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Streamlined Shoe Wardrobe - Page 12

post #166 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I recognise that second pair and they are not burg

lol8[1].gifplain.gif

Same shoe, different lighting.
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post #167 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:08am
Thread Starter 
it is? because the second pair look my shoes
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post #168 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:13am
Yup, both my EG Inverness on the 888. Top pics taken outdoors and bottom taken indoors.

I will say that those black stitch caps you have are awesome and what I think of when I think, black stitch caps. I tried to get close with the EG Chelsea but hadn't had much occasion to wear them sadly.
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post #169 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:15am
Thread Starter 
I have G&Gs that look just like that but they are brown. I posted pics of them many years ago.
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post #170 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:16am
Here are the shots I took for the debate as to whether austere wings are lighter than actual overlaid wings:




I bought those burg Inverness from Saks via member agold. When my wife brought them home the box was tattered but the shoes were perfect.
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post #171 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:19am
You once posted a pic of some bal boots and the pose is emblazoned in my memory. There are only like 3 people who know what I mean.

I was trying to find the pic of the black pair but this is the pose I was talking about:



I think those are yours, too. First time I'd ever seen boots posed this way. Funny what we remember...
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post #172 of 250
3/8/13 at 12:58pm
I would (for a business wardrobe) go:

Black captoes
Black punchcaps
Brown captoes
Brown punchaps
Brown (suede) half-brouge (medallion)
Brown (suede) penny loafers


Switch black punchcaps for brown boots with a commando sole for overall usability.
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post #173 of 250
3/8/13 at 1:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post


you might say it, but it's not true.


Duly noted.  We just need a common set of language to identify different shoe designs, from stitch caps to imitation full brogues.

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post #174 of 250
3/8/13 at 1:24pm
Thread Starter 
The trade has a common language, the customers seldom use it (or need to) however.
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post #175 of 250
3/8/13 at 2:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

The trade has a common language, the customers seldom use it (or need to) however.

Perhaps you can help me out here Manton.

On my blog I have a section that outlines all of the men's shoe styles that I am aware of (http://oldleathershoe.com/wordpress/?p=173). It includes pictures and definitions of over 50 styles, and I would like it to be as accurate as possible.

I believe I understand what defines a quarter brogue, semi/half brogue, a (full) brogue, an austerity brogue, and a blind brogue, but I don't have a definition of a punch cap. Could you please explain what the difference is between a punch cap and a quarter brogue, and semi brogue. An image would also be great by the way. biggrin.gif
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post #176 of 250
3/8/13 at 9:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

The list:

1) Black stitch caps. For funerals, job interviews, Important Meetings, and whenever you must be the ne plus ultra of CBD
2) Brown punch caps. The ultimate suit shoe, gorgeous and goes with virtually everything; could sub this one for a brown half or full brogue
3) A thick-soled blucher or longwing in brown textured calf or burg shell. Think the foo shoe, ed's Dinelackers, JL Russell, or one of those Vass $hitkickers. Perfect for any fall/winter odd jacket and good with most fall/winter suits
4) Tan monks. Good for summer suits or odd jackets, wearable the rest of the year
5) #8 shell or mink suede loafers. Dark enough for a blazer, grays and a white shirt but also colorful enough for day; better than lace-ups for most no-tie outfits
6) Tobacco suede oxford: goes with all suits from Labor Day to Memorial Day; wear it with odd jackets as long as I don't see you

 

Great list! I've got everything except tan monks (forgive the Woodlore shoetrees) - chestnut is about as light a shade as I like:

 

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post #177 of 250
3/9/13 at 3:13am
I'm going out on a limb here. I actually don't like brogueing, I don't like most derbies, I don't like penny or tassel loafers. Hence, my basic six would be:

3 pairs of oxfords: black, dark brown and mid-brown suede (the latter one I will wear with nearly anything, nearly any time).
1 pair of tan monks
2 pairs of boots. In my case: mid-brown jodhpurs with leather soles and suede chukkas with dainite soles.
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post #178 of 250
3/9/13 at 3:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

-Calf should never be burg; burg is for shell

That's quite harsh. I'm not a big fan of shell, and I see nothing wrong with my burgundy calf shoes. In fact it's the most versatile colour. In fact, here's a two-shoe wardrobe that can be stretched to any occasion:

- Black calf captoe ofxfords.
- Burgundy calf captoe derbies.

I really think that the rule that oxfords are necessary with suits/inappropriate with odd jackets is obsolete.
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post #179 of 250
3/9/13 at 6:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenjay View Post


Perhaps you can help me out here Manton.

On my blog I have a section that outlines all of the men's shoe styles that I am aware of (http://oldleathershoe.com/wordpress/?p=173). It includes pictures and definitions of over 50 styles, and I would like it to be as accurate as possible.

I believe I understand what defines a quarter brogue, semi/half brogue, a (full) brogue, an austerity brogue, and a blind brogue, but I don't have a definition of a punch cap. Could you please explain what the difference is between a punch cap and a quarter brogue, and semi brogue. An image would also be great by the way. biggrin.gif

 

According to John Lobb St James black/white catalogue from 1939, both punch cap and stitch cap are considered plain oxfords.  There's no quarter brogue in their catalogue.  And JL "invented" the semi-brogue.

 

According to Manton, quarter brogues includes additional broguings along the vamp outside of the punched cap.  But in Men's Ex, sometimes they do classify some punch caps as quarter brogues.  And there's always JL Phillips II that rests between punch cap and quarter brogue.

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post #180 of 250
3/9/13 at 6:14pm
Thread Starter 
I'm not saying burg calf is wrong. I'm just saying it should be.
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