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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin's, Gaziano & Girling - Official Affiliate Thread
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Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin's, Gaziano & Girling - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1489

post #22321 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by phsiao08 View Post
 

Hey all - I want to hear some opinions of cordovan versus calf leather on this forum. Obviously, everything on Skoaktiebolaget is pretty damn quality. But is a calf-G&G really worth more than say a cordovan carmina if we're looking at captoes? Am I thinking too narrowmindedly on the issue? 

 

The real answer to your question is there a difference between a calfskin Carmina and a calfskin GG. 

 

So as stated above: yes, and yes. 

post #22322 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

@EUtroll
 @walkthetalk
 @tdes81
 @bloodyj13
 @supern0va
 
Thank you guys for all your interest. 
Of course, @Leaves
 has already spoken and I will respect SkoaB's wishes to be a little more patient and wait till the current batch has been completed, 
Nonetheless I will keep you guys in the loop when the time comes to do this. 
Please keep me in the loop as well.
post #22323 of 23674

Maiden voyage of my pair of vintage cherry St. James IIs that just came in thanks to Skoak and and the Brexit. :)

 

post #22324 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by phsiao08 View Post
 

Like the answer. In your opnion, why is that the case? 

 

It's a fair question and one that deserves a more detailed response than I have time to offer.

 

I'll try to give you the point form version:

 

1) No one element wholly defines the value of a pair of shoes.  Not the construction method, not the material for the upper.  Not the style or design.

2) Shell isn't "better" than calf - it is merely a different material with a different source and different properties - some arguably better and others arguably worse when applied in the making of footwear.  It is certainly more rare and more costly - but that's about it.

3) Carmina is an excellent manufacturer - I own several pairs of their shoes and boots.  I also own a handful of G&G.  Carmina is not in the same league - period.  When all aspects informing value are considered - design, style, last, quality and consistency in construction, quality of materials (not just the uppers) etc - G&G is clearly ahead.  Adding shell doesn't elevate Carmina anywhere near the G&G level, much less beyond it.  And yes, I own Carmina shell.

4) Nothing wrong with the purchase of Carmina shell if that is what you want - I certainly have no regrets on the pairs I own and have owned.  But if you think that shell alone makes it the equal of G&G you are kidding yourself.

 

IMO.

post #22325 of 23674
Shoutout to Gabriel who was super responsive today on email when I proved that I don't know how to use the internet. I entered wrong billing information. Twice. eh.gif

A few awesome pieces in the odd stock section for anyone interested. Kopped a pair of Carminas for a steal. These Bonafe shoes look lovely for anyone who's a 10.5 UK

http://us.skoaktiebolaget.se/collections/odd-stock/products/manolo-x-skoaktiebolaget-by-enzo-bonafe
post #22326 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

It's a fair question and one that deserves a more detailed response than I have time to offer.

I'll try to give you the point form version:

1) No one element wholly defines the value of a pair of shoes.  Not the construction method, not the material for the upper.  Not the style or design.
2) Shell isn't "better" than calf - it is merely a different material with a different source and different properties - some arguably better and others arguably worse when applied in the making of footwear.  It is certainly more rare and more costly - but that's about it.
3) Carmina is an excellent manufacturer - I own several pairs of their shoes and boots.  I also own a handful of G&G.  Carmina is not in the same league - period.  When all aspects informing value are considered - design, style, last, quality and consistency in construction, quality of materials (not just the uppers) etc - G&G is clearly ahead.  Adding shell doesn't elevate Carmina anywhere near the G&G level, much less beyond it.  And yes, I own Carmina shell.
4) Nothing wrong with the purchase of Carmina shell if that is what you want - I certainly have no regrets on the pairs I own and have owned.  But if you think that shell alone makes it the equal of G&G you are kidding yourself.

IMO.

Well points taken. How does Carmina suede compare to the other above mentioned makers? I find Carmina suede extraordinary.
post #22327 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post


Well points taken. How does Carmina suede compare to the other above mentioned makers? I find Carmina suede extraordinary.


I have to agree here.  I have some Enzo Janus suede, and some Alden suede, and I feel like the Carmina suede is miles ahead.  Just so silky and soft, it just glows.

post #22328 of 23674

Gentlemen, some more Enzo porn for you guys......

 

Chelsea boots, 74945 last, Vitello Nero, Vibram topy sole

 

 

 

 

 

 

Button boots. Vitello Bergeronette with Reh lama shaft. 2102B last. Vibram topy sole. 

 

 

 

 

 

Brown captoe oxfords with hidden seam. Vitello Meleze. 804 last, Single leather sole. 

 

 

 

Finally, I found this quite amusing. 

 

post #22329 of 23674
@ThunderMarchmay I ask how's the difference in fit of the 804 last compared with the 74945 last and the 2102b last please? And is the 804 last more elongated than the 2102b last?
post #22330 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmw View Post

@ThunderMarchmay I ask how's the difference in fit of the 804 last compared with the 74945 last and the 2102b last please? And is the 804 last more elongated than the 2102b last?

 

I am normally a size UK8.5 in almost all lasts.

For the 804 (my all time favorite RTW last), it's a little elongated with a generous toe box and instep. I take UK8 and this is the best fitting RTW last I have ever put my feet in. 

 

I have the 74945 in UK 8.5 for a chelsea boot and a chukka. While still retaining a fairly elegant look, it feels very generous overall, and once again it has a pretty high instep and possibly an even wider toe box than the 804. But it's not as elongated as the 804. I think once again, UK8 might be better for me. 8.5 feels a little loose. 

 

The 2102B is another elongated last but with a narrower toe box, and comparable instep to the 804. It has a sleeker profile than the 74945 as well, and is a square toed last. Since this was a button boot, I went down a half size. It fits ok, albeit a little snug. I would not be able to wear thick socks with this. 


Edited by ThunderMarch - 7/21/16 at 9:57pm
post #22331 of 23674
Many thanks for the detailed reply.

When you say 74945 last has wider toe box than 804 last, I suppose you are comparing UK8.5 of 74945 last and uk8 of 804 last?

I own both 74945 and 2102b last and agree with your comments. Considering the 804 last for a button boots and wondering if I should size down half and whether should up with width at the same time.
post #22332 of 23674
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmw View Post

Many thanks for the detailed reply.

When you say 74945 last has wider toe box than 804 last, I suppose you are comparing UK8.5 of 74945 last and uk8 of 804 last?

I own both 74945 and 2102b last and agree with your comments. Considering the 804 last for a button boots and wondering if I should size down half and whether should up with width at the same time.

 

I have a pair of balmoral boots in the 804 last, size UK 8.5. So I am comparing 8.5 to 8.5

The 74945 feels a little more generous comparatively. 

But do take it with a pinch of salt..... when you're comparing something fairly narrow to something even narrower, your feet readily discern the difference. But when comparing something wide, to something even wider, it becomes much more of an approximation.

post #22333 of 23674
LOL Mr Thunder March. Wonder if they're on SF or IG
post #22334 of 23674
That's useful information. Thanks alot.
post #22335 of 23674
One last question if I may...how does the height of the toe box and vamp area compares between 74945 and 804 last? I find the 74945 toe box fits me in terms of width but too much room above my feet in the vamp area.
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