Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC - Page 11
You are mistaken Sir.
Its not a straight on shot, as the suggestion usually state, apologies for this.
Also there is very little chance a 3" difference in length is something that either myself or my client would miss or would ever happen with my work. As the fore parts are shaped pinned to together, mark stitches matched and cut one off the other I can't see how such an error could ever occur.
The coat is also buttoned if there was a difference in length it would appear above the button position.
Have another look if you please.
On a plane to London will check in later, have a nice Saturday Agjiffy.
Thank you for your patiences, have arrived safe in London.
Took another look at your comments and the pics I provided and now understand what you mean. This client has a 7/8" right low shoulder. As I said in my last post the collar is shorter on the right side as it is closer to the shoulder seam. Since the left shoulder is higher, the collar is longer on that. It is purposeful and for asymmetry as you suggest.
We usually refer to the gorge or notch or lapel, not facing. The facing does make up the lapel but once the coat is made up the facing is refer to as the cloth on the inside of the garment and not visible in these images.
Apologies for my confusion, we us different terms.
Hope this answers your question.
That was me alright. I pick up that greatcoat at Beacon's closet as a reference piece and really liked the fit. Wore my bespoke overcoat on a rainy day in Manhattan, it got soaked through, decided to give it a rest for awhile.
Use to make those Greatcoats at Joseph Martins in Ireland during my first apprenticeship and I always wanted one! He still produces clothing for the Irish army.
Plan to put together a cashmere one for next year, or perhaps a British warm. Haven't decide yet.
Ideal for the weather we've been having, the boots too. You should have said "hello".
Do you live in Williamsburg as well?
Check out my vimeo and/or my YouTube channel, Macie & Kev my too apprentices are working on some more vids for all to see.
Sadly Montauk is too busy with other projects too edit "The Making of a Coat", but promises he'll get back to it soon.
In the meantime Kev has almost finished "How to Draft Brace-top trousers", and Macie has uploaded "How to tie a Knot in Thread" and "How to use a Needle & Thimble".
Hope there will be a new video on there every other week at least.
Gentlemen - please! Enough!
No more snide insinuation, no more conjecture, no more marketing. Let the vids speak for themselves to the the extent that they can - i.e. they are in no way a fair representation of a finished product fit to a person but an interesting and rare insight into an intricate process of how such products are made from scratch.
I'll be at the after party, it'll be one of my suits that Rory will be doing the finishing fit for. You can all see it for yourselves and make your own conclusions based on that. Let's leave this thread be until pictures from the suit being worn are ready.
And to allay fears of my mental incapacity to operate cameras someone else will take all the pictures...
C'mon guys, it's clothes...
So....what ever happened to your three-suit commission? Are any of the pictures you mentioned forthcoming? Interested to see the outcome, hope it turned out well for you.
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Final read through all your posts and thought it best to upload some pics.
These are of a client who purchased my Handcrafted suits, made solely by me in house.
I did everything from cutting the pattern and sewing in every stitch including the buttonholes.
Sadly the finisher I trained move to Holland to live with her boyfriend so its just me now.
In the past few weeks two new apprentices have joined the ranks to train in Coat making and Trouser making respectfully.
They are not as of yet ready to work on clients garments, still at the sample stage.
Would like to decide this pics to Taxgenuis and Archetypal_yuppie with the greatest respect, this is your backyard and I have yet
to prove my worth and be worthy of your respect. I condone all your calls for a picture on a clients back, I hope you will be kind in your
judgement as suits are made from cloth not cut from stone.
This a relatively light to medium weight cloth at 10oz spun from luxury fine wool and cashmere from Harrisons of Edinburgh, the price was 5k including taxes and cloth.
Made as seen in the videos, please note I also hand sewed the shoulder seam and sleeve seam as well as the lining, the collar and lapels.
All that one would expect on Savile row.
This was the final fit, the client was due back after six weeks for final inspection. He has since started running everyday and would like to wait
until he has dispelled all excess body weight before have the garment taken in at no extra cost.
Thank you for taking the time to view my work and videos and look forward to contributing to this forum.
Collar looks loose on right side.
Sleeve pitch is off or back sleeve balance is too long.
Some waviness in upper sleeve area when looking head on.
Thanks for your feedback, will take a look at that when the client returns for his final check fit. Would agree that the neck may need to be crookend, as for the others not sure I agree. This is usually four to six weeks after final delivery, to allow the suit to settle. I believe RA also offers this service.
In this case the client has informed me he has lost so much weight the suit needs to be reduced. So I need to take the sleeves off, collar off, remove the back to reduce the forepart sides and back sides.
Perfection takes it's time.