or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC - Page 11

post #151 of 211
I'm not going to nitpick (although I will say that in that price range I think the little details are crucial) but it is difficult to look at the front facing picture and not notice that the left side of the suit hangs about 3 inches lower than the right, even though the wearer's left shoulder appears much higher than the right. The symmetry between left and right looks very off. I could leaving the shoulders natural (although I don't really like the look) but the length on each side should certainly be the same.
post #152 of 211

You are mistaken Sir.

Its not a straight on shot, as the suggestion usually state, apologies for this.

Also there is very little chance a 3" difference in length is something that either myself or my client would miss or would ever happen with my work. As the fore parts are shaped pinned to together, mark stitches matched and cut one off the other I can't see how such an error could ever occur.

The coat is also buttoned if there was a difference in length it would appear above the button position.

Have another look if you please.

post #153 of 211
I haven't suggested it is straight on. I specifically said front facing. And I dont think it is the camera angle. The shoulder is significantly higher on the same side as the lower length. In any event, one can only comment on the pictures you post. I note the same assymetry in both pictures with respect to the shoulders. Is that intentional? Are you saying it is just an effect of the photo?
post #154 of 211
Nice looking suit. I agree with Rory- the perceived asymmetry looks like it is due to camera angle in both photos.
post #155 of 211
Sorry not sure what you mean. When a client has a low shoulder I cut it low rather than pad it up. As a result the notch of the lapel are at different heights but the lapel and facings are the same length. This gentleman did have a considerable drop and a sloped shoulder, the pads are one ply or 1/4" thick.

On a plane to London will check in later, have a nice Saturday Agjiffy.
post #156 of 211
Hey Agjiffy,
Thank you for your patiences, have arrived safe in London.

Took another look at your comments and the pics I provided and now understand what you mean. This client has a 7/8" right low shoulder. As I said in my last post the collar is shorter on the right side as it is closer to the shoulder seam. Since the left shoulder is higher, the collar is longer on that. It is purposeful and for asymmetry as you suggest.

We usually refer to the gorge or notch or lapel, not facing. The facing does make up the lapel but once the coat is made up the facing is refer to as the cloth on the inside of the garment and not visible in these images.

Apologies for my confusion, we us different terms.

Hope this answers your question.
post #157 of 211
FWIW, I believe I saw you [Rory] here in South Williamsburg walking north from Broadway some snowy days ago. You were wearing a military style greatcoat with a belted back, and knee high leather boots. It was a very good look. Was the coat your own make?
post #158 of 211
Rory,

I have enjoyed your videos, hopefully more will follow some day. It is good to see another tailor on this forum. Your knowledge will be a great resource...
post #159 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by mack11211 View Post

FWIW, I believe I saw you [Rory] here in South Williamsburg walking north from Broadway some snowy days ago. You were wearing a military style greatcoat with a belted back, and knee high leather boots. It was a very good look. Was the coat your own make?

That was me alright. I pick up that greatcoat at Beacon's closet as a reference piece and really liked the fit. Wore my bespoke overcoat on a rainy day in Manhattan, it got soaked through, decided to give it a rest for awhile.

Use to make those Greatcoats at Joseph Martins in Ireland during my first apprenticeship and I always wanted one! He still produces clothing for the Irish army.
Plan to put together a cashmere one for next year, or perhaps a British warm. Haven't decide yet.

Ideal for the weather we've been having, the boots too. You should have said "hello".
Do you live in Williamsburg as well?
post #160 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

Rory,

I have enjoyed your videos, hopefully more will follow some day. It is good to see another tailor on this forum. Your knowledge will be a great resource...

Check out my vimeo and/or my YouTube channel, Macie & Kev my too apprentices are working on some more vids for all to see.
Sadly Montauk is too busy with other projects too edit "The Making of a Coat", but promises he'll get back to it soon.

In the meantime Kev has almost finished "How to Draft Brace-top trousers", and Macie has uploaded "How to tie a Knot in Thread" and "How to use a Needle & Thimble".

Hope there will be a new video on there every other week at least.
post #161 of 211
^
Fantastic, thank you...
post #162 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by BAO1 View Post
 

Gentlemen - please! Enough!

 

No more snide insinuation, no more conjecture, no more marketing.  Let the vids speak for themselves to the the extent that they can - i.e. they are in no way a fair representation of a finished product fit to a person but an interesting and rare insight into an intricate process of how such products are made from scratch.

 

I'll be at the after party, it'll be one of my suits that Rory will be doing the finishing fit for. You can all see it for yourselves and make your own conclusions based on that.  Let's leave this thread be until pictures from the suit being worn are ready.

 

And to allay fears of my mental incapacity to operate cameras someone else will take all the pictures...

 

C'mon guys, it's clothes... 


So....what ever happened to your three-suit commission? Are any of the pictures you mentioned forthcoming? Interested to see the outcome, hope it turned out well for you.

post #163 of 211
We have been meaning to do a shoot on those. Both of us have been very busy, especially since BAO1 started his new job.
Not exactly top priority! Maybe when I get back from London and himself from Europe.
post #164 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory Duffy View Post

IMG_1601.JPG 1792k .JPG file IMG_1598.JPG 1659k .JPG file Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Final read through all your posts and thought it best to upload some pics.
These are of a client who purchased my Handcrafted suits, made solely by me in house. 
I did everything from cutting the pattern and sewing in every stitch including the buttonholes.
Sadly the finisher I trained move to Holland to live with her boyfriend so its just me now.
In the past few weeks two new apprentices have joined the ranks to train in Coat making and Trouser making respectfully.
They are not as of yet ready to work on clients garments, still at the sample stage.

Would like to decide this pics to Taxgenuis and Archetypal_yuppie with the greatest respect, this is your backyard and I have yet 
to prove my worth and be worthy of your respect. I condone all your calls for a picture on a clients back, I hope you will be kind in your 
judgement as suits are made from cloth not cut from stone. 

This a relatively light to medium weight cloth at 10oz spun from luxury fine wool and cashmere from Harrisons of Edinburgh, the price was 5k including taxes and cloth.
Made as seen in the videos, please note I also hand sewed the shoulder seam and sleeve seam as well as the lining, the collar and lapels.
All that one would expect on Savile row.

This was the final fit, the client was due back after six weeks for final inspection. He has since started running everyday and would like to wait 
until he has dispelled all excess body weight before have the garment taken in at no extra cost.

Thank you for taking the time to view my work and videos and look forward to contributing to this forum.

Best wishes,
Rory Duffy

Collar looks loose on right side.

Sleeve pitch is off or back sleeve balance is too long.

Some waviness in upper sleeve area when looking head on.
post #165 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Collar looks loose on right side.

Sleeve pitch is off or back sleeve balance is too long.

Some waviness in upper sleeve area when looking head on.

Thanks for your feedback, will take a look at that when the client returns for his final check fit. Would agree that the neck may need to be crookend, as for the others not sure I agree. This is usually four to six weeks after final delivery, to allow the suit to settle. I believe RA also offers this service.
In this case the client has informed me he has lost so much weight the suit needs to be reduced. So I need to take the sleeves off, collar off, remove the back to reduce the forepart sides and back sides.
Perfection takes it's time.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC