On Swelled Edges: When Are They Best Used? - Page 2

When working by hand, I guess it's possible that some people may use a running stitch on some parts (the AMF etc. stitch is a running stitch), I was taught that it is a back stitch everywhere.

I doubt it is ever a running stitch if sewn by hand. There are these relatively long stitches on the underside that can snag on things. With a backstitch, any damage to the stitch remains local. With a running stitch, you'd have to re-do the entire pick stitching.

I guess with swelled edges it is necessary to maintain the full thickness of the seam allowances. It is customary to "stage"/"step" the seam allowances to make for thin edges. This requirement is a big danger, because coatmakers oftentimes work reflexively/on autopilot and would step the seam allowances only to recall later that the coat is meant to have swelled edges.

^Thanks for your answers

Backstitch is also easier to do and more precise, my doubt born because I rarely seen the classic overlapping in the underside of backstitch in lapels and flaps.

also pictures found on Jefferyd blog confirm this, for example here:





Or maybe I am making confusion with terms, how do you call the stitch above?

Thanks

Not necessarily- you would still have the effect.

That is probably a backstitch- you only get the overlap on fine cloth. Also depends on the angle of insertion of the needle. But now we're getting a bit too esoteric, I think.

I agree Sorry to have bothered you, thanks for your answer.

I am only a self-taught who like to alter his own clothes,
I shortened sleeves in a jacket some days ago and I had to redo all the impuntura and I used the running stitch, so the reason of my curiosity.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
But now I stop, the thread is for another purpose, many thanks.
Edited by alexSF - 3/6/13 at 12:13pm

Basically, always get this on anything casual. And anyhting with patch pockets. But I repeat myself.

I always do.

Very clear and helpful esplainin.  Just what I was looking for.

The impuntura on your coat was a running stitch because it was almost certainly done with a Complett machine. And though the flaps posted above look like they might be a running stitch, they were actually back stitched.

Yes the original impuntura was surely done with complett machine, I replicated it in the same place using the original little marks (left by the washing process used for the garment finishing)

However I just tried to do a backstitch there and you are totally (and obviously) right, the backstitch in a similar layers of fabric doesn't show the typical overlapping.
I fell in error having used it only for thin fabrics, so I could have been used the proper backstitch and not the wrong running stitch.
Another thing learned!

Many thanks for you kind help.
Edited by alexSF - 3/6/13 at 3:21pm