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Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin's, Gaziano & Girling - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1509

post #22621 of 23830

If anyone gets some of those DOAK Thorpe in 10F and doesn't work out please let me know!

post #22622 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Oh bummer!  Too wide?  Extra glad you didn't get dinged, I bet.

It's a touch wide. I'm still thinking about it. Can defiantly wear them but still on the fence.

No duties or tax from customs so will let go with GG shoe trees for way under retail frown.gif
post #22623 of 23830
At least try for fit with a leather sock liner.
post #22624 of 23830
^^ agree. "A touch wide" can be addressed very easily without anything that will raise an eyebrow.
post #22625 of 23830
They are defiantly insane.




Service from Patrik and team was outstanding.
post #22626 of 23830
^ So glad we're not the same size.

ps - @Skoaktiebolaget - boot addiction is starting to rear its ugly head again. Can't wait to see what you have in store.
post #22627 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post

If anyone gets some of those DOAK Thorpe in 10F and doesn't work out please let me know!

we need 12 step program for quitting shog[1].gif
post #22628 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by supern0va View Post


Thanks @ThunderMarch! count me in!
Some texture on the leather seems interesting. Maybe hatched grain like the G&G hove in skoak's store, if not inca or lama leather? Ok for brown.

Last wise, would 804 or 74945 work? I prefer 804, fits me very well.

And for soles, I have been wanting something in millerighe sole but have not had a chance. Would it work for this shoe?

Lastly, 270 or 360 chained norvegese? If we do 270 we may be able to couple it with a 100% handwelted bombe waist so it's slim at the waist. Something like this (though different maker):

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beargonefishing View Post


I would be in on almost any makeup with the norvegese/bombe waist combo.

 

Hey guys, quite a flurry of activity going on over the past few hours with regards to the split toe make-up. 

I'll try to put things together a bit. 

 

Thanks @Dslondon and @walkthetalk I have noted your preference and it seems you both would prefer a model without norvegese. 

I do already have 2 other interests in a norvegese model and so this would most likely be our preference. 

The good news is, @budapest12 and @CanadaCal also seem to have similar ideas as you....

Perhaps the 4 of you could work together on a model that would suit you best?

Good luck for your GMTO!

 

@supern0va @beargonefishing

I understand that you guys are open to the idea of a make-up in norvegese.

The thing is this. If we are talking about a 270 deg norvegese, only the heel area will exclude the norvegese stitching / construction. The waist will still be constructed with norvegese. As such, I think a 270 deg norvegese automatically excludes the possibility of a Bombe waist. In norvegese construction, the uppers are turned outwards and "stitched down". You will need a definite amount of "available" oustole for this. 

The photo you've attached of Antonio's shoes feature chained norvegese only at the forepart, transitioning to a blind welt at the waist. 

This construction is fairly complex and only available as his Aurum option because the construction of a blind welt requires quite a bit of effort. His Argentum beveled waist is not a true blind welt. As such, I do not think Bonafe executes this. 

I am wondering if you guys are open to just having the 270 norvegese? If yes, do let me know and I'll see if we can put something together?

With regards to the millerighe, I think it's fine. The other 2 chaps in the GMTO will probably be ok with some form of a rubber sole. I find the millerighe not exceedingly bulky, and very comfortable to wear. 

 

@tdes81

Good luck for your make-up, sounds like a sweet GMTO.


Edited by ThunderMarch - 8/31/16 at 7:38pm
post #22629 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

Hey guys, quite a flurry of activity going on over the past few hours with regards to the split toe make-up. 
I'll try to put things together a bit. 

Thanks @Dslondon
 and @walkthetalk
 I have noted your preference and it seems you both would prefer a model without norvegese. 
I do already have 2 other interests in a norvegese model and so this would most likely be our preference. 
The good news is, @budapest12
 and @CanadaCal
 also seem to have similar ideas as you....
Perhaps the 4 of you could work together on a model that would suit you best?
Good luck for your GMTO!

@supern0va
 @beargonefishing

I understand that you guys are open to the idea of a make-up in norvegese.
The thing is this. If we are talking about a 270 deg norvegese, only the heel area will exclude the norvegese stitching / construction. The waist will still be constructed with norvegese. As such, I think a 270 deg norvegese automatically excludes the possibility of a Bombe waist. In norvegese construction, the uppers are turned outwards and "stitched down". You will need a definite amount of "available" oustole for this. 
The photo you've attached of Antonio's shoes feature chained norvegese only at the forepart, transitioning to a blind welt at the waist. 
This construction is fairly complex and only available as his Aurum option because the construction of a blind welt requires quite a bit of effort. His Argentum beveled waist is not a true blind welt. As such, I do not think Bonafe executes this. 
I am wondering if you guys are open to just having the 270 norvegese? If yes, do let me know and I'll see if we can put something together?
With regards to the millerighe, I think it's fine. The other 2 chaps in the GMTO will probably be ok with some form of a rubber sole. I find the millerighe not exceedingly bulky, and very comfortable to wear. 

@tdes81

Good luck for your make-up, sounds like a sweet GMTO.

Thanks @ThunderMarch for explaining. How about a closely cut welt? See pic below. I think there were earlier discussions that EB can do this.

Is 270 degree chained norvegese preferred to 360?

Can I check what last and material/colour you are considering for the make? Last is more important for me, 946 doesn't work for me.




post #22630 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by supern0va View Post


Thanks @ThunderMarch for explaining. How about a closely cut welt? See pic below. I think there were earlier discussions that EB can do this.

Is 270 degree chained norvegese preferred to 360?

