano or Fitzgerald, BBBF is not really my cup of tea) and whatever lapel option I want
e. Paul Stuart, I really would have to check on this in terms of price, though I think it will be significantly more than either Ralph Lauren or BB, correct me if I am wrong.

Any other suggestion in NYC otherwise? I can go to one of the tailors, but at ~2K range, I am not sure how many good choices I have.
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post #2 of 21
3/14/13 at 1:58pm
Have you tried any of these on? You might as well try the SuitSupply one too if you're in NYC
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post #3 of 21
3/14/13 at 2:25pm
Thread Starter 
I have tried PRL Bradford, but again it's not available anymore, I have RLBL suit and BB Milano suit, so I know how these look. I like Paul Stuart look, but pretty sure it's out my range (though I probably should check). Never tried SuitSupply, but is it comparable to the ones above?
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post #4 of 21
3/14/13 at 3:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I like Paul Stuart look, but pretty sure it's out my range (though I probably should check).

Phillips Tuxedo ($1987): http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6875&ProdCatId=1035&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=0
Phineas Cole Shawl Collar ($1987): http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=7037&ProdCatId=1079&MainCatId=19&HEADERMENUID=3&SUBPRODCATID=0
Phineas Cole Double Breasted Shawl Collar ($1487): http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6281&ProdCatId=1079&MainCatId=19&HEADERMENUID=3&SUBPRODCATID=0
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post #5 of 21
3/14/13 at 7:29pm
1. There's nothing wrong with midnight blue, but make sure it is truly midnight blue. Dark navy does not cut it.

2. I prefer shawl because it's the one main garment where one can wear a shawl lapel, but peak is slightly more formal. Both are perfectly fine in a black tie setting.

3. One button if single breasted. That's really the only choice. DB can be great, but you have to be sure about it before you do it. You don't want to not be excited to wear your one tuxedo if you do not like how DB, even when MTM, looks on you.

4. I would definitely go MTM in this price range. I'd think the amount of padding in the shoulder is something you could get changed in the MTM process. Do not get something advertised as "dark blue" as it will look off if it is not midnight blue. When do you need the tuxedo by? Have you considered options such as Chan?

Good luck.
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post #6 of 21
3/14/13 at 9:23pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by denning View Post

Phillips Tuxedo ($1987): http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6875&ProdCatId=1035&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=0
Phineas Cole Shawl Collar ($1987): http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=7037&ProdCatId=1079&MainCatId=19&HEADERMENUID=3&SUBPRODCATID=0
Phineas Cole Double Breasted Shawl Collar ($1487): http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6281&ProdCatId=1079&MainCatId=19&HEADERMENUID=3&SUBPRODCATID=0

Again all black though, so definitely MTM I guess.
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post #7 of 21
3/14/13 at 9:28pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

1. There's nothing wrong with midnight blue, but make sure it is truly midnight blue. Dark navy does not cut it.

2. I prefer shawl because it's the one main garment where one can wear a shawl lapel, but peak is slightly more formal. Both are perfectly fine in a black tie setting.

3. One button if single breasted. That's really the only choice. DB can be great, but you have to be sure about it before you do it. You don't want to not be excited to wear your one tuxedo if you do not like how DB, even when MTM, looks on you.

4. I would definitely go MTM in this price range. I'd think the amount of padding in the shoulder is something you could get changed in the MTM process. Do not get something advertised as "dark blue" as it will look off if it is not midnight blue. When do you need the tuxedo by? Have you considered options such as Chan?

Good luck.

