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Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC - Page 2

post #16 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post

I see nothing in anything in anything I've written that could be described as hyperbole except for the remark that Rory's training was "more in-depth than anyone here"--a statement which I more or less immediately stepped back from in the very same post, and clarified in those following.

I'm writing only as someone currently in the process of having a coat made by Rory, and interested enough in sharing the details on the process to make videos I hope you will all soon be enjoying (and no doubt scrutinizing closely). I know a much more about clothes than most, much less than some. I am knowledgeable enough to be impressed by artisinal pride, passion, and pedigree in someone so young, but perhaps naive enough to be somewhat breathless in its promotion, and for that I apologize.

As I noted earlier, this is small trade, and perhaps more cutthroat than anyone would like: this forum is certainly filled with threads more or less dedicated to trashing reputations. This is not one of them. Rory's a great guy who's become a good friend, and I'm simply doing what I can to get the word out about the quality of his work, notwithstanding his youth or "hopping around." My apologies in absentia to Len or anyone else if in so doing they feel I have maligned them or their work (not that Len pays any attention to SF or the #menswear blogosphere, because I've asked him). I simply believe that the relatively large bespoke market of NYC can easily accommodate a newcomer of Rory's skill and pedigree, at his price point, and that our bespoke culture is that much more robust for it.

I think the hyperbole was the statement (bold added by me): "Rory offers a rare opportunity for men here to develop their own easy and direct relationship with a Savile Row master tailor and be confident that the work they'll get is on par with the finest Row houses at a much lower cost". Frankly, it seems difficult to make that statement if you have not yet received your garment and you haven't tried a pretty good number of Savile Row makers. I don't think anyone is bashing Rory and I agree that more is better. But it is important to present things in a fair and measured manner.
post #17 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I think the hyperbole was the statement (bold added by me): "Rory offers a rare opportunity for men here to develop their own easy and direct relationship with a Savile Row master tailor and be confident that the work they'll get is on par with the finest Row houses at a much lower cost". Frankly, it seems difficult to make that statement if you have not yet received your garment and you haven't tried a pretty good number of Savile Row makers. I don't think anyone is bashing Rory and I agree that more is better. But it is important to present things in a fair and measured manner.

Point taken.

For what it's worth, I'm basing my appraisal on examination of other finished garments of Rory's (and other bespoke tailors). It's my (and his) sincere hope that the videos of my own coat's construction, once complete, will offer an unvarnished, detailed look into his process and product. I don't want anyone to have to take my word for it.
post #18 of 207
Thanks for videoing. I'm very much looking forward to seeing the results and hearing your thoughts. I thought a great deal of using him when he was with David Reeves and never ended up pulling the trigger.
post #19 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post

As I noted earlier, this is small trade, and perhaps more cutthroat than anyone would like: this forum is certainly filled with threads more or less dedicated to trashing reputations. This is not one of them. Rory's a great guy who's become a good friend, and I'm simply doing what I can to get the word out about the quality of his work, notwithstanding his youth or "hopping around." My apologies in absentia to Len or anyone else if in so doing they feel I have maligned them or their work (not that Len pays any attention to SF or the #menswear blogosphere, because I've asked him). I simply believe that the relatively large bespoke market of NYC can easily accommodate a newcomer of Rory's skill and pedigree, at his price point, and that our bespoke culture is that much more robust for it.

for whatever it is worth, you have certainly piqued my interest in Mr. Duffy's trade, and I do agree that we are all better off with more options rather than less. for better or worse, effusive praise is often viewed quite skeptically around here - and I am just as guilty of that as anyone - but I for one wasn't trying to suggest anything disingenuous on your part.
post #20 of 207

Any sense of his pricing?  Location?

 

It sounds like another good option in NYC. 

 

A good bespoke tailor with a lower price point than the others sounds promising...

post #21 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennius View Post

Any sense of his pricing?  Location?

It sounds like another good option in NYC. 

A good bespoke tailor with a lower price point than the others sounds promising...

Rory charges $5k for a 2pc. He currently works from his home workshop in Williamsburg, and travels to meet clients throughout the metro area.