Can I check what last and material/colour you are considering for the make? Last is more important for me, 946 doesn't work for me.




 

Hey there, thanks for your reply. 

 

With regards to a more closely cut outsole, we're fine with that, definitely workable. 

Also, with regards to the comparison between 270 and 360 deg norvegese. 

There are a couple of aspects to what you might see as "preferable". 

 

1) Stylistic preference

So this is just based on what you want aesthetically. Do you want more or less of it. Right now, one of the other guys is looking more to 360, but I think both are ok with us. 

 

2) Construction merits

In a handwelted pair of shoes, the "holdfast" and inseaming typically runs along 270 deg, and does not extend around the heel. Typically, even for some bespoke makers, at the heel, the uppers are attached to the insole via nailing. 

In a 360 deg norvegese, the insole and uppers are attached via hand stitching, all the way round the shoe. 

Looking at this construction method, you might say a 360 deg norvegese is favourable. 

post #22631 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

Hey there, thanks for your reply. 

With regards to a more closely cut outsole, we're fine with that, definitely workable. 
Also, with regards to the comparison between 270 and 360 deg norvegese. 
There are a couple of aspects to what you might see as "preferable". 

1) Stylistic preference
So this is just based on what you want aesthetically. Do you want more or less of it. Right now, one of the other guys is looking more to 360, but I think both are ok with us. 

2) Construction merits
In a handwelted pair of shoes, the "holdfast" and inseaming typically runs along 270 deg, and does not extend around the heel. Typically, even for some bespoke makers, at the heel, the uppers are attached to the insole via nailing. 
In a 360 deg norvegese, the insole and uppers are attached via hand stitching, all the way round the shoe. 
Looking at this construction method, you might say a 360 deg norvegese is favourable. 

Thanks @ThunderMarch. I'm ok with either 270 or 360 degree chained norvegese.

Am more concerned about the last and to a lesser extent colour/material. Any sense what the preference is? For me, 804 last is preferred. Prefer hatch grain but am open to other material.
post #22632 of 23830
Quote:
Originally Posted by supern0va View Post


Thanks @ThunderMarch. I'm ok with either 270 or 360 degree chained norvegese.

Am more concerned about the last and to a lesser extent colour/material. Any sense what the preference is? For me, 804 last is preferred. Prefer hatch grain but am open to other material.

 

Hey there, 

Actually at this point, it seems like the consensus is more towards the 74945. 

FWIW, IMO, the 74945 does look similar to the 804. The 804 is more of an almond toe, the 74945 is more of a classic round but not bulbous like the 363MOD. The 74945 looks fairly elegant, and is a versatile last. It does fit differently from the 804 though. 

I take my normal size in the 74945 (UK8.5) but take UK8 for the 804. 

The 804 is more elongated, and has a more generous toe box and instep. I'll be honest though. I have the 804 in dressy / formal oxfords, and also more casual brogues, as well as a jodhpur. But I think, IMO at least, the 804 would probably look best with dress shoes and might not be the best fit for this particular model.

 

With regards to the uppers, 

I know that Bonafe has done stuff with hatch grain, but I am not sure if this can happen via a SkoaB GMTO. @Leaves might be able to clarify. 

The current preference for uppers would be Betis Castagna or the Inca 6127 or Inca 4340. 

 

 

Sorry, by the way, @bloodyj13 I just realised you'd replied as well. But I cannot quite see what emoticon you were using. 

What are your preferences for this GMTO?


Edited by ThunderMarch - 9/1/16 at 12:10am
post #22633 of 23830
Quote:

I just gave kinda "im in" icon in my last post......

For the construction, I'm open to all types of choice so far mentioned. For the last, 74945 is perfect! upper, I prefer some dark colour therefore inca 4340 or Betis Castagna is not that.....

 

 

Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post
 

 

Hey there, 

Actually at this point, it seems like the consensus is more towards the 74945. 

FWIW, IMO, the 74945 does look similar to the 804. The 804 is more of an almond toe, the 74945 is more of a classic round but not bulbous like the 363MOD. The 74945 looks fairly elegant, and is a versatile last. It does fit differently from the 804 though. 

I take my normal size in the 74945 (UK8.5) but take UK8 for the 804. 

The 804 is more elongated, and has a more generous toe box and instep. I'll be honest though. I have the 804 in dressy / formal oxfords, and also more casual brogues, as well as a jodhpur. But I think, IMO at least, the 804 would probably look best with dress shoes and might not be the best fit for this particular model.

 

With regards to the uppers, 

I know that Bonafe has done stuff with hatch grain, but I am not sure if this can happen via a SkoaB GMTO. @Leaves might be able to clarify. 

The current preference for uppers would be Betis Castagna or the Inca 6127 or Inca 4340. 

 

 

Sorry, by the way, @bloodyj13 I just realised you'd replied as well. But I cannot quite see what emoticon you were using. 

What are your preferences for this GMTO?

post #22634 of 23830
@ThunderMarch: thanks for calling me! Count me in!
My preference will be 74945 last, vitello or betis leather and thin rubber sole. I am flexible with other details
post #22635 of 23830
@ThunderMarch - ok with 74945. Actually looks pretty good with inca - see pic. But prefer the inca 6127.



So to confirm current make up:

74945 last
360 or 270 degrees Norvegese chain welted, closely cut (actually looking at more pics 360 may be the better choice)
Millerighe sole
Uppers - I prefer inca 6127 of the options u listed. If hatchgrain is available sienna or dark brown are both ok with me.
Can I request flat laces? smile.gif
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