Good points, I will stick with true mid night blue then. What do you think about ventless vs. dual vent. I don't think RLBL MTM has less padding option either, though I will check. As to DB, yea, not sure about that for Tuxedo, at least not from Ralph Lauren (Purple Label does have something I would like, but outside my price range, RLBL's DB is nice for suit, but don't think I will turn that for Tuxedo)
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post #8 of 21
3/14/13 at 9:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Good points, I will stick with true mid night blue then. What do you think about ventless vs. dual vent. I don't think RLBL MTM has less padding option either, though I will check. As to DB, yea, not sure about that for Tuxedo, at least not from Ralph Lauren (Purple Label does have something I would like, but outside my price range, RLBL's DB is nice for suit, but don't think I will turn that for Tuxedo)

Ventless is technically more correct from a traditional / rules perspective and I personally prefer it as it looks slightly more slimming on me. Many well dressed men, though if I had to guess I'd say a minority, wear double vents and prefer the functional benefits they offer. If you're in a well fitting tuxedo, tie your bow tie, have nice shoes and a well fitting shirt with decent cufflinks / studs, you're way ahead of everyone else regardless of your choice for vents.

There are definitely restrictions that come with MTM vs. bespoke and RL may not be able to do a version with less padding (my MTM garments contain as little padding as I ask for and cost me less than RLBL MTM), but it never hurts to ask if they can do it, especially if you otherwise like the tuxedo. If not and if the padding's a dealbreaker, move on.
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post #9 of 21
3/14/13 at 11:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Good points, I will stick with true mid night blue then. What do you think about ventless vs. dual vent. I don't think RLBL MTM has less padding option either, though I will check. As to DB, yea, not sure about that for Tuxedo, at least not from Ralph Lauren (Purple Label does have something I would like, but outside my price range, RLBL's DB is nice for suit, but don't think I will turn that for Tuxedo)

Whether you have no vents or double vents doesn't make that much difference in a SB DJ. No vents is more correct so I would lean that way on a SB.

If you have a DB DJ it's a different story. When you sit down -- and often when you stand up -- your SB jacket is not buttoned so no vents is fine. But a DB jacket is always buttoned, even when you are sitting. This is way more comfortable and looks better when you have double vents. In extreme cases, a DB jacket with no vents can rise up off your back a little when you sit down and make you look like a slightly nervous turtle. In any case, it's much more comfortable to sit in a DB jacket when you have double vents.
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post #10 of 21
3/15/13 at 11:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

1. Color: Mid night blue, or just really really dark navy in general, I don't want black, don't ask me why.

No need to ask, it's obvious. Several years of subliminal messaging vis-à-vis James Bond in blue dinner jackets has convinced you subconsciously it's what you want. That's why companies pay all that money for product placement.
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post #11 of 21
3/15/13 at 11:04am
If you've got thousands of dollars of disposable cash, then good on you. But I just don't see the need to drop a few grand on a tux. They can be had so much more affordably.
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post #12 of 21
3/15/13 at 12:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post

No need to ask, it's obvious. Several years of subliminal messaging vis-à-vis James Bond in blue dinner jackets has convinced you subconsciously it's what you want. That's why companies pay all that money for product placement.

Agreed. Black is just fine, but we shouldn't ask the poster why he can only do midnight blue.
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post #13 of 21
3/15/13 at 9:26pm
Thread Starter 
Checked Paul Stuart, to make their tux into midnight blue will cost you another 700~800 (they do have one tuxedo jacket in midnight blue from last season, but no pants), so I would count that out for now.

Went to BB as well, it's sub 2K for Milano or Fitz, though they need to check if the satin lapel can also be done in midnight blue.

Saks and Fifth can actually have PRL made in Bradford cut, but again they need to find fabric for midnight blue, it will be probably about 2K ish

Bergdorf Goodman actually have RLBL's tux in midnight blue, and definitely a lot cheaper than what RL is charging for MTM

I have no idea what's the James Bond reference regarding to midnight blue tux...
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post #14 of 21
3/15/13 at 9:30pm
Thread Starter 
well, looking back I wish I had bought the Bradford cut tux in midnight blue 3 years ago, it was like 600ish on the final discount... paying 2K is definitely not the smartest idea, but I suppose people tend to indulge if it's their wedding...
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post #15 of 21
3/16/13 at 1:31am
Go bespoke?
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