CORRECTION: Apparently the David Reeves connection was nominal. Michael Andrews is the NYC outfit Rory's worked most closely with. No connection with Pisano.
Edited by Montauk - 3/14/13 at 10:40am
post #22 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post


CORRECTION: Apparently the David Reeves connection was nominal.

Nominal? Seriously? Rory didn't in fact make the 6000 stitches line that David sold? That is contrary to what David posted on this board on multiple occasions.
post #23 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Nominal? Seriously? Rory didn't in fact make the 6000 stitches line that David sold? That is contrary to what David posted on this board on multiple occasions.

It's my understanding that the David/ Rory venture never really got off the ground. I recently asked Rory about this myself; he wasn't aware that pictures of himself were still being used by David to promote his operation on this forum, and he's since requested that they be taken down. They now have been.

Again, I don't know David and have no beef with either him or his work. Just clarifying the issue as far as Rory is concerned.
post #24 of 207
$5,000 seems a lot for a suit cut by a guy working out of his apartment and outsourcing the production. Rory may even be higher than the base price Savile Row guys like A&S or Dege. I know Steed and the off-row guys like KHL are less. That doesn't mean Rory is a bad value - it is worth what you think it is worth, and if it is a unique product, then there are no comparables - but it seems high for a startup.
post #25 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post

It's my understanding that the David/ Rory venture never really got off the ground. I recently asked Rory about this myself; he wasn't aware that pictures of himself were still being used by David to promote his operation on this forum, and he's since requested that they be taken down. They now have been.

Again, I don't know David and have no beef with either him or his work. Just clarifying the issue as far as Rory is concerned.

Whoa. Thanks for the info.
post #26 of 207

5K (likely plus materials) does seem a bit high for a guy from BK establishing himself in the city.  Pierre of Paris is well below that.

 

Then again, he lives in Williamsburg so he must be a good craftsman.

post #27 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennius View Post

5K (likely plus materials) does seem a bit high for a guy from BK establishing himself in the city.  Pierre of Paris is well below that.

Then again, he lives in Williamsburg so he must be a good craftsman.

$5k includes materials.

I would recommend that anyone interested in coming to their own conclusions about Rory's skill and value go ahead and contact him to arrange a consultation.
post #28 of 207
I'm not sure where the NY guys pencil out these days, but Andersons is $5K (3,200 pounds), with several other well regarded tailors below that: Welsh & Jefferies, Steed, Benson & Clegg, Meyer & Mortimer etc. etc.. I can't comment on Rory's skill and will happily accept Montauk's word for it, but I would hardly call him economical.
post #29 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

I'm not sure where the NY guys pencil out these days, but Andersons is $5K (3,200 pounds), with several other well regarded tailors below that: Welsh & Jefferies, Steed, Benson & Clegg, Meyer & Mortimer etc. etc.. I can't comment on Rory's skill and will happily accept Montauk's word for it, but I would hardly call him economical.

Don't take my word for anything. I should've waited until the videos were done before posting anything so his work could speak for itself.

Logsdail and Fioravanti start at $6500, so Rory's economical compared to that. Like a lot of people in the trade, Rory tends to steer clear of the peanut gallery that is SF, but I think there are a lot of guys here who know what they're talking about, and who might be interested in learning about (if not patronizing) a new bespoke tailor. Maybe Rory is asking too much. In any case, it's useful feedback and I'll pass it on.
post #30 of 207
Just to make my position clear.

Rory hasn't made for me for about a year. I have not been promoting or implying to anyone in that time that I have been working with him when I have not. The photos you refer to are from a long dormant Flickr account that I forgot about and a few photos put on style forum (maybe 5?). I removed the Flickr when it was brought to my attention. As you know on Style forum posts can not be deleted past a certain point by posters. I contacted Fok who kindly took them down.

Many of us have a past on the internet, theres lots of pictures and interviews with me online from when I worked at Duncan Quinn for example. I didn't think it was an issue, when it was brought to my attention that it was, I complied with Rory's wishes.

The David Reeves brand is 4 years old now and produces more Bespoke suits every month. I Always have, and will continue to support and work with, the best artisans possible to produce my product locally. If anyone would like to see any of my bespoke pieces there are some good examples on my blog or they can come to my shop at Union square and take a look in person.

Best,

Dave.
Edited by David Reeves - 3/14/13 at 3:24pm
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