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Skoaktiebolaget – Carmina, John Lobb, Enzo Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin’s, Gaziano & Girling, Rubinacci – Official Thread - Page 1472post #22067 of 243106/22/16 at 9:32pm
Would like to share some shoe porn with you guys.
Incoming GMTOs from EB.
Vitello Giamaica / Hidro Lino.
Single leather soles with light brown sole edge.
Chukkas. (Thanks @RogerP for organising this!)
Side laced balmoral oxford.
Vitello Meleze / Hidro Jasper.
Single leather with Vibram sole.post #22068 of 243106/23/16 at 12:55ampost #22069 of 243106/23/16 at 2:27ampost #22070 of 243106/23/16 at 4:08ampost #22071 of 243106/23/16 at 4:31ampost #22072 of 243106/23/16 at 4:44amQuote:Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson
Yeah, but what I tried to say was that it's no difference for a cobbler with a hand welted shoe, if the sole stitch is made by machine. To put it simple, for all the shoes you sell a cobbler resole them the same way, be it any of the Goodyear welted brands or EBs Blake/Rapid or their and SCs hand welted shoes. They all have a sole stitch made by machine, and that's the only thing a cobbler touch when doing a regular resole (both with full and half).
If we then go on to the times when the welt has to be replaced, if it's worn down or if there's so little left of it after the edge has been sanded down with regular resoling (if we take the EB example they have quite wide welts, they probably take a few regular resoles before the welt needs to be changed), then one have to hand welt with Bonafé, and in fact most cobblers hand welt also Goodyear welted shoes when exchanging the welt since most don't have a Goodyear machine. If you already have the holes and a holdfast, be it in a canvas rib or an insole, it's easier than doing it from scratch. Go down to your upcoming neighbours at Bäckmans or to Mano, they can do resoles with hand welting if needed. But it probably will be more expensive than for Bonafé to do it. But a regular resoling is usually cheaper at the cobbler, and as said above that's normally all that's needed.
A factory resole is a different thing from a cobbler resole, and there it's at least for Goodyear welted shoes easier to exchange the welt in general, it goes faster, even if it's not really needed. That's the con with factory resoling, that they often tend to make some new holes in the upper when they do the welt seam, even if they try to match the previous holes.
Hi Ingevaldsson, if I understand it correctly, are you saying that it's better to have re-soling done by a local cobbler rather than at the factory? Even for premium shoes? There's been much discussion about re-soling but not from this perspective. Thanks.post #22073 of 243106/23/16 at 4:57amQuote:
No, not necessarily, at least not since most shoes aren't being resoled more than the 3-4 times that you can be certain it can at a factory (note, it can be more, it's just a generalisation). And there are several pros of doing factory resolings as well. My view, and know many others as well, is that the perfect combination is to do the standard resoles at your cobbler, and every other or so send them back to the factory. that way is probably the solution that gives you the best looking shoes and the longest possible life span (once again, if you generalise things). The problem here is that many factories don't accept shoes sent back for refurbishment which have been touched by a "third party", ergo a cobbler.post #22074 of 243106/23/16 at 5:17ampost #22075 of 243106/23/16 at 6:06ampost #22076 of 243106/23/16 at 6:37amQuote:Originally Posted by CLTesquire
Nice selection @ThunderMarch
. I'm looking forward to the chukkas arriving. Also, if that's how Meleze looks in real life those future (but not too far in the future) captoe Meleze oxfords are going to be great.
The chukkas do look incredible.
And I must say I think we made a good choice with meleze. These side laces are my second pair in meleze and it's a very rich, nice shade of dark brown.Quote:Originally Posted by peppercorn78
Awesome new additions, @ThunderMarch! You are the reigning chukka champ!
Haha, not at all. Roger and CLT were the ones who hatched this chukka gmto. I was merely searching for a nice pair of brown chukkas that could be a go-to pair in wet weather apart from my tetburys.post #22077 of 243106/23/16 at 9:18amThread Starterpost #22078 of 243106/23/16 at 10:45ampost #22079 of 243106/23/16 at 11:29ampost #22080 of 243106/23/16 at 11:47amQuote:Originally Posted by Leaves
We have at least three styles on the 804 coming this fall.
The 946 and 74945 lasts are both easy to fit and to me they represent the pinnacle of last design; the balance and form is basically executed to perfection. But I'm aware that a lot of people like the 804 last and that's why we're expanding our range on this last. I do agree it's a very, very nice last!
The 804 is very elegant and classic. And available in wide (yay):
Very comparable to reputable English brands:
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