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Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC - Page 12

post #166 of 207
This guy also had a mass of tissue on his back neck right side, when I pointed it out to him he was unaware of its existence. Put some extra fullness in the back blade area and released the neck an 1/8" on that side, to allow for it. Not sure if the coat is sitting off on that side or whether his head is turned slightly.

Compared to what I have seen on this site, on the row and else where, it is a very clean coat.
Am always striving for perfection and appreciate your option and thank you for taking the time to comment.
post #167 of 207
One of the reasons I almost never comment in the fit thread is that cameras can cause such massive distortion from one side to the other as to make the fit unreadable- the asymmetry that we see is clearly one of these instances. While no garment is perfect and we could find nits to pick on every single garment ever created, this garment is better than some of the things that we have seen from much more illustrious houses. Keep posting, Rory.
post #168 of 207
Unrelated, but I recently saw this nice clip on Rory in a segment The Luxury Channel did on Henry Poole. I hope Rory doesn't mind me posting it here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5As-e8WcM_U#t=19m45s
post #169 of 207
nice to see a real life customer wearing a tie tied with as big a knot as seen in the windows of shops on the Row!
post #170 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory Duffy View Post

IMG_1601.JPG 1792k .JPG file IMG_1598.JPG 1659k .JPG file  

AppleMark


AppleMark


Final read through all your posts and thought it best to upload some pics.
These are of a client who purchased my Handcrafted suits, made solely by me in house. 
I did everything from cutting the pattern and sewing in every stitch including the buttonholes.
Sadly the finisher I trained move to Holland to live with her boyfriend so its just me now.
In the past few weeks two new apprentices have joined the ranks to train in Coat making and Trouser making respectfully.
They are not as of yet ready to work on clients garments, still at the sample stage.

Would like to decide this pics to Taxgenuis and Archetypal_yuppie with the greatest respect, this is your backyard and I have yet 
to prove my worth and be worthy of your respect. I condone all your calls for a picture on a clients back, I hope you will be kind in your 
judgement as suits are made from cloth not cut from stone. 

This a relatively light to medium weight cloth at 10oz spun from luxury fine wool and cashmere from Harrisons of Edinburgh, the price was 5k including taxes and cloth.
Made as seen in the videos, please note I also hand sewed the shoulder seam and sleeve seam as well as the lining, the collar and lapels.
All that one would expect on Savile row.

This was the final fit, the client was due back after six weeks for final inspection. He has since started running everyday and would like to wait 
until he has dispelled all excess body weight before have the garment taken in at no extra cost.

Thank you for taking the time to view my work and videos and look forward to contributing to this forum.

Best wishes,
Rory Duffy

Just now seeing this for the first time, thanks for posting. Very nice, and look forward to seeing more examples.
post #171 of 207
Is a roped shoulder a must for you?
post #172 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

One of the reasons I almost never comment in the fit thread is that cameras can cause such massive distortion from one side to the other as to make the fit unreadable- the asymmetry that we see is clearly one of these instances. While no garment is perfect and we could find nits to pick on every single garment ever created, this garment is better than some of the things that we have seen from much more illustrious houses. Keep posting, Rory.

Wouldn't you agree that the collar looks loose on the right side? I don't think the camera is playing tricks in that respect.

While I agree that photos can throw things askew, there are still certain things you can tell by looking at them. Also, in this case, it was the tailor that chose the photos to post. It is not unfair to assume he is showing his work in a light that he feels is reasonably accurate. If he didn't want anyone to nitpick collar fit, he could have picked a photo where it doesn't look like there is a problem with it.
post #173 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Wouldn't you agree that the collar looks loose on the right side? I don't think the camera is playing tricks in that respect.

While I agree that photos can throw things askew, there are still certain things you can tell by looking at them. Also, in this case, it was the tailor that chose the photos to post. It is not unfair to assume he is showing his work in a light that he feels is reasonably accurate. If he didn't want anyone to nitpick collar fit, he could have picked a photo where it doesn't look like there is a problem with it.

Then what's his excuse?

post #174 of 207
He has a loose collar, too. No excuse, other than that he says he likes his collars loose. I would never tell anybody that it is correct.
post #175 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
 
Also, in this case, it was the tailor that chose the photos to post. It is not unfair to assume he is showing his work in a light that he feels is reasonably accurate.

 

Nothing about the photos convey the sense that it was a photo shoot intended to show a perfectly finished garment.

post #176 of 207
There is a similarity in both Mariano and Rory's client. Mariano is supporting himself, lifting up on his left arm and when you lift the shoulder the collar will pull away.

The client in question here looks like he is about to move his right arm outward, that would have the same effect and lift the collar away. If the collar stands up on it's own when the client is relaxed then the shoulder may be sloped too much. They are scheduled to make adjustments after the suit has been worn.

From one static photo it is hard to discern what is permanent or a reflection of some movement when the photo was taken.

The sleeves look fine. Maybe a little dry in back but nothing that needs correcting.

There is no way the front is longer on one side. The left front is torquing from stress and lifting away from the body. The camera angle distorts this to look longer. You can see how the front is warped and concave instead of convex. Client doesn't look like he is very relaxed and may be standing a bit stiff.
post #177 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick R View Post

Nothing about the photos convey the sense that it was a photo shoot intended to show a perfectly finished garment.

+1. Lighten up people. He's not making scuba suits.
post #178 of 207

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

This is a Rory Duffy double breasted.

Well i not doubt his manual skill...but the silhouette of this DB is ugly,

5000$ for this?

post #179 of 207
How can you tell a silhouette from that 3/4th angle shot? confused.gif

Do you at least have a straight on shot for consideration?
post #180 of 207

Because i'm not blind.

The lapels are too much narrow,the button stance is too much close; even inconsistent !

The flap pockets are weird.

Yes,of course,is matter of taste, and if one want wear like Lord Brett Sinclair in 1970,is fine for me.

(i now,i now,the peacock style suits of Moore were from Cyril Castle).

 

I have see nice single breasted suits of Duffy,but his double breasted is terrible!

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