Originally Posted by mack11211
Can someone explain to me this bit from Duffy:
What/where is the crook in his cut?
The distinction between a "crooked" vs a "straight" coat seems a bit ambiguously defined, and I've read differing descriptions from folks who all know how to cut a fine coat. I understand it as Rory has explained it to me with the rule of thumb he learned:
"Crooken on, straighten off."
This refers to how the foreparts hang. To "crooken" a forepart is to slightly swing it from the neckpoint inward toward the centerline such that it will remain more closed (or "on") even when unbuttoned. A "straightened" forepart will be be swung slightly outward from the centerline such that it will hang open (or "off") when unbuttoned.
As I understand it, Anderson & Sheppard (and those who trained there like Tom Mahon) tend to cut a straight coat, with much of their famous chest drape being pulled into being by the button fastening itself. I asked Mahon about this several years ago during a demonstration he was giving in NYC
and he confirmed that he believed the button "should be doing something" by pulling the coat into shape, and that he didn't mind the bit of visible "pull" on the center button this entails. (For the record, nor do I, and nor do many iconic dressers in the pantheon.)
Proponents of crooked coats like Rory prefer to build their shape and drape into the coat without relying on the button fastening to do anything.
Neither technique is superior, per se
--it comes down to a matter of personal preference and style. A coat for a SB 3 pc suit might well be cut straight to be worn unbuttoned and feature the waistcoat more. My own impression is that a crooked coat is more traditional, and more elegant when buttoned, but somewhat fusty-looking when worn unbuttoned (i.e. non-traditionally).
Anyway, I apologize in advance if I've made a hash of this explanation and encourage anyone to correct me where I may be mistaken.
For a more detailed (and highly confusing) technical examination of subject, check out this thread on the Cutter & Tailor forum
.Edited by Montauk - 4/23/13 at 4:23pm