OK, OK - I am embarrased to say, once again, I am wrong. Went over to the shop this morning and examined more closely some A/E we are working on. Sure enough, after peeling back the cork, the rim is stitched thru. I takes some looking, and unlike other shoes I've examined over the years the stitch is run thru the same wholes on the welt as the lockstitch, but they are in fact hooked thru the added on rim. Called the old man, who said no, us old guys don't consider it Goodyear when you glue on a rim, it has to be cut out of the insole to be called that. All these years he calls them ( and Alden, and the old J&M's) welted, not Goodyear welted. Funny thing is, I compared it to a Borgioli shoe that is True Goodyear Welt, and the welt has two distinct runs of stitches, while I have plenty of A/E welts theat only have one. Oh well, live and learn. VERY SORRY for any confusion. One thing I would point out, the Italian factories don't use cork like the American/British do so the construction details are much more obvious. Shoefan, my sincerest apologies - you are correct. Just a matter of symantics I suppose. I will stick with my fathers definition however. A/E, Alden, et.al. are Welted, not Goodyear Welted. Now I know why the old guy at the shop always complains about the 'crappy rims these shoes all use now'.
post #16 of 16
6/11/04 at 3:47pm