Looking for input from the pros re 'CMT'?

I am in need of another workhorse suit. Standard, Gray, Two Button, Double Vented. Appropriate for anything from an interview to a... whatever

The three best I own are LS Mens, base line fabric, Navy Blue (my go to suit, despite some possible fit issues), Jantzen, gray with blue pinstripes (good, but somehow the LS mens is just more comfortable), (I also have a Chan which gets me compliments when I wear it, but something is wrong with the armholes (too low?) and I have not been able to adequately communicate this to Patrick, plus it is a brown plaid), anyway...

I am thinking about another LS mens, but I am also considering Mr. Ned because he may be able to do more for my frame than LS's sack style (large shoulders and upper body with no gut, the anti-brooks brothers).

Here is the problem, I am pretty cheap. LS Mens is in my comfort zone, and Mr. Ned, at $900 plus tax, may be just out of it. I am thinking of going to Tip Top and picking up some fabrics to have Ned make a suit, which I understand may reduce my costs, but ... I wouldn't know an H&S 140s 9oz from burlap bag... am I asking for trouble by trying this? Does anyone have advice?

As another matter, what does CMT stand for?

What does LS cost in total for a suit?

CMT is Cut Make Trim. Essentially the normal service a tailor provides, but using the customer's own material.

It stands for "Cut, Make, Trim." Yes, you are asking for trouble if you're trying to cut costs without a reasonable understanding of what constitutes quality fabric. It is possible to save money (probably on the order of 10 or 15%) but that is not worth the risk of commissioning a workhorse suit in a low-quality fabric that will not last. If I were you, I would try CMT only if I could get outside confirmation of the quality of the fabric.

btw, you should add the "CMT" tag to this thread since there are a fair number of questions on this topic.

Originally Posted by new obsession

Click to expand...

what does CMT stand for?

Cut, make and trim. (Though I agree with Despos that it should be CTM)

Is there also something like: measure, fit, something else: MF_ , or whatever?

Tip Top has several killer solid grays in stock right now, so act fast. Go and ask for Woodehouse and they will show you a ton of stuff. The very best piece I saw today was a heavyish sharkskin, probably about 13/14 ounce, but not marked. Forget about 140s and all that jazz. This stuff doesn't feel like Charmin, but then again you're not going to wipe your @$$ with it, and it will tailor superbly and last forever.

Expect to pay $50-$60 per yard. If you are an average size, you will need 3.5 yards.

I haven't used any of the firm mentioned for CMT but MTM tends to require more fabric than bespoke. I'm probably a 44 regular and Greenfield wants 4.5 yards of cloth from me for a two piece summer suit with high waisted trousers (4 yards for conventional belted trousers).

So I'd get four yards to be safe, were I you.

What does LS cost in total for a suit?

Click to expand...

If memory serves, and it usually does, it was just over 700 including hand pick stitching and working button holes.

Thanks Manton, I will go have a look.

I will say, though, that I am probably more partial to a lighter weight fabric, as I tend not to like warmer suits (that logic is proper, right?). I also wonder if sharkskin is what I am looking for. I need this suit to work for interviews meetings, etc, and to me sharkskin, like nailhead, always seems a little off.... for an interview/meeting that is.

How are Lora Piana fabrics? I understand they are having a sample sale in a few days.

Well, they have a lot of lighter stuff too. Lots of frescos and mohairs. You're not going to want the latter for an interview suit but the former might work.

BTW, sharkskin is not necessarily loud. The Woodehouse stuff I saw today definitely was not.

The best advice I can give on how to judge cloth is 1) Don't get sucked in by Supers envy. If it has a number, your default position should be to shun it. That's not to say all Supers are bad, but a number should raise red flags. Supers from good mills can be quite good, but there is almost never any reason to go above 120s. 2) Don't assume that because a cloth feels smooth, it must be good. The truer test of good cloth is "body" or "guts." It gets so that you know it when you feel it. It's a combination of resiliency, spring, strength, and depth. It's easier to judge the guts of heavyweight cloth, but guts are arguably more important for the light stuff.

LP almost never does it for me. I can't stand the suitings. The cashmere overcoatings can be great. You are way better off with a piece of Woodehouse or Martin & Sons from Tip Top. And it will cost a lot less.

Originally Posted by new obsession

Click to expand...

How are Lora Piana fabrics? I understand they are having a sample sale in a few days.

Also, those Loro Piana bolts, even on the last day of the sample sale, are still much more expensive than cloth from Tip Top. Some of the cashmere jacketing material is great, but it is pricey, and not what you need.

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

Well, they have a lot of lighter stuff too. Lots of frescos and mohairs. You're not going to want the latter for an interview suit but the former might work.
Do you remember if there were any patterned frescos or if they were all solids? I need to add a nice fresco to the unused stack of fabric in my closet.

dah328, I heard somewhere that the pile in your closet is becoming a fire hazard, I would be happy to help you get rid of some of it. Perhaps we should start with whatever is Charcoal Gray, light-weight and surprisingly wrinkle resistant, I hear those are the most flamable.

On the other hand, should you feel the urge to school a neophyte, let me know when you are going....

Originally Posted by dah328

Click to expand...

Do you remember if there were any patterned frescos or if they were all solids? I need to add a nice fresco to the unused stack of fabric in my closet.

There were some patterns, and a lot of stripes. My closet is also looking sadly bare. I need to go back.

One of the reason that LS and Ned are good value, is how they buy fabric. I Know Izzy buys lots of end bolts at great prices.
Ned buys 1/2 and full pieces so gets a much better price then if he was buying suit lengths. For something basic. Ned will have something in stock that will fit your needs.
there is no reason to travel to Tip top unless you are looking for something a little different.

Greenfield wants more fabric then needed to avoid problems and possible dammages in the fabric.

Carl