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Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC - Page 14

post #196 of 216
I guess i-gents like to eat their young. Thread is sad, thank you for the videos.
post #197 of 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post

But he can make a different double breasted or is his only DB house style?

I'm sure he can make anything.
post #198 of 216

I do cut and make most structured garments for men and women. Coats, Trousers, Waistcoats, Overcoats, Skirts, even tailcoats (Kilt optional).

Currently I am making an Evening tailcoat, with a white marcella waistcoat and pleated high waisted trouser, and a 3 piece Morning suit with a DB waistcoat.

 

The clients plan to wear them at their respective weddings in August. Will post some pics on my blog as these suits progress.

 

Both will be cut and made in the traditional method just like when they where popularly worn at the turn of the last century. While apprenticing at Henry Poole, Keith Levitt, Pooles livery tailor taught me all I know about tailcoats, he makes the Court Dress uniforms for the High Sheriffs. Keith inspired me when making the Golden shear pic, a DB Morning suit in a window pane check, SB waistcoat and highland Kilt. 

Keith's work is beautiful, Blue/Black silk velvet Court coats, trimmed with real silk lining special loomed, finished with cut steel buttons, Breeches, ceremonial sword and Cocked hat. Standardized by Henry in 1839, they are made the same way today as they where then, cut in the 1870's style I believe, considered the modern look.  

post #199 of 216
I hope they don't plan to wear them in august in New York. They will be sweltering!
post #200 of 216

A small price to pay when dressing with style.

Probably best to stay indoors and crank up the AC.

Luckily the cloths we use this days are lighter than in my Grandfathers time. 10oz barathea and ermazine lining isn't quite as hot as the traditional 17oz lined in silk.

Evening tailcoats are open at the front and the waistcoat is backless so this does help. 

If its comfort you are after wear a safari suit or tee shirt and shorts, not the best look at a wedding.

post #201 of 216
The video series will put Rory on the map for sure.
post #202 of 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory Duffy View Post
 

This suit is not part of my Handcrafted suit line, as i made it as a personal garment while working on the row. Not a silhouette shot, rather to show the pocket details as an option as well as the smoked pearl buttons. As for the shape, the difference between my SB and DB is 3" on the front edge, so the nipped waist you see on my avatar is the same in this coat visible from a straight on shot ,which this clearly isn't.

Dopey got it, saw this detail in Sedwells window and used it. Don't think Andrew Ramproo designed it, Savile row have been making "Delta" pockets since the '60's, according to the presser at Pooles.

The pocket are slanted and the pocket edge is straight to follow the hem line, the Ticket pocket above the right cross pocket is straight with a slanted flap to complete the look.

 

Its not a house style just another one of the endless options available to my clients 

Ah!! This explains everything!

Is possible see your typical double breasted style?

Is similiar to Henry Poole's DB?

 

 

post #203 of 216
Yes, I am a bit surprised at the dislike of the "hard shoulder" on this forum.
Structured shoulder is the quintessential British style and looks great if done well, does not mean you look like the stereotypical 80s car salemsman with over extended shoulders, just cos your jacket is structured.

Most guys dont have great shoulders anyway, so adding a bit of structure makes most guys look a bit sharper and walk taller.

Way too much groupthink on this forum.

Natural shoulder looks great if you have 'good' shoulders, but if your physique is not that great, then... the floaty, floaty Italian look is not that great (on you).
post #204 of 216
Can you explain "good" shoulders? Would sloping shoulders not qualify?
post #205 of 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post

Can you explain "good" shoulders? Would sloping shoulders not qualify?

Well certainly any shoulder that does what nature intended it to do is a good shoulder! smile.gif

But to answer your point properly, I suppose I am just going off the classical idea that 'best' frame of a man is one which is the classical V shape, broad straight shoulders, slim waist.
If someone has sloping shoulders, it is harder to look like this classical 'V' shape.

My experience of traditional British tailors is that they will do all within their power to give you a V shape, which in my opinion, is helped by giving a harder shoulder line (military style) or structured as the technical term is.
post #206 of 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards View Post

Yes, I am a bit surprised at the dislike of the "hard shoulder" on this forum.
Structured shoulder is the quintessential British style and looks great if done well, does not mean you look like the stereotypical 80s car salemsman with over extended shoulders, just cos your jacket is structured.

Most guys dont have great shoulders anyway, so adding a bit of structure makes most guys look a bit sharper and walk taller.

Way too much groupthink on this forum.

Natural shoulder looks great if you have 'good' shoulders, but if your physique is not that great, then... the floaty, floaty Italian look is not that great (on you).


I like very much a structurate shoulder not more large than the natural shoulder.

The term natural shoulder not means a sloping shoulder or a "spalla camicia" without any padding,but means that the the shoulder of the coat is not more artificially extended that the shoulder of the customer.

So you can have a structurate shoulder (or also a "pagoda shoulder) that is "natural".

post #207 of 216
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

It looks like a well fitting jacket, and I'm sure if it was a bespoke tradgedy he wouldn't be socializing with it on while being photographed. It's also nice to see a structured garment on the Styleforum the jacket doesn't make him look like a linebacker. I think there is too much group think for soft shoulders/tailoring. Each one has its place.

In the photo posted above and referenced here, I am wearing a vintage flannel suit, not the coat featured in the videos. That garment is still under construction, so I suppose tragedy is still possible.

AY
post #208 of 216
No finished jacket?
post #209 of 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

No finished jacket?
I also liked following the videos, and Rory has posted a couple more on his Vimeo. It has been a while since either of them posted additional videos though...
post #210 of 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

No finished jacket?

+1
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