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Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin's, Gaziano & Girling - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1449

post #21721 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

Hmm, if the waist is not welted, that was certainly not my intention.
And also wasn't what I was led to believe, till now.
The above mentioned Bombè waist, was what I'd aspired towards.

We are sorry for any confusion but was something we learned about very recently.

post #21722 of 23807
Wait, so we paid over $500 for cemented-sole shoes?
post #21723 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

Wait, so we paid over $500 for cemented-sole shoes?

Please e-mail us for further advice. We will contact Enzo Bonafè for a full description of this construction and get back to everyone once we know more.


Edited by Skoaktiebolaget - 5/11/16 at 5:54am
post #21724 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoaktiebolaget View Post
 

Please e-mail us for further advice. We will contact Enzo Bonafè for a full description of this construction and get back to everyone once we know more.


Thanks, I'll just wait to read the clarification here. I'm guessing my pair is still at the factory at this point (I was in the second round). Thanks for looking into it for us. Great service as always.

post #21725 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post
 


Thanks, I'll just wait to read the clarification here. I'm guessing my pair is still at the factory at this point (I was in the second round). Thanks for looking into it for us. Great service as always.


I also have an order for this model, and it would be a very big disappointment  if I were to learn these are glued.  I'll keep an eye on this here as the last thing you guys need is the same email received from several people before you have feedback from EB.

post #21726 of 23807
Ditto for me. I'll hold off until SkoaB posts an update on here.
post #21727 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

Hmm, if the waist is not welted, that was certainly not my intention.
And also wasn't what I was led to believe, till now.
The above mentioned Bombè waist, was what I'd aspired towards.


It is not glued. It is blake stitched at the waist. Bonafe calls it a "donkey back" construction.

post #21728 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by doorsncolours View Post
 


I also have an order for this model, and it would be a very big disappointment  if I were to learn these are glued.  I'll keep an eye on this here as the last thing you guys need is the same email received from several people before you have feedback from EB.


It is not glued, it is blake stitched at the waist to slim it down. They call it "donkey back" construction. It blends a hand welted front with a blake stitched and beveled waist that goes from double to single thickness to slim the profile. I have a boot with this construction and it looks quite good.

post #21729 of 23807
how does that affect the inseam at the waist then?
post #21730 of 23807
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatisgross View Post


It is not glued, it is blake stitched at the waist to slim it down. They call it "donkey back" construction. It blends a hand welted front with a blake stitched and beveled waist that goes from double to single thickness to slim the profile. I have a boot with this construction and it looks quite good.

Yeah. Although The Donkey Back actually refers to the beveled sole, no the construction. TBH I never personally heard of Bombe before, Bonafè has always just referred to it as Japanese, becuase it's normally only Japanese retailers who asks for this type of construction.
post #21731 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatisgross View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

Hmm, if the waist is not welted, that was certainly not my intention.
And also wasn't what I was led to believe, till now.
The above mentioned Bombè waist, was what I'd aspired towards.

It is not glued. It is blake stitched at the waist. Bonafe calls it a "donkey back" construction.
i agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoaktiebolaget View Post

This construction is not called Rombè actually. This kind of slim waist was originally made for the Japanese market and has a different name for their hand welting process since it is only hand welted in the front of the sole (not under the waist). Bombè (as supposed to Rombè) on the other hand is a 270 degrees hand welting process where the sole edges near the waist of the soles are rounded (either on one side or both, depending on how the customer prefer it to look).

So customer can have either this Japanese waist or the Bombè. It is just that we have mixed up the terms with Bonafè regarding these details.

GABRIEL
i bought a
bonafe shoe in japan
several years ago
when i needed
a quick pair.
teh morandi model
from beams: <----delishus sauce in blue
23a1aec73be3fdb9200262c931c213d81b255e86.jpg?1319612055

i got bored with
it and decided to have
a looky inside

fj0XZfA.jpg

iuV2zYK.jpg

zkcZM0P.jpg

blake inside
underneath teh
sock

TpbAbCf.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

https://youtu.be/kkb8ppySZN4
......
^
video at about
2.27 shows
teh blake stitching
at teh waist

it is an easy
and cheap way
(liek pegging)
to get the appearance
of a handwelted
blind waist

if bonafe
had to make a
blind waist by
hand
it would cost
a lot more

there is always
a reason
for teh pricing

btw
teh "bombe"
finishing at teh
waist is only
making teh
sole at teh waist
rounder
it will not
make a blind
waist
it is a different
tool head
post #21732 of 23807
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post

Yeah. Although The Donkey Back actually refers to the beveled sole, no the construction. TBH I never personally heard of Bombe before, Bonafè has always just referred to it as Japanese, becuase it's normally only Japanese retailers who asks for this type of construction.

Actually, on the contrary, Massimo has actually told me that the donkey refers to the construction at Bonafe and not only the beveled waist. The donkey back is a 2 construction style to them. Rombe is just the slimming and rounding of the edges.
post #21733 of 23807

I shouldn't go into more specifically how Bonafé does it in this case, I just looked at the pics a bit fast (didn't realize it would cause such a discussion), as mentioned above in this case it's likely Blake stitched at the waist then, it's used by some as well though not at all as common as only glueing the waist. 

 

Either way, calm down, it's still a welted shoe. The most fundamental part of the shoe, the underside of the sole, the one you wear down and need to be able to replace easily has the welt and the sole stitch. You still call a Saint Crispin's shoe hand welted, even if they peg the waist, don't you? It's all easier and cheaper ways to make a slim waist. Many pairs go a lifetime without the need to exchange the waist part, just half soling and exchange of bottom heel parts. And if a full resole is needed, they can still do that with glued, Blake stitched and pegged waists. Of course a full hand welted blind welted slim waist would be best, but these other options work.

 

I for one would rather choose, solely looking at construction, a hand welted shoe with a glued, or Blake, or pegged waist over a Goodyear welted shoe with welt and sole stitch at the waist, for example.

 

And for what it's worth, without the glue/cement, all constructions mentioned would be quite lousy.

post #21734 of 23807

Fear, uncertainty and doubt (often shortened to FUD) is a disinformation strategy used in sales, marketing, public relations, politics and propaganda. FUD is generally a strategy to influence perception by disseminating negative and dubious or false information and a manifestation of the appeal to fear. While the phrase dates to at least the early 20th century, the present meaning of disinformation appeared in the 1970s to describe disinformation in the computer hardware industry, and has since been used more broadly.

post #21735 of 23807
The video of Bonafe's work and workshop is an attractive advertisement. I have been relatively lukewarm about trying them. However, my interest has been raised. I may well take a closer look!
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