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Skoaktiebolaget – Carmina, John Lobb, Enzo Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin’s, Gaziano & Girling, Rubinacci – Official Thread - Page 88

post #1306 of 23850
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stmaier View Post

I finally get to join the Edward Green club...Galway and Alderley in dark oak...MTOs through Skoak...

Wear in good health. I only regret I did not have the time to photograph them before we sent them out. Please send us a few pictures if you would allow us to use them in our blog.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon86 View Post

Bump for this MTO

Seems to be good interest for the 5 eyelet chukka on rain last in a medium/dark brown calf, scotch grain/hatch grain.
With dainite or similar

Can skoaktiebolaget put up a MTO? We had 4-5 interested in a darker shade hatch grain

I would prefer to do them in Antique Brown Grain, because I don't think Carmina does the dark brown Hatch Grain. And I would prefer to evaluate Hatch Grain a little more before we roll out more pairs, I heard AS had problems with their Hatch Grain although I think this was an unfinished version, Carmina finishes they Hatch Grain themselves. We've had no reports of any issues from any of our clients.
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Leaves what Carmina last is closest to the EG202?

In style or fit? In style it's kinda hard because Carmina does not actually have that very round, blunt last. Maybe Oscar but 202 is more blunt and bulby.
post #1307 of 23850
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post



I would prefer to do them in Antique Brown Grain, because I don't think Carmina does the dark brown Hatch Grain. And I would prefer to evaluate Hatch Grain a little more before we roll out more pairs, I heard AS had problems with their Hatch Grain although I think this was an unfinished version, Carmina finishes they Hatch Grain themselves. We've had no reports of any issues from any of our clients.
In style or fit? In style it's kinda hard because Carmina does not actually have that very round, blunt last. Maybe Oscar but 202 is more blunt and bulby.

Interesting news, I was waiting for those AS problems to blow over before placing a hatch grain order with Carmina.

post #1308 of 23850
Thread Starter 
I just added Burgol shoe polish to our web shop, I know a lot of you guys have wanted to try this Swiss manufacturer out as a comparison to Saphir and other premium polish brands. What sets Burgol apart from Saphir Medal d'Or (I've used this product for several years) is that I find it easier to get a high shine faster with Burgol.




I've also added our long awaited restock of Carmina belts to the store.






post #1309 of 23850
Is the last one cognac?
post #1310 of 23850
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spicycho View Post

Is the last one cognac?

I think Carmina calls it Cognac Calf in English which can be confusing so we call it tanned calf. In Spanish it's called Vegano Cuero.
post #1311 of 23850
I see that Bonafè's homepage describes goodyear construction as "Hand stitiching" and "The hand made shoe by definition":

http://www.enzobonafe.com/english/good-year-workmanship.html

That is oxymorons as I understand it.

Do you know if Bonafè is genuinely hand welted - like Vass, St. Crispins, various bespoke etc. - or Goodyear welted?

Perhaps the term "Goodyear" has become so pervasive as a sign of quality that even hand welted shoes has to be described this way.
post #1312 of 23850
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

I see that Bonafè's homepage describes goodyear construction as "Hand stitiching" and "The hand made shoe by definition":

http://www.enzobonafe.com/english/good-year-workmanship.html

That is oxymorons as I understand it.

Do you know if Bonafè is genuinely hand welted - like Vass, St. Crispins, various bespoke etc. - or Goodyear welted?

Perhaps the term "Goodyear" has become so pervasive as a sign of quality that even hand welted shoes has to be described this way.

They are hand welted it's just the italians that call it goodyear. The reason is that "everyone" knows that goodyear means quality but few know what hand welt means.
post #1313 of 23850
Thanks, I suspected as much.
post #1314 of 23850
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

I see that Bonafè's homepage describes goodyear construction as "Hand stitiching" and "The hand made shoe by definition":

http://www.enzobonafe.com/english/good-year-workmanship.html

That is oxymorons as I understand it.

Do you know if Bonafè is genuinely hand welted - like Vass, St. Crispins, various bespoke etc. - or Goodyear welted?

Perhaps the term "Goodyear" has become so pervasive as a sign of quality that even hand welted shoes has to be described this way.

They are genuinely hand welted as can be seen in this video I shot in the Bonafé factory. They have a Goodyear production line system, just like EG, G&G or Carmina but where the Goodyear welting machine should be there are two old dudes hand welting. The amount of time that goes into just hand welting is staggering compared to a machine welted shoe. Just as Frank says, the Goodyear welted terminology is used widely in Italy whether the shoes are hand or machine welted, a bit confusing really.
post #1315 of 23850
Thanks Leaves. Nice video. Great that you are offering these shoes in Scandinavia.
post #1316 of 23850

There's something wonderfully appropriate about hand welting being done by "two old dudes". :)

post #1317 of 23850
That's a great vid, thanks for posting that nod[1].gif
post #1318 of 23850
Just wanted to thank the SkoAB team for helping me with Carmina/G&G size comparison and for pointing me in the right direction concerning a Carmina model they've stocked preciously.

Didn't place an order at their website this time as they had run out of the model and size I was looking for, but will pay a visit to the store in Stockholm late January. I'm looking for colors close to Vass Antique Cognac and/or Oxblood and hope to find what I'm looking for at SkoAB.

Thanks once again.
post #1319 of 23850
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post


They are genuinely hand welted as can be seen in this video I shot in the Bonafé factory. They have a Goodyear production line system, just like EG, G&G or Carmina but where the Goodyear welting machine should be there are two old dudes hand welting. The amount of time that goes into just hand welting is staggering compared to a machine welted shoe. Just as Frank says, the Goodyear welted terminology is used widely in Italy whether the shoes are hand or machine welted, a bit confusing really.
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 

 

How is the sole attached to the welt? by machine or hand? Obviously the video shows the welt being attached to the insole/uppers but is the sole attached by hand as well? 

post #1320 of 23850
Thread Starter 
Off to Pitti, back next weekend!
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Skoaktiebolaget – Carmina, John Lobb, Enzo Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin’s, Gaziano & Girling, Rubinacci – Official Thread