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How do I get the straight-line drape on trousers?  I ask because I wear all of my pants too tight and too low.  I am considering a made to measure suit and  I want to make sure a have a ballpark idea of how pants should fit so I can correct any glaring mistakes while being measured.  How much room should i have around the hips, thighs, knees? How do I determine how wide the hem should be to fit properly around my shoe? Thanks!