or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC - Page 13

post #181 of 212
It doesn't matter if you like it. It only matters if the client likes it.
post #182 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post


This is a Rory Duffy double breasted.
Well i not doubt his manual skill...but the silhouette of this DB is ugly,
5000$ for this?
The client could be 6 foot 5 with a gut for all you know, throwing the silhouette off when it's on a mannequin that fits a 40r. This is not a rtw garment.... The pockets aren't to mine, and probably a lot of peoples tastes but that has little relevance on a bespoke garment, with details chosen presumably by the client.
post #183 of 212
You can't tell much of a garment on a mannequin...
post #184 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post

It doesn't matter if you like it. It only matters if the client likes it.


Absolutly!

But he can make a different double breasted or is his only DB house style?

post #185 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

You can't tell much of a garment on a mannequin...

so why do they even bother posting it?confused.gif
post #186 of 212
I suspect most tailors don't know how to showcase their work in pics, especially not to the standards of the iGentry.

That, and when discussing a silhouette, it should be noted that it refers to the specific outline of a design only. Not the actually details or techniques.

A straight on shot would work best in dissecting a suit's silhouette...
post #187 of 212
Correct above re silhouette.

@taxgenius I'd strongly suspect that a small bespoke operation wouldn't have the kind of money and definitely not the kind of time to make sample garments purely to put on a mannequin for show, so they show off whatever they can.

@carpu65 I don't think anyone has those kind of pockets as a house style (well I hope not).
post #188 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

...
@carpu65 I don't think anyone has those kind of pockets as a house style (well I hope not).
Maurice Sedwell does (meaning hacking pockets with flaps cut to be level to the floor). Or, more to the point, Andrew Ramroop developed them and thinks they are quite cool. He may have, in fact, been the first as I haven't seem them anywhere earlier. In any event, it is likely that is where Duffy got the idea, directly or indirectly.
post #189 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Correct above re silhouette.

@taxgenius I'd strongly suspect that a small bespoke operation wouldn't have the kind of money and definitely not the kind of time to make sample garments purely to put on a mannequin for show, so they show off whatever they can.

Absolutely, You show off what you can or what you have.
post #190 of 212
post #191 of 212

Is a nice jacket (and i like a style more built)... Pity only for the low gorge.

 

PS.

The collar on back,sever only because the guy with the glass hava a hand on the shoulder of Mr Yamato?

post #192 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post

Is a nice jacket (and i like a style more built)... Pity only for the low gorge.

PS.
The collar on back,sever only because the guy with the glass hava a hand on the shoulder of Mr Yamato?

His head is leaning forward a bit.
post #193 of 212
It looks like a well fitting jacket, and I'm sure if it was a bespoke tradgedy he wouldn't be socializing with it on while being photographed. It's also nice to see a structured garment on the Styleforum the jacket doesn't make him look like a linebacker. I think there is too much group think for soft shoulders/tailoring. Each one has its place.
post #194 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

It looks like a well fitting jacket, and I'm sure if it was a bespoke tradgedy he wouldn't be socializing with it on while being photographed. It's also nice to see a structured garment on the Styleforum the jacket doesn't make him look like a linebacker. I think there is too much group think for soft shoulders/tailoring. Each one has its place.

I am thinking about setting up a thread for pictures of structured English tailoring. Was thinking of calling it "The Empire Strikes Back".
post #195 of 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post
 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

This is a Rory Duffy double breasted.

Well i not doubt his manual skill...but the silhouette of this DB is ugly,

5000$ for this?

This suit is not part of my Handcrafted suit line, as i made it as a personal garment while working on the row. Not a silhouette shot, rather to show the pocket details as an option as well as the smoked pearl buttons. As for the shape, the difference between my SB and DB is 3" on the front edge, so the nipped waist you see on my avatar is the same in this coat visible from a straight on shot ,which this clearly isn't.

Dopey got it, saw this detail in Sedwells window and used it. Don't think Andrew Ramproo designed it, Savile row have been making "Delta" pockets since the '60's, according to the presser at Pooles.

The pocket are slanted and the pocket edge is straight to follow the hem line, the Ticket pocket above the right cross pocket is straight with a slanted flap to complete the look.

 

Its not a house style just another one of the endless options available to my clients 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC