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Anna Matuozzo - A walk-through of my bespoke shirt purchase in Napoli. - Page 18

post #256 of 262

Let's see pictures with the shirts on.  I want to see how a(n almost) perfect shirt fits! at least as best I can from pictures on a computer screen.

post #257 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

I have been today again on Mattuozo's house.

Sher and her two daughters are very kind. We talked about our common friends here,my friend who is a tie maker for ex-Borrelli might be booked by her and she liked the pockettsquares i do a lot, ad i liked the ones she makes.

I also handled your 330 fabric and talked about Ms. Hirsh who she said has a super taste for clothes and very expertice.

I only got the mobile phone so can't upload pics. This is dedicated to a poster who says i do not exist...

She is located close to the USA embassy, at 50 meters of the sportive port on one of the best areas as always are the USA embassies.

You are so lucky living in Napoli, with both Anna and great pizza nearby!

I had Neopolitan pizza for lunch on Wednesday (Quattro Formaggi with Gorgonzola ) and it was great!

Lucky you!smile.gif
post #258 of 262
And you are lucky to have the high taste to enjoy Anna's shirts and Riva fabrics.

I have been told that handmade shirts came back to fashion 15 years ago and on the 60,70,80s all were made machinely made in Naples but i do not know until next week i see old owners and ask.

Do you know if Anna did by hand while she was on Borrelli and Rubinelli? She told me Mariano did 12.000 shirts in one year 30 years ago but i think i understood a zero extra.

Edit, sorry i meant Rubinacci not Rubinelli.
Happy weekend
Edited by SartodiNapoli - 3/16/14 at 8:47am
post #259 of 262
For the sake of not creating another false myth, there is a distinction between the traditional home base bespoke shirtmaking Neapolitan tradition and RTW maker seeking to make a shirt made in Naples.

I can assure the readers that The traditional bespoke maker would do many "ricami" or hand details, often because they did not have the tools (read hand felling foot on a sewing machine) to do otherwise, as explained in my post dedicated on Neapolitan shirts, and that I have seen shirts from the 60's to nowadays always having at least hand felled armscye, collars, buttonholes and attached buttons.

Regards
post #260 of 262
Nice, this is what i thought myself.

What i have been told is that Finamore presented the shirt we know today as industrial with handfinishing with hand buttonholes, shoulder etc by hand 15 years ago and then all came back imitating.

But asking to know if is a lie or not.

I guessed that the bespoke small shirtmakers did by hand in Naples as the horribly made in Madrid,Burgos shirt always did by hand for over a century buttonholes etc but with ugly looking.

The same Kiton passages that can do easily done by machine but some do by hand as the side thread, sleeve side thread etc that a few do have been always made by hand on the bespoke places or this came lately by a fashion hype?

I lack of the historical information and every local tells me a different story so i got no clue.
post #261 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

And you are lucky to have the high taste to enjoy Anna's shirts and Riva fabrics.

I have been told that handmade shirts came back to fashion 15 years ago and on the 60,70,80s all were made machinely made in Naples but i do not know until next week i see old owners and ask.

Do you know if Anna did by hand while she was on Borrelli and Rubinelli? She told me Mariano did 12.000 shirts in one year 30 years ago but i think i understood a zero extra.

Happy weekend

I expect that she learnt by hand...I've only been having shirts made by her since 2009 so I don't really know - I think you did hear one zero too many!smile.gif
post #262 of 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

For the sake of not creating another false myth, there is a distinction between the traditional home base bespoke shirtmaking Neapolitan tradition and RTW maker seeking to make a shirt made in Naples.

I can assure the readers that The traditional bespoke maker would do many "ricami" or hand details, often because they did not have the tools (read hand felling foot on a sewing machine) to do otherwise, as explained in my post dedicated on Neapolitan shirts, and that I have seen shirts from the 60's to nowadays always having at least hand felled armscye, collars, buttonholes and attached buttons.

Regards

I thought that the Neaplolitan style just involved more handwork ?smile.gif
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