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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin's, Gaziano & Girling - Official Affiliate Thread
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Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin's, Gaziano & Girling - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1472

post #22066 of 23725
Any chance that additional stock of the Enzo Bonafé Wingtip Adelaide "Manolo X Skoaktiebolaget" style in Etrusco Calf will become available? (Specifically in 10UK?)
post #22067 of 23725

Would like to share some shoe porn with you guys. 

Incoming GMTOs from EB. 

 

Spectators.

804 last.

Vitello Giamaica / Hidro Lino.

Single leather soles with light brown sole edge.

 

Chukkas. (Thanks @RogerP for organising this!) 

74945 last. 

Vitello Etrusco. 

Dainite soles. 

 

Side laced balmoral oxford.

946 last. 

Vitello Meleze / Hidro Jasper. 

Single leather with Vibram sole. 

post #22068 of 23725
Those are awesome @ThunderMarch. I hope our chelsea and buttonboots arrive before the summer factory break.
post #22069 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by watchidiot View Post

Those are awesome @ThunderMarch. I hope our chelsea and buttonboots arrive before the summer factory break.

Thanks my friend.
Am definitely looking forward to those 2 pairs!
post #22070 of 23725
That's an impressive group you have inbound my friend - enjoy! I'm really looking forward to the chukkas - should prove to be very versatile.
post #22071 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

That's an impressive group you have inbound my friend - enjoy! I'm really looking forward to the chukkas - should prove to be very versatile.

Thanks Roger. It was a great idea for a gmto indeed.
post #22072 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Yeah, but what I tried to say was that it's no difference for a cobbler with a hand welted shoe, if the sole stitch is made by machine. To put it simple, for all the shoes you sell a cobbler resole them the same way, be it any of the Goodyear welted brands or EBs Blake/Rapid or their and SCs hand welted shoes. They all have a sole stitch made by machine, and that's the only thing a cobbler touch when doing a regular resole (both with full and half).

If we then go on to the times when the welt has to be replaced, if it's worn down or if there's so little left of it after the edge has been sanded down with regular resoling (if we take the EB example they have quite wide welts, they probably take a few regular resoles before the welt needs to be changed), then one have to hand welt with Bonafé, and in fact most cobblers hand welt also Goodyear welted shoes when exchanging the welt since most don't have a Goodyear machine. If you already have the holes and a holdfast, be it in a canvas rib or an insole, it's easier than doing it from scratch. Go down to your upcoming neighbours at Bäckmans or to Mano, they can do resoles with hand welting if needed. But it probably will be more expensive than for Bonafé to do it. But a regular resoling is usually cheaper at the cobbler, and as said above that's normally all that's needed.

A factory resole is a different thing from a cobbler resole, and there it's at least for Goodyear welted shoes easier to exchange the welt in general, it goes faster, even if it's not really needed. That's the con with factory resoling, that they often tend to make some new holes in the upper when they do the welt seam, even if they try to match the previous holes.

Hi Ingevaldsson, if I understand it correctly, are you saying that it's better to have re-soling done by a local cobbler rather than at the factory? Even for premium shoes? There's been much discussion about re-soling but not from this perspective. Thanks.
post #22073 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by benf View Post


Hi Ingevaldsson, if I understand it correctly, are you saying that it's better to have re-soling done by a local cobbler rather than at the factory? Even for premium shoes? There's been much discussion about re-soling but not from this perspective. Thanks.

 

No, not necessarily, at least not since most shoes aren't being resoled more than the 3-4 times that you can be certain it can at a factory (note, it can be more, it's just a generalisation). And there are several pros of doing factory resolings as well. My view, and know many others as well, is that the perfect combination is to do the standard resoles at your cobbler, and every other or so send them back to the factory. that way is probably the solution that gives you the best looking shoes and the longest possible life span (once again, if you generalise things). The problem  here is that many factories don't accept shoes sent back for refurbishment which have been touched by a "third party", ergo a cobbler. 

post #22074 of 23725

Nice selection @ThunderMarch.  I'm looking forward to the chukkas arriving.  Also, if that's how Meleze looks in real life those future (but not too far in the future) captoe Meleze oxfords are going to be great.

post #22075 of 23725
Awesome new additions, @ThunderMarch! You are the reigning chukka champ!
post #22076 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLTesquire View Post

Nice selection @ThunderMarch
.  I'm looking forward to the chukkas arriving.  Also, if that's how Meleze looks in real life those future (but not too far in the future) captoe Meleze oxfords are going to be great.

The chukkas do look incredible.
And I must say I think we made a good choice with meleze. These side laces are my second pair in meleze and it's a very rich, nice shade of dark brown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

Awesome new additions, @ThunderMarch! You are the reigning chukka champ!

Haha, not at all. Roger and CLT were the ones who hatched this chukka gmto. I was merely searching for a nice pair of brown chukkas that could be a go-to pair in wet weather apart from my tetburys.
post #22077 of 23725
Thread Starter 
^^ Awesome work guys, I love all these Bonafè GMTOs, so nice to see the amount of variety and freedom offered within their program.
post #22078 of 23725
If anyone got the gmto EB chukka in UK 9 and doesn't want them, please let me know.

Mike
post #22079 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by mockingboy View Post

If anyone got the gmto EB chukka in UK 9 and doesn't want them, please let me know.

Mike

I ordered a UK 9 and have been concerned that I may have needed a 9.5.  I'll let you know as soon as mine arrive if I need to part with them.

post #22080 of 23725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post

We have at least three styles on the 804 coming this fall.

The 946 and 74945 lasts are both easy to fit and to me they represent the pinnacle of last design; the balance and form is basically executed to perfection. But I'm aware that a lot of people like the 804 last and that's why we're expanding our range on this last. I do agree it's a very, very nice last!

The 804 is very elegant and classic. And available in wide (yay):

Very comparable to reputable English brands:

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