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Getting Proper fit with no billowing

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 

Im having a extremely difficult time finding good fitting dress shirts. My problem is im short, and musclar with a small waist.

 

I tried to get a shirt tailored, but the lady charged $46 and I am still not happy with the fit(maybe I didn't communicate everything? English is her second language)

 

 

The type of fit I am desiring, is slim throughout the mid section, and no billowing. Every dress shirt I buy fits like a tent, and smaller neck sizes suffocate me.

 

 

 

My Stats:

 

5'7"

15.5" Neck Measursment

30" Waist

 

Pictures of Altered Shirt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My questions are:

  • What do I need to tell the tailor in the future, to eliminate billowing?
  • Is it caused by excess fabric on the sides, or in the back, or the shirt length
  • Typically, where should a dress shirt length stop at if it is going to be tucked in?
  • What would you recomend I tell a tailor to ensure a good fit(in the future)?

 

 

 

Edited: But overall, the main problem is excess fabric in the back. My waist is very slim, so whent he back of the shirt billows, it looks very sloopy


Edited by sjames11 - 3/14/13 at 1:59pm
post #2 of 13

I'm not sure what you mean by "billowing." If you're talking about the excess fabric that comes out of the waistband, then it looks like some of those pictures have "billowing." I hate that. To reduce it, you have to not only slim down the shirt's waist but also it's hips. That extra material comes from the wider hip area sliding out from your waistband.

 

If you're having an off-the-rack shirt adjusted, just make sure that you communicate where to adjust and how much to adjust while you're being pinned. IMO, made-to-measure is the way to go for slim shirts. I'm tall, and athletic/muscular. It's tough to find shirts that fit the way that I like. With mtm, I get practically no "billowing" at all and very little excess throughout the body...slimmer than any of the pictures that you posted. It looks really clean and accentuates the "V" shape.

post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by "billowing." If you're talking about the excess fabric that comes out of the waistband, then it looks like some of those pictures have "billowing." I hate that. To reduce it, you have to not only slim down the shirt's waist but also it's hips. That extra material comes from the wider hip area sliding out from your waistband.

 

If you're having an off-the-rack shirt adjusted, just make sure that you communicate where to adjust and how much to adjust while you're being pinned. IMO, made-to-measure is the way to go for slim shirts. I'm tall, and athletic/muscular. It's tough to find shirts that fit the way that I like. With mtm, I get practically no "billowing" at all and very little excess throughout the body...slimmer than any of the pictures that you posted. It looks really clean and accentuates the "V" shape.

 

Yea, that is what I meant by billowing.

 

Thanks. I think that would be the best option at this point. Have you ever tried moderntailor?

post #4 of 13
$46 is ridiculous, shop around for a better deal. I pay 1/3 that. Tuck in the shirt, then take a pic. To me, it looks like it's pretty fitted and if you taper the shirt any more you won't be able to move around in it. The arms look good, you have to be able to bend your arms, and if you slim the sleeves down any more, you risk ripping the elbow. Lastly, you have to understand that in many of the promotional shots companies will pin the back of the shirts to make them look super fitted. This looks awesome during the shoot but it isn't very everyday friendly in real life.
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IrateCustomer View Post

$46 is ridiculous, shop around for a better deal. I pay 1/3 that. Tuck in the shirt, then take a pic. To me, it looks like it's pretty fitted and if you taper the shirt any more you won't be able to move around in it. The arms look good, you have to be able to bend your arms, and if you slim the sleeves down any more, you risk ripping the elbow. Lastly, you have to understand that in many of the promotional shots companies will pin the back of the shirts to make them look super fitted. This looks awesome during the shoot but it isn't very everyday friendly in real life.

Yes...It is.. 

 

I cant get really good pcitures by myself.

 

The problem is, the lower portion of the back of the shirt hangs when tucked in.Everywhere else fits good.

post #6 of 13
Use the timer on your phone and prop it up against a cup of water and you're all set for better pics. If the shirt is too billowy below the waste, take it back and have her slim it again...at no charge of course.
post #7 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by "billowing." If you're talking about the excess fabric that comes out of the waistband, then it looks like some of those pictures have "billowing." I hate that. To reduce it, you have to not only slim down the shirt's waist but also it's hips. That extra material comes from the wider hip area sliding out from your waistband.

If you're having an off-the-rack shirt adjusted, just make sure that you communicate where to adjust and how much to adjust while you're being pinned. IMO, made-to-measure is the way to go for slim shirts. I'm tall, and athletic/muscular. It's tough to find shirts that fit the way that I like. With mtm, I get practically no "billowing" at all and very little excess throughout the body...slimmer than any of the pictures that you posted. It looks really clean and accentuates the "V" shape.

And you feel no tightness when sitting down?
post #8 of 13

If the billowing is in the lower back area, darts can help. Some people may not like them, but they are great for localizing the adjustment in size.

post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by IrateCustomer View Post

$46 is ridiculous, shop around for a better deal. I pay 1/3 that. Tuck in the shirt, then take a pic. To me, it looks like it's pretty fitted and if you taper the shirt any more you won't be able to move around in it. The arms look good, you have to be able to bend your arms, and if you slim the sleeves down any more, you risk ripping the elbow. Lastly, you have to understand that in many of the promotional shots companies will pin the back of the shirts to make them look super fitted. This looks awesome during the shoot but it isn't very everyday friendly in real life.

I guess it depends on your body shape and how you like your clothes to fit. A lot of my shirts are even more fitted in the stomach area than the shirts in OP's pictures are. They look great, and it feels like I'm wearing nothing at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post


And you feel no tightness when sitting down?

Not at all. I wore one tonight. My stomach's pretty tight. If you have a different body shape and don't like really slim shirts, it may not fit as comfortably.

post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjames11 View Post

 

Yea, that is what I meant by billowing.

 

Thanks. I think that would be the best option at this point. Have you ever tried moderntailor?

I haven't bought a shirt from ModernTailor, but I've bought a few suits from them, and they were great, so their shirts are probably pretty good too. It all comes down to taking good measurements and communicating.

post #11 of 13

I don't know who is taller and/or more muscular,Vincenzo, but I like a slim and flattering dress shirt(before it was the thing) but I think having it tighter than the 3 model pic in the OP would be skin tight

and not good. And again, I am all for close fitting. Speaking about proper dress shirts for suits and such only. Other uses, more leeway.

But I don't need meters of fabric to hide belly, back fat, etc. as apparently is the mandate. And I don't skydive so a parachute is not useful either.

 

If you have a pic posted on SF of your shirt, I am curious. Actually, I just don't believe they are even more fitted than the model pics. 

 

As for the OP, pin or clip your shirt's excess to the fit you want, then measure and use some common sense if you are using somewhere that requires your own specs.

post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 

I have been doing some research...

 

According to a few sites, a  large drop(mine is 7"), could cause billowing, and taking in the side more wouldnt resolve the problem, but darts would... Would that be a vaible solution?

post #13 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

I guess it depends on your body shape and how you like your clothes to fit. A lot of my shirts are even more fitted in the stomach area than the shirts in OP's pictures are. They look great, and it feels like I'm wearing nothing at all.
Not at all. I wore one tonight. My stomach's pretty tight. If you have a different body shape and don't like really slim shirts, it may not fit as comfortably.

if they are tighter around the stomach, it is extremely likely that the placket will gap open, which looks far worse than a bit of extra fabric
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