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The Shirt Jacket Thread - Page 2

post #16 of 37
3/12/13 at 11:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Except it has the lapel and collar of the first photo in this thread (the safari jacket made by Panico). The back has a half belt and inverse box pleat. I think the inverse box pleat was a mistake, looking back. If I could do it over again, I would have swapped that out for an action back or maybe just go plain. But it's still a great jacket and I hope to get more.

Yea. I'm not sure about the box pleats.

They were amenable to your idea of an action back (the inverted pleat down the middle, or the bi-swing?) on a shirt?

Inverted pleat illustration here --

http://www.rapha.cc/content/uploads/timesuit.jpg
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post #17 of 37
3/12/13 at 12:19pm
Thread Starter 
By inverted box pleat, I mean the inverted pleat you see on the back of that Rapha jacket. By action back, I meant more the bi-swing design.

And yes, Chang was willing to do the pleat. I haven't asked about the bi-swing, but I don't think that'll be a problem. I'm just not fully sure I want to do it, though I like how the inverted pleat right now allows more movement. I think I can achieve the same degree of movement with a bi-swing, but get a cleaner looking back.
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post #18 of 37
3/12/13 at 12:32pm
What did you get your shirt-jackets made out of? Wool? Linen?

Did you get bellow pockets on yours?

Any idea what that cream number (pic 2) is made out of? I like it. Has a colonial-esque however, but looks good. Can see myself pairing it off with tan trousers and a panama hat.
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post #19 of 37
3/12/13 at 12:48pm
Thread Starter 
Mine's made from a blue linen from Solbiati. Though I think W Bill and Brisbane Moss has some really nice options. Slewfoot introduced me to the Moss stuff. It's a bit more loosely woven and textured than the few linens I've seen from W Bill, but theyre really nice and sponge-y.

The two bottom pockets on mine are bellowed.

The second cream jacket by Panico is made from cotton. Cotton drill, if I remember correctly. It was truly fantastic.
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post #20 of 37
3/12/13 at 1:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Mine's made from a blue linen from Solbiati. Though I think W Bill and Brisbane Moss has some really nice options. Slewfoot introduced me to the Moss stuff. It's a bit more loosely woven and textured than the few linens I've seen from W Bill, but theyre really nice and sponge-y.

The two bottom pockets on mine are bellowed.

The second cream jacket by Panico is made from cotton. Cotton drill, if I remember correctly. It was truly fantastic.

I understand the term Spalla Camica, but they are still jacket sleeves. see where the seams are. down the back of the sleeve.

Where did you get Solbiati Linen. They produce fantastic linen!!!
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post #21 of 37
3/12/13 at 2:58pm
A number of years ago GetSmart posted pictures of cool shirtjacket he had Jantzen make to his specifications. If I were a more adept searcher or less selfish and lazy I'd find them for you.
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post #22 of 37
3/12/13 at 5:06pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

I understand the term Spalla Camica, but they are still jacket sleeves. see where the seams are. down the back of the sleeve.

Where did you get Solbiati Linen. They produce fantastic linen!!!

That's great to hear they get the Carl stamp of approval. I'm not an expert on fabrics, but they do seem like nice linens. Mine came from Ascot Chang. I simply asked if they had some blue linen appropriate for a shirt jacket, and they sent two big swatches, both from Solbiati. One a slightly dark French blue and the other navy. I choose the first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawyerdad View Post

A number of years ago GetSmart posted pictures of cool shirtjacket he had Jantzen make to his specifications. If I were a more adept searcher or less selfish and lazy I'd find them for you.

Thanks LD. I'll see if I can't find it.
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post #23 of 37
3/12/13 at 7:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I've been thinking about how ideal shirt jackets are for casual weekend wear, so I thought I'd start a thread on them. Maybe we can talk about where to purchase good ready-to-wear models, what details we like, the most ideal fabrics, special bespoke pieces people are working on, etc.

