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HOF: Men's fashion web sites - Page 2

post #16 of 71
A.Harris, that was an extensive list. I have a question regarding your auctions though: you list some "Sartoria" trousers and claim that they are comparable to the top-of-the-line Incotex "Satoriale". How do you come about that comparison?? I own several Incotex "Satoriale" and from your images, the pants don't compare - i.e yours does not have the curtained waistband, nor the handstitching at the pockets, fly, waistband,etc? The only thing I see that is similar is the multiple buttons at the waistband (the V-split too but that is also a feature of Incotex's Formal line), and the sealed pocket.
post #17 of 71
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I have a few to add: Church's seconds online A comparison of british and italian tailored chlothes Men's articles at Ravistailor - some old, some new J.D. Erickson's website No garanties on the quality of those... Just something my favorites list remembered for me. B
This is great.  Thank you for sharing all this.  I especially enjoyed reading Mr. Erickson's essays.  Fantastic.
post #18 of 71
Thank you - hope you can waste some time on these sites as I did. I just happened on to them with extensive googling on slow evenings. Erickson's site is a joy to read, it's full of information and the best is that his passion for clothes (and food) really shines through his writing. Great HOF topic . BH
post #19 of 71
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Selected sites from my link list: Makers/Labels Castangia
Here is another website for Castangia: Castangia /Mr Sweden
post #20 of 71
Quote:
I have a question regarding your auctions though: you list some "Sartoria" trousers and claim that they are comparable to the top-of-the-line Incotex "Satoriale". How do you come about that comparison?? I own several Incotex "Satoriale" and from your images, the pants don't compare - i.e yours does not have the curtained waistband, nor the handstitching at the pockets, fly, waistband,etc? The only thing I see that is similar is the multiple buttons at the waistband (the V-split too but that is also a feature of Incotex's Formal line), and the sealed pocket.
The pants I am selling do have picking at the fly, pockets etc. It is done by machine but I believe that Incotex does their's by machine as well - I have a booklet here from Incotex detailing the differences between the "Sartoriale", the "Formale" and the "Informale" lines. It does not claim hand-picking as a feature of the Sartoriale line. In my experience, short of Kiton, Brioni and the like, all the picking you see on good trousers is done by machine. You are right about the curtained waistband. Perhaps I was in error in claiming equivalency to Incotex Sartoriale. On the other hand, these trousers are low-rise and slim and I'm not sure that a curtained waistband would be beneficial. Also, they are casual trousers and it is rare to see this level of detail in casual-wear. In any event, they are very nice and are at least close in quality to Incotex Sartoriale.
post #21 of 71
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Here is another website for Castangia: Castangia /Mr Sweden
Thanks for this. I hadn't seen the new site yet. I'm a big fan of Castangia, in fact, I just picked up a beautiful blazer by them today.
post #22 of 71
Quote:
Originally posted by A.Harris: The pants I am selling do have picking at the fly, pockets etc. It is done by machine but I believe that Incotex does their's by machine as well - I have a booklet here from Incotex detailing the differences between the "Sartoriale", the "Formale" and the "Informale" lines. It does not claim hand-picking as a feature of the Sartoriale line. In my experience, short of Kiton, Brioni and the like, all the picking you see on good trousers is done by machine. You are right about the curtained waistband. Perhaps I was in error in claiming equivalency to Incotex Sartoriale. On the other hand, these trousers are low-rise and slim and I'm not sure that a curtained waistband would be beneficial. Also, they are casual trousers and it is rare to see this level of detail in casual-wear. In any event, they are very nice and are at least close in quality to Incotex Sartoriale.
I am comparing my Incotex Satoriales to my Kitons and Rotas: the stitching is done by hand on all three (I check by looking at the reverse side). The little booklet that you mention that comes with the pants don't mention everything, the Incotex book does. As for being low rise and slim fit, most of my Incotex are, from the informal to the Satoriale. Although in the U.S, they may offer a different cut/model, as many manufacturers do. BTW, if they are casual pants, why do they have suspender buttons?
post #23 of 71
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BTW, if they are casual pants, why do they have suspender buttons?
Good question - I was wondering that myself. I have no idea.
post #24 of 71
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I am comparing my Incotex Satoriales to my Kitons and Rotas: the stitching is done by hand on all three (I check by looking at the reverse side). The little booklet that you mention that comes with the pants don't mention everything, the Incotex book does. As for being low rise and slim fit, most of my Incotex are, from the informal to the Satoriale. Although in the U.S, they may offer a different cut/model, as many manufacturers do.
Fair enough. You have more experience with the Incotex Sartoriale pants than I do - they are pretty rare where I live. I'll edit the auctions to reflect that the quality of my "Sartoria" pants is between the Incotex "Formale" and "Sartoriale" lines.
post #25 of 71
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Originally posted by A.Harris: Fair enough. You have more experience with the Incotex Sartoriale pants than I do - they are pretty rare where I live. I'll edit the auctions to reflect that the quality of my "Sartoria" pants is between the Incotex "Formale" and "Sartoriale" lines.
Have you heard of a brand called MABITEX? I think that it would compare quite well with Valentini. It is quite well known hereabouts and they make very nice pants with similar detailing to Incotex.
post #26 of 71
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BTW, if they are casual pants, why do they have suspender buttons?
Good question - I was wondering that myself. I have no idea.
Braces do not make a pair of trousers dressy. Most pants were held up by braces until around 1893. Look at old photos of workers on a job site and you'll see lots of braces holding up pants. Andy
post #27 of 71
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Originally posted by Andy: Braces do not make a pair of trousers dressy. Most pants were held up by braces until around 1893. Look at old photos of workers on a job site and you'll see lots of braces holding up pants. Andy
Yes that's true, but today no-one would wear casual pants with suspenders, so the question still remains why?
post #28 of 71
Don't know if someone else has already posted, but this is also an impressive shoemaker from Parma where everything is produced in-house (no outside contracts): Alexander & Nicolette - http://www.alexandernicolette.it And all of you have forgotten about Gravati. http://www.gravati.it/ --- though I doubt if the site is updated at all and I don't think it shows what they really do.
post #29 of 71
Here's a link to the text of Alan Flusser's Clothes and the Man http://www.fashionmall.com/flusser_b...x_current.html
post #30 of 71
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Yes that's true, but today no-one would wear casual pants with suspenders, so the question still remains why?
T4phage: Have you never been in a Home Depot or Lowe's?  Half of the contractors wear braces (some clip on..) with jeans, and Dickies. And why do firemen wear red suspenders?  To look more dressy?   Andy
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