I'm thinking about commissioning two more shirt jackets from my shirtmaker - either two in tweed or one in moleskin and one in tweed - so that they'll be ready in time for fall. A bit undecided on the materials and whether a Ghillie collar or lapeled design might be better. Anyone have thoughts?

Note, I'm defining shirt jackets here broadly. I'd include these, even though some might lean more towards safari jackets





These ones are definitely safari jacket styles, quite like them myself. I like jackets with four symmetrical pockets. I think they're often called leisure jackets, or leisure suits if they have matching pants. Very popular in the 1970s...remember Leisure Suit Larry?

Here's one in the Chums catalogue..

30 GBP, machine washable, 100% pure polyester. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif And is described as "safari jacket".
http://www.chums.co.uk/.ALDON-CLASSIC-SAFARI-JACKET_MA166.htm
Would be interesting to know if they're actually making this garment, or they found a warehouse full of NOS ones from circa 1978. Could be the latter.
Edited by MikeDT - 3/13/13 at 2:13am
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post #24 of 37
3/13/13 at 11:22am
I actually just ordered two shirt jackets from Carl (Shirtmaven).

My mom (who's an antiques dealer and buys and sells a lot of textiles) bought some gorgeous old checked wool flannel. Sort of like a smaller version of a tablecloth check, one in cream and red and one in cream and blue.

I thought about something like this Pendleton:



but ending up going with something like this, but with a less sporty, more upright collar:



Like DieWorkwear mentioned, I find this kind of thing really useful... it's something to wear when you want to have a finished, layered look, but you don't want to have the formality of a coat or coat and tie.
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post #25 of 37
3/13/13 at 12:30pm
Thread Starter 
That looks really great, Jesse. By more upright collar, do you mean like the kind of collar you'd find on a shirt, with a collar band?

Any other details on the design? I really like how those bottom pockets have been designed in the second photo you posted.

Speaking of Pendleton, last year they re-released their popular Topster model from the 60s. Slightly different from their basic shirt jacket, which I think many people are most familiar with.




Edited by dieworkwear - 3/13/13 at 2:33pm
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post #26 of 37
3/13/13 at 4:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

I understand the term Spalla Camica, but they are still jacket sleeves. see where the seams are. down the back of the sleeve.
yes they are jacket like sleeves
but that was not your initial critique:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

......
The shoulder of a shirt Jacket is set like a shirt. those are both set like jackets.
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post #27 of 37
3/13/13 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungAmerican View Post



but ending up going with something like this, but with a less sporty, more upright collar:



Like DieWorkwear mentioned, I find this kind of thing really useful... it's something to wear when you want to have a finished, layered look, but you don't want to have the formality of a coat or coat and tie.
i don;t understand
your definition of
'finished... look'
these look like something
a logger would wear
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post #28 of 37
3/14/13 at 1:46pm
Thread Starter 
Pendletons are definitely more of an American thing, and not for everyone. I have an overshirt by them. I admit I hardly wear it - maybe just a couple of times in the year, and always in the fall with jeans - but it can look nice in certain contexts.

I recently bought this Patrick Ervell shirt jacket, which is somewhat similar, but less lumberjack-y. The wool is loosely woven and feels a bit rough. Inside has a cotton quilted lining, which isn't something I ever would have thought for a bespoke piece, but can now see it being a nice feature on certain patterned tweeds. Other details include cupro sleeve linings, two chest pockets, and MOP buttons.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






I'm intrigued by the two bottom pockets on the second Pendleton Jesse posted, and wonder if there might not be other fabrics that this design could work with.
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post #29 of 37
3/18/13 at 1:07pm
Thread Starter 
A few more shirt jackets for inspiration.






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post #30 of 37
3/18/13 at 5:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

i don;t understand
your definition of
'finished... look'
these look like something
a logger would wear

you sm likee a classee guy bt i gess im not?

oh welll i will justt have to mddle thru somehoww in my logger cloze frown.gif
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